Ledburyjosh

Over hand knot with all strands pulled tight as said above is bomber. Sometimes hard to untie. I usually use a reef knot backed up. Super easy to untie afterwards

And another pointer required please. Getting the last bit a bury.. This is a new tachyon, standard double braid splice. I am struggling to get the final section of the Bury in. The black mark is where it needs to be buried to. It seems super tight to get it to budge at all now. Any top tips? Thanks

Hi, I have just respliced some used tachyon. I went with the splife instructions to make it easier being used rope. All went well except there seems to be a thin patch in the rope. I've put a picture of where this is, it thins between my fingers. Any idea what this is and where I made an error if at all?

I have skipped to the end on this thread so apologies if this has been said already.. In this scenario I have discussed with the customer the outcomes of dragging branches ie. Point out it leaves marks. I have then given options. Such as carry on and except marks, pay more so more time can be given to extracting it in small peices or leave the customer to prepare and protect any surfaces prior to our arrival. The last one is my preference, I usually offer to bring some ply boards to help out protecting walls/fences from scratches also. I don't belive it reality avoiding marks is practical unless the above steps are taken before the job it started. Prior planning for this is the way to go. Its foreseeable and therefor preventable by management

There is many options to choose from each have pros and cons bollard or Portawrap?, bollard is easier to use put costly, portwrap is cheaper, not as easy to use but can also be used not on a tree. Double check the maximum rope size for each device so it doesn't limit your rope choice later on. Portawrap wraps can be attached with the same diameter rope as the rigging line, but it's common to size it up anyways. Rings or pulleys? Ideally get to use both and decide for yourself. These need to be attached with something stronger than your rigging line so good to know what size ropes/force you will be putting through them before commiting to buying them. Rope? Do you natural crotch aswell or only rings/pulleys, what size trees are regualry done? Do companies you work for have a big rope when needed, so you just need your personal prefered kit until the larger main stem? Maybe start with a 12mm and if required get a 2nd larger line. A carabiner, get a good steel one. Other bits and bobs can be added as time goes on

Great point on the gloves. In my rigging box I keep a pair of welding gauntlets for whoever is holding the rope to put on. Not as easy to open carabiner with but quick to put on and off cause they are sloppy fitting.

I informed the local FC of some illegal felling on a building site, the local officer visited agreed it was illegal and they would pass it on to the right department... 11 months have passed and not even a hint anything is being acted on. So most likely conviction rates will go unchanged as there isn't the staff to keep up

It's just a bouncy line

Would Cumbria be included in your description of northwest? If so I shall send over my info.

It seems to be yes. Many other ash, Augustifolia, in the same street which are looking pretty poor.

A couple more of the Ash

I have just been to look at some work and there are a few trees I am unsure of. 1 I'm not confident of the genus and a couple I'm unsure of species. 1. I's a species of Ash. About 5m tall semi-mature/mature, dense dark leaves. (Forgot to take a picture of the form) clean stem door 2m then a rounded crown 2. A grafted acer. Graft print at the top of the stem. Leaf very much like Norway maple and the branch structure is dense and brittle like field maple 3. A birch species, I think a subspecies of himalayas birch? Lovely orange tinge to the bark and very conicle in shape 4. Wasn't sure on this, leaf was out of reach. Unfortunately. I first thought a young tree of heaven. Or perhaps wingnut/walnut of some species. Conicle growth, orange fisures in the bark. Any thoughts on this? I'm about to start looking in my guides also so shall update if/when I figure some out.

In summer 2 batteries last a day. I reckon a 3rd may be needed for winter. I do swap to a ground saw for larger cuts more frequently than when I used petrol climbing saws. Large cuts noticeable drain the battery

Well, I have gone full battery for small saws. I have a husky T540ixp, 540ixp and echo 2500t. I rate all of them, and have no interest in going back to petrol. I love the on/off switch a much better way to work over a pull start. I find now that if I use a petrol saw I think how frustrating it is to start. The T540ixp competes with the ms200's, it has differing pros and cons. The 540ixp is amazing for the majority of arb ground work, especially for jobs where the saw is start and stopped a lot. The echo is by far the best small climbing saw I've ever used.

Good to know, thanks

I have been wanting to work elsewhere in Europe, mainly Scandinavia for some time but feel I missed the boat with Brexit. I have been in touch with a few companies in Sweden Who have all had similar replies, being after brexit work permits are required which take up to a year, meaning they have little interest in you. Gone are the days when you could work for a couple of months there with minimal faff. The ideal thing I'm after is short term work 1-2 months in spring. Has anyone gone through the process of gaining a work permit for Sweden or Norway since Brexit? If so how long, costly etc was it to sort out? Was a job offer required first? Thanks

Wash machine works well

-I'm unsure of Tree species -There is no set distance of which it should be planted -Unsure regarding criminal damage. I would think not. -you are entitled to prune the tree back to the boundary; above and below ground. As long as it doesn't kill the tree. So cut the roots at the boundary. They will obviously grow back though

I take on all tasks on the ground and in trees of any size. Lots of experience as team leader, so happy to run jobs if needed. I come with climbing gear, rigging gear and saws up to 30". I have an Eder power winch 1800 which can also be hired with me for additional costs. References can be provided if requested. Give me a call if I can be of help. Josh

You have answered the question yourself I think and right in your observation assuming the srt is base tied and through or over multiple unions. A large part comes to learning what is safe to tie into with all of the factors which effect that; tree species/characteristics, angle of pull etc. Both systems are plenty safe enough used in the correct way. As mentioned by someone else a top tied srt puts the same force on your tie in point as a drt/mrt. A base tied srt has a theoretical x2 loading of the tie in point. Although in practise is less due to friction being added as the rope passes over the bark and through unions.

OK thanks for the info. I did get down to the motor bolts. The worm gear is all fine, and the pump spline rotated freely. I'll be sure to check the pipe routing

OK, thanks for the replies on this. I know the site to be on free draining sandstone coupled with the trees being large mature trees at the time of building, tree-related subsidence is highly unlikely. For the purposes of what I have been asked a description of the soil type and any other observations will suffice.

I resorted to grips in the end only to find out what you have said above. The pump is accessed from the other side. it looked like more of a faff than I was up for last night so will set to it another night. I shall check for bends in the pipe before getting a new pump. Thanks

Do either of these give enough detail to determine whether those soils are shrinkable?

Thank you