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Building an ally plank tipper back myself. Advice needed


Thesnarlingbadger
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I built some bolt on greedy boards for my transit a few years back. Only basic but I found working with the ally planks was a treat - easy to drill, cut and rivet.

 

Service metals also cut the planks to length for me and were spot on.

 

Perhaps amateur sounding but I just put a bit of duct tape where steel met ally. 3 years on and no issues at all. 

 

Good luck the build. 

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Can't find my pics on my phone... 

 

I went all out this last time on my new truck. Built a steel frame (basically a lean too up against the headboard) had this galvanized. 

 

Ordered all my stuff from service metals, alloy planking, alloy Chanel some sheet of alloy. A firm next door to service metals I think it was supplied roller shutter doors for me. 

 

Probs spent 2500 ISH. Money well spent! 

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1 hour ago, swinny said:

Can't find my pics on my phone... 

 

I went all out this last time on my new truck. Built a steel frame (basically a lean too up against the headboard) had this galvanized. 

 

Ordered all my stuff from service metals, alloy planking, alloy Chanel some sheet of alloy. A firm next door to service metals I think it was supplied roller shutter doors for me. 

 

Probs spent 2500 ISH. Money well spent! 

Thats great and thanks for the picks. I've got a pretty good idea of what I'm doing I just don't know about the finer details of it all. I am assuming the channel will bolt on to the box section and then the planks just slot in down the channel between the two up rights of box section. Then I gets a few decent (up to spec rivets will hold the planks in and minimise any rattling about.

 Between the ally channel and the box section I'll put silicon or as Peatff said PU adhesive. Then I guess its just  capping off along the tops.

 

 Right thats the sides and head board covered (note I'll pop a sheet of ally cheque sheeting along the headboard as extra protection).

 

 So Ally flooring. I've looked in to it and see how it basically fits into itself but can't find any information about how to fit it to the box section. I would assume I need a few support beams of smaller box section along the floor and then some more ally channel around the owner edges to fix it all to. Or am I way off?

 

 Any advice welcome and thank you for your input so far (all very helpful). It's a challenge but I alway like forcing myself to lean new things.

 

 Cheers

 

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10 minutes ago, Thesnarlingbadger said:

Thats great and thanks for the picks. I've got a pretty good idea of what I'm doing I just don't know about the finer details of it all. I am assuming the channel will bolt on to the box section and then the planks just slot in down the channel between the two up rights of box section. Then I gets a few decent (up to spec rivets will hold the planks in and minimise any rattling about.

 Between the ally channel and the box section I'll put silicon or as Peatff said PU adhesive. Then I guess its just  capping off along the tops.

 

 Right thats the sides and head board covered (note I'll pop a sheet of ally cheque sheeting along the headboard as extra protection).

 

 So Ally flooring. I've looked in to it and see how it basically fits into itself but can't find any information about how to fit it to the box section. I would assume I need a few support beams of smaller box section along the floor and then some more ally channel around the owner edges to fix it all to. Or am I way off?

 

 Any advice welcome and thank you for your input so far (all very helpful). It's a challenge but I alway like forcing myself to lean new things.

 

 Cheers

 

You can get a plain top plank so you don’t need to cap it - just cap the ends as you are doing.

I’ve never built an ali floor but do have a couple of tippers with them - they are light but dent pretty easily. For the marginal weight increase I’d be inclined to go with easy peasy steel personally, but totally see where you are coming from doing it properly!

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27 minutes ago, monkeybusiness said:

You can get a plain top plank so you don’t need to cap it - just cap the ends as you are doing.

I’ve never built an ali floor but do have a couple of tippers with them - they are light but dent pretty easily. For the marginal weight increase I’d be inclined to go with easy peasy steel personally, but totally see where you are coming from doing it properly!

Nice one. Thank you.

 

 I have a steal base in at the moment but the holes are getting bigger and we seem to be leaving little trails of wood chip everywhere now ?. I do like the steel bed as its hard as nails but it might be easier token everything as ally or mostly.

 

 I am going to the yard in a sec as I want to measure up properly and check the flooring box steel for rust, if there is no rust in it I will likely just use the frame I have, chop it down to size, give it a like of paint and start slotting in ally sections. jobs a good'un.

 

 I will speak to service metals tomorrow and get a price for everything and keep everyone posted.

 

 I won't get around to it for a few weeks but if I have everything lined up for me it should take a weekend and a couple of evenings to knock out (fingers crossed). I'll probably end up finding out why these companies charge 10K.

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For the PU adhesive use “Tiger Seal”, that stuff is stronger than a weld on aluminium but don’t get it on your hands or you will have a tattoo for the next 6 month. Lotus Elise aluminium chassis where bonded together, not sure what they used.

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Just been looking on service metal's website and can't actually see anything about planking or indication of pricing, are they a phone up and ask sort of company?
Really fancy doing something like this on our grafter as the box is looking rather crap now._20200524_151908.jpeg

Really like the 45degree kick up to the roof but can't find any preformed section to do this.

Sorry if owner of this landy in on here and I've just nicked one of your pictures

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