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You beauty.

It looks like you've replaced a lot of parts. Is the piston and cylinder kit, and ignition coil oem? Have you tried using the old carb as aftermarket ones are hit and miss at best. You also need to make sure the basics are good, fuel line is good with no leaks plus the fuel filter is good. Spark plug is not a fake ngk as ive seen a few of them which wont spark properly under load. Fuel filter is sitting at the bottom of the tank, sounds silly but Ive fixed a few machines where the filter was jammed up at the top of the tank.

Attached is the only instruction manual for the ms661. You need to do the 90sec reset. This explains how to do it. How To Perform An M-Tronic Reset | STIHL Blog BLOG.STIHL.CO.UK STIHL M-Tronic machines are designed to perform at their best at all times, but they sometimes need a reset. Find out when and how to reset them here. MS661.pdf

Yes, I doubt the chain oil would stay in there for long at all. Some of the grease starts to run out not long after you grease them, loads comes out when doing a pdi. Just to clarify, 99% of the hedge trimmers in the workshop are long reach ones, they really suffer from lack of grease. Its not just that the bearings wear out from lack of grease its water contamination rusting them up. No grease to protect the bearings plus water causes rust. I think the way people store the machines also makes a big difference, if its wet and you store the machine hanging from the powerhead then all the water on the drive tube will run into the bearings. Battery machines are even worse as they have a minimal amount of grease to start off with and a lot of water and debris end up right inside the gearbox. They can easily cost a lot of money to repair not just to replace bearings but conrods soon wear out the locating hole in the blades and they are the best part of £110 to replace, the blades that is, the bearings and the conrods might cost £60 ish. If you also wear out the main cam it can soon become a right off.

Thanks for the replies. One of our husky saws has far too aggressive a chain too

Second most problematic probably.

Much obliged. "It's all in the owner's manual." Obviously the (service) manual I have describes a slightly different procedure... And is for 2013-07 saws. My saw is 2018. Anybody got a manual with the right bit in please?

Cheers Thank you 😊

Yeah, its different splice to a traditional double braid

That's industrial jam making. How do you go about taking all the thousands of stones out? It must take forever with that amount. (I've a vague memory of asking you this same question in a previous year, but I forget the answer! Apologies if so).

Well here’s my two pennies worth - to be honest with you I find your advertising to be boring and tedious having to scroll past and ignore you posts. Not only do you have several adverts across various threads you’ve now taken up several ads in the classified section? If all arb related retailers did what you do the real interesting and often informative threads on arbtalk would be lost and the forum probably die? We all have existing retailers we go to as first point of call, we can all use Google and also use the block adds down the side of every page on here where required and I do? Also when you started I did a couple of comparisons and you weren’t much cheaper if at all than a few other retailers? You asked, that’s my opinion, it of course will make no difference what I say🤔

https://youtu.be/R8J3061XgS0?si=ZWE370tn5vz-IdPR

Both in real world and in a spiking rescue assessment (cs38) I understand it’s beneficial to have a false anchor. I personally have always just done spiking jobs with just a lanyard, but if a it’s an easily tied anchor I will start to use, and also I will need to do it for my cs38. Anyone could explain what a belay system involves as well? Cheers

@Steve Bullman Post the video from one of your Camberley visits please. The manual isn't especially clear.

I've not devoted much time this year to the veg plot. Potatoes have done well enough but could have done with a little watering. Last night, the first sweetcorn, raised at home in fibre pots and planted in full sun with a few squash in between. The taste was...sweet ! Very sweet indeed. The pumpkins, about 40 fruits, are for Halloween, my kids and the local after school club. Onions suffered a lack of water and Red Lily Beetle. Leeks suffered from inattention during my month in Morocco, drowned by woody nightshade which is the most problematic weed I have. I'm on a fertile sandy soil that could always do with more humus.

I imagine avoiding anything with my name on because I generally treat them like an unannounced DEFRA visit.

All the best for the future Pete 👍

I used your guide thanks but the resetting warm was advice I read elsewhere. Anyway, I'm going to remeasure the gaps once I've received the fresh rocker cover rubber seal which leaks a little. Thanks for posting that guide.

That leaking fuel is either the carb needle valve leaking ( most likely) or a severely worn piston skirt on the inlet side causing blowby.

Cheers Mick, Was that the Quad chip back in 2012? The oil filter in a nightmare place above the slewring. It required a home-made 'MouseTrap game' style chute for the oil made from water bottles. I failed every time to cleanly change the oil. The first oil change was done by the dealer who too failed and charged us €80 for steam cleaning on top. Last week I changed the Iveco radiator! I bought one on offer from AutoDoc for a mere €80 ! Took me under 3 hours not rushing. I cheated a little and didn't reinstall the plastic McGuff surrounding the radiator. Saved myself between €600/€900 plus vat Cheapest quote was a mobile mechanic, highest a verbal quote from Iveco main dealer.

So where’s the AA chap that comes on here now and again? Please explain what you’re on about🤔. Or is it a quote from the real AA - Alcoholics Anonymous? - that would make more sense!

the Honda information sheet I linked to doesn't say about reseting the gaps when warm, it just says If adjustment is necessary, proceed as follows: a. Hold the rocker arm pivot and loosen the rocker arm pivot lock nut. b. Turn the rocker arm pivot to obtain the specified clearance. c. Retighten the rocker arm pivot lock nut while holding the rocker arm pivot. TORQUE: 10 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 7 lbt·ft) d. Recheck valve clearance after tightening the rocker arm pivot lock nut. Not sure if this reseting on a warm engine is the right thing to do? Anyway, at least it's running.

Back to my 661, the reason I was doing clutch springs is that it's been running on very badly during some HEAVY use recently. Maintaining a really high idle until I slowed the chain on some wood and then blipped the throttle. Should I do the M tronic reset? The rev it for two minutes thing.

I struggle to put my shoes on some days Mick 😀

I assume these are pier bits? What's the eventual repurposed use?