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Posted


Ok, but does splicing generally have to be done by someone in the know? As in a certified individual?


As far as I know, there is only one firm in the U.K. who have the licence to splice rope "after-market" and be able to apply a CE mark which is required for LOLER ing PPE climbing kit.
The bottom line here is that in the event of a home splice failing and an insurance claim being sought, the insurance company would use the excuse of "No CE mark" to void the policy and refuse the claim, most likely.
It is a very controversial subject.
The main argument being:
What is safer to climb on;
1. A bowline or similar termination knot with the resultant weakness in the ropes strength...
Or,
2. A well spliced termination performed by an experienced person. ?
Hope this is helpful.
[emoji106]
  • Like 1
Posted


As far as I know, there is only one firm in the U.K. who have the licence to splice rope "after-market" and be able to apply a CE mark which is required for LOLER ing PPE climbing kit.
The bottom line here is that in the event of a home splice failing and an insurance claim being sought, the insurance company would use the excuse of "No CE mark" to void the policy and refuse the claim, most likely.
It is a very controversial subject.
The main argument being:
What is safer to climb on;
1. A bowline or similar termination knot with the resultant weakness in the ropes strength...
Or,
2. A well spliced termination performed by an experienced person. ?
Hope this is helpful.
[emoji106]


Pretty much what I was thinking, Cheers Timon. I know insurance companies will look for any way out, I've always had honey brothers do my splicing for me.[emoji1360]
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Very nice!

Also with the locking brummels I usually lock stitch the tail as it can slide back out whilst not under load (I.e on your harness, during storage). Once loaded they don't move obviously.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Some photos of end to end splice on my zing-it throwline after it snapped. I used Samson 12strand splice instructions, and kinda made up my own technique, using a needle and whipping twine. I'm sure there are many different/easier ways but it worked. I lock stitched it but apparently thats not entirely necessary. I could/should have locked it with a strand of zing-it, as it is much tidier, however I was in a rush and this was easier. Will see how it holds up but should be 90-100% of the strength of the original throwline. Obviously its fatter and more likely to hold up on rough bark, but better than a knot, and better than a short throwline!

20170927_181918.thumb.jpg.18facde2587b0022937343cd7cf9116a.jpg20170927_183507.thumb.jpg.5fea052ff6b55903fb5db67c92f85ca3.jpg20170927_185427.thumb.jpg.5a65b30075dc53993516f5d2a42e14ad.jpg20170927_185448.thumb.jpg.b3daf4c7e0fbe0b5f798162bc9ae20fc.jpg20170927_185522.thumb.jpg.5bd1a1024769aaba2f6d3f0f554f08e2.jpg20170927_185535.thumb.jpg.7a496e5fb200607361bb92bd745bab4e.jpg20170927_185559.thumb.jpg.b078d37e2a5c1b97ccab8b7e5bd6db60.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

914dbbe697b5e8e5becde156b6956375.jpg

 

I recently got in a sulk when I had to rig a branch off in two for lack of an easily available balancing sling.

 

Quick call to honeys and I knocked up a spider's leg.

 

Haven't done a locking brummel in both ends for a while!

 

 

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