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Ty Korrigan

Broken bolt removal...

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Gonna give it a wang myself though a Facom removal set is €150.

I've watched the Youtube tutorials and think I'll stay away from the budget tool sets.

My crew is running a sweep stakes on whether I get the bolts out...

I paid a local engineering firm to remove other broken loader arm bolts a year ago and replace with hardened ones.

Bizzarely, they didn't do these which popped last week.

The peacock is in love with my Solis, I presume because of the colour.

 Stuart

 

 

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Take the rest of that plate off and dog see rabbit better. Be a piece of piss with welder and a nut then. Maybe some more heat if necessary. Easy peasy

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I have the faccom extractors they are good but not invincible, would try heat and welding as well

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20 minutes ago, swinny said:

Take the rest of that plate off and dog see rabbit better. Be a piece of piss with welder and a nut then. Maybe some more heat if necessary. Easy peasy

Not sure I can, it is the chassis the engine is bolted too.

 

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I am used to much smaller screws so use "Easy outs" and have learnt to use the best quality drills starting with a small pilot hole to get bob on centre otherwise the hole can go all over the shop - it also gives the benefit of allowing you to tap the hole out if the bolt wont shift.

If you use easy outs - don't snap it in the hole - they are hardened and won't drill out.

If you can weld, may be a better idea!

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They dont look that deep so.

 

Get a pilot for your drill you could use a pilot that you use to center holes through door handles since those bolts are not that deep in there.If its a bit too small take up the difference wrapping the pilot with insulation tape

 

Buy a couple of left hand drills, saw 3 and 4mm.

Buy a can of loctight freeze and release and a can of cutting fluid.

Buy a good center punch.

 

Get set up. Start drilling without the freeze and release, this will mark the center of the bolt. Then give it a good strong smack with the center punch on the dot made by the drill.

 

Use the freeze and release on the bolt you are working on. It really dose work. Then give it a shot of cutting compound,as you start drilling when you get about 5mm down switch to "hammer" this might release the bolt and since you are drilling in reverse the bolt will spin out.

 

If not, bring the hole up to 4mm. Set in your easyout and use the freeze and release again.

 

The trick with this job will be to know if/when you should stop and try another method. 

 

Good luck.

 

 

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7 hours ago, Ty Korrigan said:

@Mike Hill

Thank you for that.

Keep you posted.

Just ordering bits now.

  Stuart

You are welcome.

 

You need a drill pilot for door hinges not door handles as i mistakenly wrote. Most hardware shops have them.

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The other method I have seen is to shove  a piece of copper pipe down the hole, then use a welder to build up the end of the bolt till you can then get pliers on the end. The heat from the welder helps release it

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