Ledburyjosh
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Everything posted by Ledburyjosh
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The saw was one a picked up 2md hand in the weekend. In ran fine whilst I was there. I've since rang the fella back who sold it, after a brief chat he got pretty nasty and has since blocked my number So I'm not sure on the history of the saw. I just picked it up from the shop, it has the wrong fuel filter on, which potentially let in some crap to the injectors. Amd it's had fresh air filter. It now does run, but not 100%. There advice was to run a couple of tanks of fuel through it and see if it clears out anything. If not it will be check the piston to make sure it's not damaged and then new injectors .. I wish it was possible to buy something 2md hand without worry of being ripped off.
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It has now been dropped at the fixers. I haven't s clue on these saws
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After some fiddling it seems to work much better if I pump the bubble whilst reving it. So I'm assuming thisnis going to be an issue with the fuel somewhere
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It would manage running for long enough currently
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Thanks, although none of those relate to the 500i as it doesn't have a start position
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I have a ms500i that starts very well but will not rev high. It stutters and stalls when the trigger is pulled. Any advice on what could be the issue?
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This item is SOLD
- FOR SALE
- USED
Stihl MS 661 10/2021 is the manufacture date. Purchased last February. 36" bar. It has had minimal use, the machine is in excellent condition.£950
Penrith - GB
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https://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Climbing-Running/Rock-Trad-Climbing/Ropes/Specialist-Ropes/Beal-Semi-Static-Abseil-Rope-105mm
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I'm assuming this pulley is attached to a sling and that's the bit you are asking about. Girth hitches give 50-80% of rated strength of a sling, dependent on a few variables like friction. Basket gives close to 200% of strength. So yes the basket is considerably stronger. Girth hitch will be plenty strong enough. So choose which ever your happy with.
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They are useful for dead wooding lime trees also if you are feeling lazy
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Any SRT device. Usually an Akimbo for me. I use a soft shackle to attach it to the spliced eye on my second line. That way I carry the hook when needed on my harness and attach it to my 2nd line to move about. The 2nd line could be any length to suit the tree your in.
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More than capable engine power with the whole bar in some beech for the 500i Standard chain and saw. Not really much difference to the 661 in cutting time. I reckon if the 661 only comes out occasionally then I'd opt for a 500i with a bigger bar available for when needed. If it's frequently used I'd say the 661 is a safer option to be sure it will last.
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It does, its certainly strong hence used for dead eyes etc. I've never thought to use it as a base tie with a stopper. Probably cause its quicker and uses less rope to tie a bowline. Particularly if tieing midline After some more thought I still think the bowline is the better know. Particularly for someone learning. There is less variables than a timber hitch. Such as, how many wraps, wraps or circumference around the stem, how should the wraps be-bunched or spread out, what stopper and where? A running bowline works, is safe, it's simple.
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Of course set it up how best makes you feel safe. Curious of a couple of things: How did you feel safety wise prior to SRT and climbed on MRT where none of these was a possibility? Have you ever practised the lowering of a base tie with the rope looped over branches adding friction
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Cutting the base tie would probably get them down quickly. No extra kit required
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That would only work in such a small very precise set of scenarios that it seems not worth the faff and extra rope on the ground. For example, an injury to a climber is most likely to occur when cutting or just after. So they should have a 2nd point of attachment. If they are injured to a point where they can't get themselves down. There are unlikely to be able to remove the 2nd point of attachment. And therefor cannot be lowered by the ground staff. Even if they could be lowered it would require a pretty straigh descent and clean rope line to so there is no friction to prevent them coming down through rope drag. Add in 2 ropes to that and it's a fairly futile setup. A good concept but flawed in reality.
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No harm came of it so your all good. Ask away with anything your unsure on, there is no stupid question when your learning. That video shows the bowline and back up knot but it is not in the running bowline configuration. Do you know what is meant by a running bowline?
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Yes I've used one enough to see the benefits but also not used one in every situation possible. I wish I invested 10 years ago. But with that in mind, now is the time to benefit for the next 10 years.
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A timber hitch is not suitable. It has the potential to work its self loose. A running bowline with a good back up knot is probably the best to use. The base anchors you can buy seem pretty pointless to me. A running bowline is ample.
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Speed and efficiency is the main benefit compared to a 5:1. Its quicker to use, its set up generally from the start of the job so you actually use it, rather than make do. It also has no limit on its length of lift unlike adding a 5:1 to hoist a branch up where you may need to reset. You can do most jobs with out one sure, but it adds a load more things you can do as you can lift and lower branches and wood with a large amount of control. One great use is with zip lines, as you can lift the piece to the top, Tension the zip line then lower it down the zip line. You can also use them to fell trees if you have a suitable anchor tree and use a redirect pulley, which depending on the model means you also have a 1200kg winch to asses fells with you. All round pretty useful bit of kit
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I did notice you don't have to have the brake part attached to use the LD1 as it's a separate component. Not entirely sure when you would use it tbh.. The GRCS certainly has a reputation of being good which goes along way. It is out of budget though so it's the LD1 or nothing for me. Other than the brake did it seem OK to use when you worked with it?
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I'm considering a harken based set up to add to my rigging gear. I currently have a RC3001 and 16mm line, so large heavy lands are dealt with. So doing some research into options. So I'm looking at the LD1, mainly because of the price compared to the larger ones on the market. I'm thinking a LD1, 12mm sirius, x2 isc mini cast pulleys with some 16mm trex loopies. This would all be sized to match or exceed the 800kg WLL of the bollard. Has anyone any experience with the LD1?
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They are all much the same.. big and clumpy. Get one that fits you the best that is the top priority. Edited to add, airstream I agree aren't what they used to be. However I keep an eye out in ebay and pay 80-100 quid for nearly new 2nd hand one. They are still worth it then. My latest 2nd hand pair are lasting well though, the main thing is I stick boot driers in them each night. Maybe they helps!?
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The manual states the gearbox is permanently lubed from the factory. I'm unsure on the technical term for the type of gear box it has. The only maintenance it suggests regarding lube is on moving parts like the throttle mechanism. I shall get the manual tomorrow and confirm I've remembered correctly Yes it has 2 gears 12m/s = 1800kg and 24m/s = 900kg The main selling points on this one for me were it's 1800kg capacity and the throttle mechanism. It's great for felling, you can pretension the line, the tension is held with the machine idling ready to go.
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To expand on this post. The arbpro LD1.. I am looking at one of these, I have a stein rc3001 bollard so heavy negative rigging is covered. So the lower price of the arbpro LD1 is appealing as it would give some pretty good lifting capability. TBH the price of anything else is to high. So, the adverts and price decent job of selling it, what I'm after is some input from people who have used one? whats its downfalls?
