Ledburyjosh

That could be good reasoning for it yes. But is it a legal requirement to give 5 days notice?

A private estate. My understanding is that is all that is needed. The tree is exempt, and therefor not covered by a TPO, therefor carry on. The photos are an obvious thing to take many of to provide evidence should you be questioned on it

Yes I had seen this, It then led me to look in the T&CPA to try and find out where it actually states this is a requirement but I could not see it

Yes I understand it may be deemed polite to keep the TO in the loop. I am still wanting to find the exact wording as I would like to know if the notice is actually required or not.

I have a big dead tree over multiple gas tanks to remove the tree has a TPO(group). This is now exempt as it is both dead and dangerous, no lesser work apart from removal is adequate. My questions are: Is a 5 day notice actually required and still a thing? it seems pointless as the tree is exempt from the TPO so it's coming down regardless. Where in the T&CPA does it discuss exemptions and how to deal with them, I have looked through and cannot see, perhaps I am overlooking it? I have taken my information so far from memory and the following link: Paragraph's 60 & 79. /assets/static/govuk-opengraph-image-dade2dad5775023b0568381c4c074b86318194edb36d3d68df721eea7deeac4b.png Tree Preservation Orders and trees in conservation areas - GOV.UK WWW.GOV.UK Explains the legislation governing Tree Preservation Orders and tree protection in conservation areas. Thanks Josh

cutting it at 10' would just mean loads of growth starting at 10'. if you want low down density, the cuts need to be made low down. 3 options 1. Coppice it 2. Lay it 3. Thin it, remove the thickest stem right down low, repeat every year or 2

Leaves in gutters etc is not a reason to remove/prune a tree. Just clean your drain/gutters out. And no there is no right to light. The tree owner does not have to announce they are carrying out work to neighbours. All neighbours do have the right to cut back the overhanging branches to the boundary. This would be done at the expense of each property owner, not the tree owners. If you take this approach it would be good to advise the tree owner you are going to do this and give them an opportunity to get it done them selves. There are also access issues regarding this, Such as gaining access into the tree would require permission. If the tree is dropping branches and you feel it is dangerous (impossible to say from this picture and online in general and people have a tendency to over-exaggerate the risk of trees). Then you should approach the owner and express your concern. Suggest they have it surveyed. Log this information for future, say should damage or harm be caused it shows negligence. As you do have the right to being safe from other people's property. The tree in this case. There are no laws I'm aware of for you to use to get them to prune a tree in this case. Just ones to use should it fail and negligence could be proven, hence the above paragraph.

That is a very unusual suspect job. Would be great to know how it came about and why. On the surface of the pictures it looks totally the wrong way to deal with those Oaks

I'll have a look around the clutcj

The saw was one a picked up 2md hand in the weekend. In ran fine whilst I was there. I've since rang the fella back who sold it, after a brief chat he got pretty nasty and has since blocked my number So I'm not sure on the history of the saw. I just picked it up from the shop, it has the wrong fuel filter on, which potentially let in some crap to the injectors. Amd it's had fresh air filter. It now does run, but not 100%. There advice was to run a couple of tanks of fuel through it and see if it clears out anything. If not it will be check the piston to make sure it's not damaged and then new injectors .. I wish it was possible to buy something 2md hand without worry of being ripped off.

It has now been dropped at the fixers. I haven't s clue on these saws

After some fiddling it seems to work much better if I pump the bubble whilst reving it. So I'm assuming thisnis going to be an issue with the fuel somewhere

It would manage running for long enough currently

Thanks, although none of those relate to the 500i as it doesn't have a start position

I have a ms500i that starts very well but will not rev high. It stutters and stalls when the trigger is pulled. Any advice on what could be the issue?

https://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Climbing-Running/Rock-Trad-Climbing/Ropes/Specialist-Ropes/Beal-Semi-Static-Abseil-Rope-105mm

I'm assuming this pulley is attached to a sling and that's the bit you are asking about. Girth hitches give 50-80% of rated strength of a sling, dependent on a few variables like friction. Basket gives close to 200% of strength. So yes the basket is considerably stronger. Girth hitch will be plenty strong enough. So choose which ever your happy with.

They are useful for dead wooding lime trees also if you are feeling lazy

Any SRT device. Usually an Akimbo for me. I use a soft shackle to attach it to the spliced eye on my second line. That way I carry the hook when needed on my harness and attach it to my 2nd line to move about. The 2nd line could be any length to suit the tree your in.

More than capable engine power with the whole bar in some beech for the 500i Standard chain and saw. Not really much difference to the 661 in cutting time. I reckon if the 661 only comes out occasionally then I'd opt for a 500i with a bigger bar available for when needed. If it's frequently used I'd say the 661 is a safer option to be sure it will last.

It does, its certainly strong hence used for dead eyes etc. I've never thought to use it as a base tie with a stopper. Probably cause its quicker and uses less rope to tie a bowline. Particularly if tieing midline After some more thought I still think the bowline is the better know. Particularly for someone learning. There is less variables than a timber hitch. Such as, how many wraps, wraps or circumference around the stem, how should the wraps be-bunched or spread out, what stopper and where? A running bowline works, is safe, it's simple.

Of course set it up how best makes you feel safe. Curious of a couple of things: How did you feel safety wise prior to SRT and climbed on MRT where none of these was a possibility? Have you ever practised the lowering of a base tie with the rope looped over branches adding friction

Cutting the base tie would probably get them down quickly. No extra kit required

That would only work in such a small very precise set of scenarios that it seems not worth the faff and extra rope on the ground. For example, an injury to a climber is most likely to occur when cutting or just after. So they should have a 2nd point of attachment. If they are injured to a point where they can't get themselves down. There are unlikely to be able to remove the 2nd point of attachment. And therefor cannot be lowered by the ground staff. Even if they could be lowered it would require a pretty straigh descent and clean rope line to so there is no friction to prevent them coming down through rope drag. Add in 2 ropes to that and it's a fairly futile setup. A good concept but flawed in reality.

No harm came of it so your all good. Ask away with anything your unsure on, there is no stupid question when your learning. That video shows the bowline and back up knot but it is not in the running bowline configuration. Do you know what is meant by a running bowline?