Ledburyjosh
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Everything posted by Ledburyjosh
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I'm considering a harken based set up to add to my rigging gear. I currently have a RC3001 and 16mm line, so large heavy lands are dealt with. So doing some research into options. So I'm looking at the LD1, mainly because of the price compared to the larger ones on the market. I'm thinking a LD1, 12mm sirius, x2 isc mini cast pulleys with some 16mm trex loopies. This would all be sized to match or exceed the 800kg WLL of the bollard. Has anyone any experience with the LD1?
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They are all much the same.. big and clumpy. Get one that fits you the best that is the top priority. Edited to add, airstream I agree aren't what they used to be. However I keep an eye out in ebay and pay 80-100 quid for nearly new 2nd hand one. They are still worth it then. My latest 2nd hand pair are lasting well though, the main thing is I stick boot driers in them each night. Maybe they helps!?
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The manual states the gearbox is permanently lubed from the factory. I'm unsure on the technical term for the type of gear box it has. The only maintenance it suggests regarding lube is on moving parts like the throttle mechanism. I shall get the manual tomorrow and confirm I've remembered correctly Yes it has 2 gears 12m/s = 1800kg and 24m/s = 900kg The main selling points on this one for me were it's 1800kg capacity and the throttle mechanism. It's great for felling, you can pretension the line, the tension is held with the machine idling ready to go.
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To expand on this post. The arbpro LD1.. I am looking at one of these, I have a stein rc3001 bollard so heavy negative rigging is covered. So the lower price of the arbpro LD1 is appealing as it would give some pretty good lifting capability. TBH the price of anything else is to high. So, the adverts and price decent job of selling it, what I'm after is some input from people who have used one? whats its downfalls?
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The machine has been mine since new and has not had any issues/major repairs. The most likely reason is as you have pointed out, the sprocket is not OEM. The rim sprocket replaced yesterday now is, however it's the bit that slides on is still a farmertec one. That will be changed next. I shall report back once I have a replacement OEM part. Thanks so far for the input
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It is a MS460 2009 model. Yeah I'm confident it's not the chain. I've tried x2 chains on a 25" bar and x1 chain on a 18" bar. They all do the same. As as above on one of the pictures I posted with the blue marker pen lines on the bar. The loosening of the chain happens at set intervals which relate to the circumference of the sprocket. I.e. every tike the sprocket is back in the same place the chain is loose I'm all up for any suggestions to look at though, I'm no expert, just saying what I observe
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I started looking for at as recently my saw has started getting stuck in cuts, particularly angled cuts on gobs. Which is has not done before and my sharpening is always consistent with guides etc. The slackening of the chain would explain this. Nonetheless I shall stick the chain back on and get a picture to get some more opinions and input
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Hi, I am hiring an Eder power winch 1800 and myself out in Cumbria. It is a petrol portable capstan winch with an 1800kg pull for assisted fells or extracting. I am also good at climbing and felling, so with myself and the winch, I'm hoping it will be a useful combo, with setting lines, removing any branches to help the fell etc. I will Have a couple of lines for the winch, the longest being 100m, so it will have a decent range on it. The rate is £250 per day, for myself, rigging gear and winch. Depending on where the job travel costs may need to be discussed also. If you would like to know any more info or discuss then do let me know. Josh
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I have come to the same conclusion. A new rim sprocket was fitted today and the issue still persists. So the next and last thing to change will be the bit the rim sprocket goes on.. unsure of the name of that bit. Hopefully that's the fix. Odd as it's been on for a while, I can't see what would cause it to change shape slightly. Either way if I replace that then it would have had new clutch bearing and sprocket kit. Which doesn't leave much else...
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A new chain does not remedy it. I marked the distance the chain moves between each loose bit. And it matches the circumference of the sprocket. So it's definitely relating to something around the sprocket. I'll put a new sprocket and clutch plate on next.. 🤞
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OK. I shall try a new chain also to be sure. I'm not convinced though as I have tried 2 bar and chain combinations. Unless both are worn?
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I have noticed that my chain is going tight and loose as I rotate it. It happens on multiple chains and bars on the same engine unit. So can say its the sprocket end being the issue. It also oil's fine and had some new pin bearings in today. I've had this before due to a worn sprocket . This time though the sprocket is pretty new. So I would have expected this. I shall replace it anyway to be sure. But not until next week now. So in the mean time does anyone have any suggestions of what to check? Could the drive shaft be out? And if so could that be checked? Thanks
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Yeah it's pretty good, no complaints with the husky for me. Stihl still omit from adding any type of clipping point directly to the back of the chainsaw as found on the 540 family, and on the echo battery climbing saw. Echo nailed the design of that saw. I also have two brands of batteries, kind of annoying. It's for the Echo DCS2500t. A tiny battery saw which no other brand make a competitor to. Which is my favourite bit of work gear I've ever bought. Worth having 2 battery set up for sure. Would be better if it was the same brand financially though..
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Agree with this. The switching it's self off in seconds is infuriating. Husky and echo saw stay on for a while without the chain brake on and even longer with the brake on. Much more user friendly. Husky added a 2 way dead man handle for extra safety which was annoying but is not thought about now. Maybe the stihl system will become that way? I imagine not though as the switch will require altering your hand position to turn it back on just after you've lined up on your cut. The machine is heavier and slower cutting compared to the t540ixp. Seems like a flop given the time it's taken to appear on the shelves. I have the t540ixp and really rate it, a friend just got the 220t. So I have used them side by side and there is a clear winner to me. Which I want expecting. The stihl also had a 12" bar the husky 14" and was still lighter and quicker. (I have no bias to either brand)
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Is that not what the lock stitching prevents?
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Thanks. I guess the question I'm asking on this thread is are there any cheaper alternatives -sub £2k- That get close to competing with the greenmech cs100?.
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Hyundai 420cc Petrol 4-Stroke Wood Chipper/Shredder/Mulcher | HYCH1500E-2 HYUNDAIPOWEREQUIPMENT.CO.UK The HYCH1500E-2 is an extremely powerful and easaily transportable wood chipper from Hyundai, powered by the... Has anyone any experience with these models good or bad?
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If you go with shovelling chip, here are two things that make it a much easier task... Bulldog Potato Fork 30" - 9 Prongs - Metal YD Handle - Ash Grip - 4737103050 | Potato & Plantation Forks | bulldoghandtools.co.uk BULLDOGHANDTOOLS.CO.UK Bulldog Potato Fork 30 Loadhandler UK LOADHANDLER.CO.UK The Loadhandler is designed to simply and safely unload your pickup of logs, woodchip and much more It simply fits onto the tailgate with no drilling or welding necessary. The LH2200M or...
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This one I am pretty happy with.
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One used Tachyon, following Samsons modified instructions for used rope. Another new one foolowing samsons double braid. One thing i noticed it there is a lump by the whipping where the core isnt tapered very well. On my next one i shall take the core further down, samsons instructions are 1/3 fid, which doesn't leave much slack to pull it out and taper it. So shall go for 2/3 fid from now on.
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Some unsuccessful attempts. The green one I forgot to cut and taper the core before the final burry. The orange one I made the eye to tight.
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A captain hook can be useful for this
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so I can start the lock stitching about 50mm down from the throat. that way I can open the eye up slightly to get the ring in and out to move it onto shorter bits of rope
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The compressor is fixed and back running now. I took it off the tank, took the casing of and noticed a switch... Obviously a safety cut if switch of sorts.
