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On 14/03/2019 at 18:14, Erik said:

The fact that their wood is extremely brittle,  and hard to work with was probably what saved them from extinction.

I read something years ago saying that much of the timber from these had so many shakes from felling that it ended up as shingles. I remember a photo of a trench filled with branches that they'd felled a tree into, in an attempt to prevent shakes - extraordinary lengths to achieve usable timber!

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Hi, I have quite a bit of cherry to mill for myself, about 18-24 inch wide by about 4 ft long. However the few boards I have already cut are splitting and twisting like heĺl, this is despite me pva ing the ends and boards being laid flat on stickers. Also I have some small 4 inch diameter by 6 inch pieces that I'm hoping to use on my laith, however these are also splitting badly.

So just what is the best way of drying cherry ?

Cheers
H.

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2 hours ago, harvey b davison said:

Hi, I have quite a bit of cherry to mill for myself, about 18-24 inch wide by about 4 ft long. However the few boards I have already cut are splitting and twisting like heĺl, this is despite me pva ing the ends and boards being laid flat on stickers. Also I have some small 4 inch diameter by 6 inch pieces that I'm hoping to use on my laith, however these are also splitting badly.

So just what is the best way of drying cherry ?

Cheers
H.

I've never had any timber move whilst drying as much as cherry. One tree that I felled a few years ago split whilst drying and the split ended up 18 inches wide on a 9ft board. Extraordinary. 

 

You won't stop it moving. Just stack well, with weight on top and hope for the best.

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21 hours ago, billpierce said:

I've always used 50:1 of good quality stroke oil (Jaso fd) never had a milling saw seize. They are perhaps tuned slightly rich I.e not right up to absolute max rpm out of the cut. A pal with a 3120 runs 40:1 in his. Also not had any bother.

You will probably get a whole range of answers, I would er slightly on the side of caution as whatever saw your going to use will be run flat out for a extended period of time. But if your saws are issue free, tuned properly and you use a good 2 stroke oil you'll be reet

Thank you Bill and Saul, thats what I was looking for.

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14 hours ago, harvey b davison said:

Hi, I have quite a bit of cherry to mill for myself, about 18-24 inch wide by about 4 ft long. However the few boards I have already cut are splitting and twisting like heĺl, this is despite me pva ing the ends and boards being laid flat on stickers. Also I have some small 4 inch diameter by 6 inch pieces that I'm hoping to use on my laith, however these are also splitting badly.

So just what is the best way of drying cherry ?

Cheers
H.

yes there is.

 

reeeaaaallllyyy slooowlllyy.

 

end seal and keeping it out of the elements so it dries at a slower rate and hope like hell it works...

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All the above is sound advice to follow.
However, if the tree is vertical and balanced...

This is my coffee table,
I felled the tree in August last year,
Milled up within a couple of weeks.
Leant against a wall for a fortnight,
Before being knocked into table shape in a morning.
No sanding or oiling, raw.
Then left in front of a south facing window, close to a radiator.
Probably September.
It has warped and cracked but only slightly. (To my great surprise)
IMG_4860.jpg
IMG_4864.jpgIMG_4866.jpgIMG_4868.jpgIMG_4872.jpg
[emoji848][emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

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