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1 minute ago, Big Beech said:

New Xmas present today for running on the F2, bought for fair money from a friend.

30" Stihl bar in 3/8 with some oregon ripping chain in order for collection tomorrow.

Anyone any thoughts on a 7 tooth rim or 8 tooth.

I've opted for the 8 as that's what I have 🤷‍♂️

IMG-20211220-WA0002.jpeg

8 tooth socket will be fine and that will run  great on the F2 with the correct ripping bar and chain.

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On 18/12/2021 at 18:39, doobin said:

Hate to piss on your chips but they will warp like you wouldn't believe!

Tend to agree. With straight grained softwood you can get away with 100 x 100 section for long posts for fencing panels or similar (they’ll still rot off in a few years even treated🙄) The problem I’ve seen with sweet chestnut(and with oak) is very often at various points along the cut you not cutting with the grain🤔. Cleaving for posts and stakes is the other option. In my opinion Sweet chestnut and oak is far superior to standard treated softwood for posts but it’s best to go up in size to something like 150 x 100 and then would be ideal for quality post and rail fencing using treated softwood rails.

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20 hours ago, Big Beech said:

Stihl bar and oregon chain, its local and in stock so can buy tomorrow and crack on over Xmas and make man glitter💪

Man glitter was made this afternoon....

I need to check that my markers are calibrated either end as I have different board thickness each end.

More of a pain however is i have a board not only thicker one end but also a tapered cut across the board by 6mm it seems.

I've opted for a 30" bar, and was hoping that sag would be negligible.if any at all.

This is not within tolerance of making dimensional timbers.

The smallest large 3002 bar is 25" wondering if that should of been the preferred purchase, if not what should I buy 🤔 

VideoCapture_20211221-162719.jpg

Edited by Big Beech
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41 minutes ago, Big Beech said:

Man glitter was made this afternoon....

I need to check that my markers are calibrated either end as I have different board thickness each end.

More of a pain however is i have a board not only thicker one end but also a tapered cut across the board by 6mm it seems.

I've opted for a 30" bar, and was hoping that sag would be negligible.if any at all.

This is not within tolerance of making dimensional timbers.

The smallest large 3002 bar is 25" wondering if that should of been the preferred purchase, if not what should I buy 🤔 

VideoCapture_20211221-162719.jpg

I find a 20" bar really nice to use anything longer i have the bar clamped with a supporting bracket to stop the sagging.

Edited by topchippyles
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