How long will douglas fir posts last untreated?

[Woodworks]

10 hours ago, Big J said:

The most vulnerable bit is not the bit under the ground, but the point a few inches either side of the surface. Below the ground, the environment is anoxic, and bacterial and fungal attack will be slowed as a result. Above the ground, the lack of moisture will slow degradation, but the bit in between will be the issue. Treat that bit most heavily.

 

 

Yes seen this with our present basic sheds. Rot out just below ground level yet the wood below looks OK. 

 

Seen charring of the outer edge suggested as rot inhibitor but anyone tried it?

[Paul in the woods]

I've not used them but would these sort of things be any use? http://www.postsaver.com/Postsaver-Fence-Sleeves.html

 

I'm not sure how a sleeve would cope with shrinkage on a green pole though.

[arboriculturist]

Sweet Chestnut will last longer than either of us will live! Second best would be Oak then Larch in 3rd place.

 

I have had the old Tanalised Douglas and some barely made 15 years depending on density of the stakes.

[Matthew Storrs]

10 hours ago, arboriculturist said:

Sweet Chestnut will last longer than either of us will live! Second best would be Oak then Larch in 3rd place.

 

I have had the old Tanalised Douglas and some barely made 15 years depending on density of the stakes.

Oak and Sweet Chestnut are both good- but sap wood rots quickly, a few years. Thought about telegraph poles Beau?

[Matthew Storrs]

Sorry miss read your first post- yes DF with a few coatings of Creosote would be very durable- particularly good if you can apply the creosote whilst the timber is dried out in the heat- gets into the cracks better- I’d say it be best peeling the posts too prior

[Woodworks]

1 hour ago, Matthew Storrs said:

Sorry miss read your first post- yes DF with a few coatings of Creosote would be very durable- particularly good if you can apply the creosote whilst the timber is dried out in the heat- gets into the cracks better- I’d say it be best peeling the posts too prior

Think thats my plan Matt. Yes other woods are better but got these for firewood money so worth a go I think. Might even try charring them a bit first as well

 

[daveatdave]

on a smallholding type of estate the post and rail fences got painted every year with creosote and a extra couple of brush full round the base at ground level very few posts needed replacing after 40 years 

[Peasgood]

On 14/07/2018 at 10:30, Paul in the woods said:

I've not used them but would these sort of things be any use? http://www.postsaver.com/Postsaver-Fence-Sleeves.html

 

I'm not sure how a sleeve would cope with shrinkage on a green pole though.

Haven't used them either but all telegraph and electric poles have them or similar. You may have seen the silver foil backing on it near the base of the pole.

[Macpherson]

On 14/07/2018 at 10:30, Paul in the woods said:

I've not used them but would these sort of things be any use? http://www.postsaver.com/Postsaver-Fence-Sleeves.html

 

I'm not sure how a sleeve would cope with shrinkage on a green pole though.

Hi, I've not used these but I have done similar using torch on underlay roofing felt, very easy and cheap....so far seems to have helped...I also put a section of plastic pipe round the post if its in a situation that likely to be strimmed.

[Woodworks]

Well I made a shed with it all. Left the uprights to soak in a barrel of Creosote for a bit. Cut some purlins from the larger diameter lengths and used the edge boards to support some Heras panels. Also used some scavenged timber for a couple of the roof timbers. Now all loaded up with some douglas fir logs ready for the winter