Ledburyjosh
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Everything posted by Ledburyjosh
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Ensure you you do as much as possible to prevent the rope rubbing on the tree stem, that can also glaze ropes. But most likely the small capstan doesn't take long to heat up to a point it melt ropes. Larger bollards like the stein 3001 or GRCS will take longer to heat up so have higher capacity in that way. Steel also takes longer to heat, but retains that heat, aluminium heats quickly but also disapates heat quicker. So if you send large pieces or lower a long way on a small steel capstan that heat is going to build and then hang around.
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15 of these Pops felled and chipped today with a CS100. Great little machine.
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Yeah the cow hitch is a pretty common method. This is for tying deadeyes with rings/pulleys for rigging
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Thanks, that does cover it. It also shows a wide range of results so lacking accuracy, which in its self may be realistic. It states a reductions in % but I can't make out what the baseline for that is, I assume single strand MBS. The thing with a cow hitch is its doubles hut only one is being loaded, so in unsure what applies. It would be great to see some break tests but ai cannot find any online at present.
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Does anyone have any data or links to break tests of a cow hitch compared to single strand MBS? For an example if a single strand is rated 10kn, and you tie a cow hitch, does this half it to 5kn, or initially double it for two strands, 20kn then half that so your back at 10kn?
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No idea, it's not done for weight saving. Just versatility of a pinto. I opted not to splice straight into the pinto with a dead eye as it can be used on a rigging plate for speed lines or reeves. So the idea with the soft shackle was so I can add and remove the wrench as and when required
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Rope wrench attached to a pinto with a soft shackle.
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Hi, Does anyone use any apps (ideally in the free or £10pm price range) for creating and sending quotes which allow you to add pictures and details of the job etc? Ta,
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I'd discuss with the tree officer first. Ask for their opion. Using hand tools and man power to remove the existing concrete. Dependant on the depth that takes you to may dicate what goes on top. A test dig may be wise. I've had good result removing the existing top surface then adding either cellular systems or sub base & tarmac. Which ever will be best at spreading the loads/preventing compaction and only using existing depth.
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Did this get done?
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I'm not fussed for CE stamps on my kit I'm more keen for a good device.
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Hi, Can anyone recommend a supplier of large trees 6-7m in the North of Engalnd. Or any in the UK that you'd recommend?
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Do you have professional indemnity insurance? If not do not state such things in writing. The majority of PL policies (do check) cover verbal advice. Once written that requires differing insurance to be covered. So offer verbal advice and let them decide. As for instability, of the elm my thoughts would be at the rate of decay of a Ash stump the Elm (assuming its healthy) will adapt at a similar rate and will unlikely be an issue. It's quite likely it is independently stable anyway even without the Ash. An altered wind loading on the Elm could be considered but its pretty small so I wouldn't think that a big problem. To answer the question though, you've advised removal of both, if they choose to remove only one that is a choice of there's against professional advice. So I do not see how you could be liable You can only advice not enforce.
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Does anyone have any knowledge of when this could be available? Looks like a well thought out device. Like a MKii akimbo that looks more ergonomic and might be reliable..
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I have a 5, 10, 20, 25, 30 & 60m rope along with my little side strop and pick the appropriate one or two for the tree size. Minimal excess rope on the ground is the aim for me
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OK thanks. Have you seen both saws side by side to see that?
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I known of many 500i's in use none have yet to have problems..
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Yup I found the msa220 horid and lacking power.
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Tree surveyor. Experienced with safety surveys and development surveys. Technicians Certificate in Arb. QTRA registered. Professional Tree Inspector. Pear technology PT mapper & OTISS tree available to use.
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That's just low battery, swap batteries when that starts happening. 1 light is the lowest indicator, it does not go to zero lights to display no battery remaining
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The echo 2500 battery shouldn't be over looked mind. It's impressive (tested side by side in a 4" log cuts faster than the new stihl battery top handle and 151 which i wasnt expecting) and amazing erganomics all without the faff of pulling a cord to start it. It's an absolute winner for pruning, but equally will keep cutting with a 10" bar all in wood.
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Having looked at each parts diagram I suspect that yes it can be modified. I watched a yountube vid which shows the side cover fitting on to a 540i. The diagram suggests if everything from the worm gear outwards is changed a 540i would take a clutch..
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Great thanks. The enlarged cover sounds good, I cut some off from my 540i to help with blockages, it is an annoyance. I've never had an issue with my throttle, or atkeast never one that I've picked up on. Managing larger cuts is a bonus or more for me it would be it tough grain. I find the one place I don't think batteries out do petrol is flush cutting when removing trees. It's slow, drains battery and stops frequently. This is the bit that bugs me and I was curious of if it was a worthy improvement... Now I wander if you can mod a 540i with the clutch and cover parts instead of buying a 542i..?
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Has anyone got to to have a go on the new husky saw? I have the t540ixp and am a battery convert. I had discussed with colleagues it would be much better with a clutch to allow it to slip a bit and keep cutting. Well the new model has a clutch, so I'm wandering of selling mine and going for the 542ixp. But would like to hear from anyone who's had a go to get an idea of how much better it is?
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Where in the NW? I am in Cumbria and have some days available
