Chainsaw Spike Bar

[Billhook]

9 hours ago, peatff said:

Your MS340 is in a better saw than the MS391 even when the bar is straight.

I am beginning to think that iis the case!

12 hours ago, Bob_z_l said:

After reading all of this and reading again....

"The saw had been damaged when a large log fell on it and bent the bar, but a replacement bar seemed to be all that was needed."

 

Are you sure the bar studs on the wonky saw haven't been damaged? if one was pulled up a bit the shoulder part might change the way the bar interacts with the spikes.

 

Only wonky cuts I ever get are from bad chains. 

 

 

Hope you figure it out. following with interest. 

I did a visual check and they seemed ok but still a possibility

As I said before I ruled out the bar and chain which is identical to the one on my 340.  We changed them over and the 340 drove the other bar and chain perfectly well,  so it is either the studs or the spikes,

Since the spikes are slightly (not that obviously) damaged and the studs seem ok, I was asking the question here, can even a small amount of damage to the spikes cause this problem,

I forgot to mention that in spite of his oiler system being checked and working, it takes very little time before his bar becomes very hot, which it does not when fitted to the 340.

Edited July 25, 2021 by Billhook

[peatff]

What gauge and pitch chain is he using ?

[Stubby]

3 hours ago, Billhook said:

I am beginning to think that iis the case!

I did a visual check and they seemed ok but still a possibility

As I said before I ruled out the bar and chain which is identical to the one on my 340.  We changed them over and the 340 drove the other bar and chain perfectly well,  so it is either the studs or the spikes,

Since the spikes are slightly (not that obviously) damaged and the studs seem ok, I was asking the question here, can even a small amount of damage to the spikes cause this problem,

I forgot to mention that in spite of his oiler system being checked and working, it takes very little time before his bar becomes very hot, which it does not when fitted to the 340.

Cut a couple of cookies with the problem saw by not engaging the dawgs/spikes  just let the weight of the saw do the work and see were it goes .

[Billhook]

1 hour ago, peatff said:

What gauge and pitch chain is he using ?

Exactly the same as mine, the two 20 inch bars and chains were bought at the same time. His bar was bent by the log and I needed a longer bar so they are identical bar and chains 

 

I will wait till he come back to work on Wednesday hopefully with a new spike and will report back

[htb]

Is it the operator?

Have you used both saws yourself or vice versa?

Sorry if already been covered.

[Rob D]

2 hours ago, Billhook said:

Exactly the same as mine, the two 20 inch bars and chains were bought at the same time. His bar was bent by the log and I needed a longer bar so they are identical bar and chains 

 

I will wait till he come back to work on Wednesday hopefully with a new spike and will report back

 

6 hours ago, Billhook said:

I am beginning to think that iis the case!

I did a visual check and they seemed ok but still a possibility

As I said before I ruled out the bar and chain which is identical to the one on my 340.  We changed them over and the 340 drove the other bar and chain perfectly well,  so it is either the studs or the spikes,

Since the spikes are slightly (not that obviously) damaged and the studs seem ok, I was asking the question here, can even a small amount of damage to the spikes cause this problem,

I forgot to mention that in spite of his oiler system being checked and working, it takes very little time before his bar becomes very hot, which it does not when fitted to the 340.

 

Really can't see this being the spikes - I would check out the more obvious issues such as 1) his drive sprocket 2) if his oiler system is checked and working then why is the bar running hot? That is not a good sign... 3) Are you 110% sure that you are both running the same bars and chains ie. exactly the same spec? 3/8 .063? 4) It's not clear how long he ran your bar and chain for.... not long if it got hot by the sounds of things. It's not a definitive test I don't think...

 

From what I notice from customers having cutting issues - they tend to worry about things they don't need to worry about - they tend not to worry about things they really really should be worrying about!

 

Not to say you're wrong in this - just putting my pennys worth in!

 

 

 

 

[Billhook]

17 hours ago, Rob D said:

 

 

Really can't see this being the spikes - I would check out the more obvious issues such as 1) his drive sprocket 2) if his oiler system is checked and working then why is the bar running hot? That is not a good sign... 3) Are you 110% sure that you are both running the same bars and chains ie. exactly the same spec? 3/8 .063? 4) It's not clear how long he ran your bar and chain for.... not long if it got hot by the sounds of things. It's not a definitive test I don't think...

 

From what I notice from customers having cutting issues - they tend to worry about things they don't need to worry about - they tend not to worry about things they really really should be worrying about!

 

Not to say you're wrong in this - just putting my pennys worth in!

 

 

 

 

You may well be right Rob.  But we carefully checked the oiler both bar off and with chain running against a board showing a line of oil being thrown out in the conventional test.

And yes it did heat up quickly.

It did not seem to want to go into the log  in the same way as the 340 .  When it did cut, there were nice big chips coming off, but then it stopped cutting and heated up I suspect because he was trying to force it a bit into the log to make it cut which twisted the saw enough to cause the friction, the twist being caused by the bent teeth.

You would have thought that the log damage when it fell on the saw would be more apparent in either damage to the, sprocket, the cover or making the cover difficult to fit if the studs had been tweaked.

It is one thing at a time at the moment and he hopefully is coming back to work on Wednesday with a new spike fitted ready for the test.  At the moment the spike is the only visible damage but I agree that I could be distracted by my theory and have missed something more obvious.

[doobin]

I'm with Rob on this. Can see the spikes possiblly curving it off somewhat, can't see it creating all that heat.

 

I reckon there's something wrong with the bar, chain or sprocket if the oiler is 100% OK. Waiting with interest to find you, I don't mind being proved wrong.

Edited July 26, 2021 by doobin

[billpierce]

Just take the spikes off and test it. Im pretty sure itll have nothing to do with them, but easy enough to test. A sharp chain and decent undamaged bar should cut without the use of the spikes.

 

Either the bar grooves are worn unevenly forcing the chain to side, or they are burred, or bar is bent. or the chain is incorrect/not sharp/not sharpened evenly/rakers need filing.

 

 

[Stubby]

33 minutes ago, billpierce said:

Just take the spikes off and test it. Im pretty sure itll have nothing to do with them, but easy enough to test. A sharp chain and decent undamaged bar should cut without the use of the spikes.

 

Either the bar grooves are worn unevenly forcing the chain to side, or they are burred, or bar is bent. or the chain is incorrect/not sharp/not sharpened evenly/rakers need filing.

 

 

Or do what I said . ( then you don't even have to take the spikes off )