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Help with firewood barn


the village idiot
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31 minutes ago, AHPP said:


That’s not comparing apples with apples. The wheels are specialist and expensive so will have been very carefully assembled, care taken to avoid water holding and rot etc, proper treatment used. Fence softwood is usually whatever crap is to hand, put through a sheep dip to lock the moisture in so you have to buy more in ten years.

The Ash SPOKES  may be shaped but are untreated and exposed to the elements, and are hardwoood as opposed to the softwood fencing. 

Do you have any evidence pressure treated softwood is immersed in a sheep dip because all the sawmills i have dealt with for the past 45 years treat pressure treated timber in a pressure treatment plant as the name  suggests.?

 

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6 minutes ago, Dan Maynard said:

I think it's unusual to use ash for cladding but it could be ok, it will only decay if it's damp. Plenty of overhang on the roof and nowhere near the wet earth.

TVI in East Anglia will have as many wet days as Les has dry ones in Wales.

I doubt that dan but why go to all the trouble of building a nice barn and use the wrong timer. Ash is not suitable for this project mate. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

When storing wood for drying (seasoning), it is essential to provide it with proper ventilation.  Thanks to this, the wood dries faster and, at the same time, prevents the development of decay processes. If you want to dry as quickly as possible, cut it into smaller parts beforehand. Wood with a smaller size shows better properties when it comes to quick drying. A good solution will undoubtedly be constructing a particular wood drying room or purchasing such a room in a container. Due to such an investment's high costs, it is recommended only to those who often dry and store wood. If your needs are not too large, do better by outsourcing drying to external entities.
Contrary to appearances, we can save a massive sum in this way. When storing wood, the most important thing is to maintain an appropriate level of moisture.  Each species is different in this respect. It is essential in firewood because the undried raw material is much less efficient in terms of its energy value and emits more harmful substances during combustion. Which has a significant impact on the cleanliness of the air. 
Put it briefly: The most important to keep it at least on the stacks as high as wooden pallets. Cannot touch the ground. Spaces between stacks the rest will be done by wind. If people can dry wood as on the picture below. Im sure your solution will work.

magazynowanie-drewna3.jpg

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7 hours ago, Philipmcnill said:

When storing wood for drying (seasoning), it is essential to provide it with proper ventilation.  Thanks to this, the wood dries faster and, at the same time, prevents the development of decay processes. If you want to dry as quickly as possible, cut it into smaller parts beforehand. Wood with a smaller size shows better properties when it comes to quick drying. A good solution will undoubtedly be constructing a particular wood drying room or purchasing such a room in a container. Due to such an investment's high costs, it is recommended only to those who often dry and store wood. If your needs are not too large, do better by outsourcing drying to external entities.
Contrary to appearances, we can save a massive sum in this way. When storing wood, the most important thing is to maintain an appropriate level of moisture.  Each species is different in this respect. It is essential in firewood because the undried raw material is much less efficient in terms of its energy value and emits more harmful substances during combustion. Which has a significant impact on the cleanliness of the air. 
Put it briefly: The most important to keep it at least on the stacks as high as wooden pallets. Cannot touch the ground. Spaces between stacks the rest will be done by wind. If people can dry wood as on the picture below. Im sure your solution will work.

magazynowanie-drewna3.jpg

Who is that for king kong 

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TVI - do you also have aspen or poplar available? I know that is a totally counter-intuitive choice but it soaks up preservative beautifully whereas treating ash only forms a coating and it does not pressure treat well either (much like spruce).

 

If you can't get something naturally durable and so are going to have to treat, it may be a better option. I am aware of at least one fairly modern barn done that way by a tree surgeon/sawmill which has held up very nicely for over 25yrs by using an oil-based preservative.

 

Alec

 

 

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3 hours ago, agg221 said:

TVI - do you also have aspen or poplar available? I know that is a totally counter-intuitive choice but it soaks up preservative beautifully whereas treating ash only forms a coating and it does not pressure treat well either (much like spruce).

 

If you can't get something naturally durable and so are going to have to treat, it may be a better option. I am aware of at least one fairly modern barn done that way by a tree surgeon/sawmill which has held up very nicely for over 25yrs by using an oil-based preservative.

 

Alec

 

 

Hi Alec,

 

That's an interesting thought!

 

We do have a lot of aspen/poplar. Not much of any great size but I can have a snout around. Milling small diameter wood for cladding would be a bit tedious I imagine.

 

Nice to see you back by the way!

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