Chainsaw Chain Brake band.. Breaking

[Mark_Skyland]

We sell quite a lot of the brake bands but then they are the same band for the 550xp mark 1 and 2 and the 560xp/562xp plus a couple of other non pro saws. It could possibly be a bad batch as a month of use on all machines doesnt sound too good tbh although I havent had any complaints on this happening this quick on the mark 2 550.

 

[Stubby]

11 hours ago, Stephen Blair said:

Yes thankfully we are different!

Chain break has never broke on me full revs, it’s a band around a drum, it would always break at just near the lower attachment point at the weakest point.

  I’ve also never had a band break in due to use I believe,  it was always lack of maintenance going by the volume of crud from neglect!

  Now I live in a drier climate I can go a month without a strip down compressor clean, when I lived on the west coast it was done almost daily by the new guy at the end of every wet day, which was often.

  

About 30 years ago I changed a band on a 3120 that I bought second hand , it came broken . A bit of a faff ( skinned knuckles ) cocking the spring again . That is the only one I have ever changed .  I know its there for a reason and I am happy about that , should there ever be a kick back , but I certainly don't snap it on after every cut or before I take a step . I don't start a saw with it on purely out of mechanical sympathy . I am 68 years old now so doing well not using one I suppose . ?

Edited September 30, 2020 by Stubby

[IronMike]

There is a fine line between over use and under use of the chain brake in my opinion. I’ve seen a lot of freshly qualified people using a saw all slamming the chain brake in at full chat. They say this is what they were taught, and another annoying habit is they all seem to run the saw at either tickover or full chat. Never in the middle, never using the throttle and feeling their way through stuff. I’ve always maintained that getting your chainsaw tickets is like passing your driving test. You learn how to do it properly after you pass!

 

Ive been working with some newish folks these last few years, and try to get them into good habits rather than bad. Using the chain brake correctly is on one of those habits. I say to folks, especially if they’re green, that they should be using it a fair deal. If they stop cutting for even a few seconds, put it on. They need to get into the habit of doing it, then once they are happy doing so, they will learn when it’s acceptable/sensible to leave it off. One lad I worked with recently, on two occasions, Had saw in hand and revved up then realised his visor wants down so took left hand off saw to flip visor down whilst chain was still running. He was someone else’s groundie but I told him straight it was very bad practice. He learned from it. 
 

But the flip side of that is I often pick up a saw to use after someone who has years of experience with them, and find the chain brake off. I always put it on when finished, and the reason why was in case someone else came up to use it after me, as it was the safest way. But like leaving your car in gear with no handbrake on perhaps? If someone else came to use it they might be miffed to find it like that? I guess it boils down to personal choices at the end. I know what I am happy with, and what I deem safe and necessary. Others have different views. 
 

I had a chain brake fail on my Mk2 550 after a few months also, so maybe some crap ones about. Prior to that, I’ve done about 2 in neck on 9 years.

[Stere]

Quote

Possibly a lot of the break coming on mid cut with kick back given the state of these trees.

This shouldn't  be happening alot unless user is very  careless?

[openspaceman]

3 hours ago, IronMike said:

There is a fine line between over use and under use of the chain brake in my opinion. I’ve seen a lot of freshly qualified people using a saw all slamming the chain brake in at full chat.

This is taught to show the brake is capable of stopping the saw from full power and only at first start of the day. I maybe do it every few weeks.

 

In dense brush I may flick the brake on before I move but generally try and move while the saw is on the opposite side of the stem. IMO the chain brake is an emergency device and not something to be used to stop the chain before moving. It is good practice to apply the brake before putting the saw down or handing it to someone (engine off) but it is something I never got into the habit of. I would advise never to move with the chainsaw in one hand and running  but if you must then flick the brake on simply because I saw one of my employees do this  and cut the backs of his fingers  on his right hand because the chain was still moving.

3 hours ago, IronMike said:

They say this is what they were taught, and another annoying habit is they all seem to run the saw at either tickover or full chat.

In fact this is how chainsaw carburettors are designed to work, mid throttle running constantly is likely to be running with mixture too weak or rich (weak mostly IME)

 

[Khriss]

Wot its worth, i will check it soon after start up. Use it several times a day, probably had 10 nasty kick backs in ten years of cutting, from memory ( i have felled a lot of big trees)  which is not too bad. Do Not use a saw with failed brake or missing catcher. K

Edited September 30, 2020 by Khriss
( had a few springs fail - no brake bands fail )

[gand]

I was told years back to let the saw run down as your nearing the end of the cut then apply the brake when you've cut through. When done right the chains already stopped and the cuts finished. 

Now that I'm working in a shop I have to say we sell loads of brake bands. (not just for the 550, but more often than not) Usually to firms that employ quite a few newbies.(0-3 years)