Ledburyjosh

The first comment is the one to follow should you wish to retain the tree. Otherwise removing it is the other option. Which you choose is your personal preference. I'd say if it's a nice tree, beneficial to your garden and to others who can see it, then mulch it first and see how you like it then. Mulch can either be decorative bark or woodchip. Out it on around 100mm thick. And maybe hold it in place with some sort of edging

https://m.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Multi-pitch-rappelling-with-a-single-rope?ProductName=PUR-LINE-6-mm#:~:text=With%20a%20GRIGRI%2C%20it%20is,only%20for%20retrieving%20the%20rope. Petzl also have no back up recommendations for abseiling a single line. So I'd say scrap the prussik and knots below and just go on the gri gri

I am a frequent gri gri user in rock climbing. I've abseiled alot on one and never backed it up. I dont belive they need it. You could use it in a moving rope set up to decend. Either over a branch or use a cadmium saver. Petzl dont suggest backing it up like this. Link below. https://m.petzl.com/INT/en/Sport/Self-lowering?ProductName=GRIGRI

Thanks. I have already been in touch with him. And sounds like he has the gear to help out.

Finished this today. Some pictures showing the process

Hi. Could anyone recommend a person/company who owns and operates an air spade in the cumbria region? I have a client who is in need of a new water main being installed which passes close to several trees. The work specification has been dont in line with NJUG vol 4 so its trenchless digging and minimal damage to roots is required. Thanks

Great thanks again. I shall go through this sequence once the saw has been running a while tomorrow. Thanks

I'm after some more advice please. The same saw, ms460. I have dropped the rpm to around 13000. I've now found the saw stalls occasionally. This happens after a cut once full throttle has been released. Or when the saw has had the chain brake on, and then released it stalls just as the throttle is touched. Prior to dropping the RPM the saw ran and idled without issue. Any advice on this would be great. Is there a certain RPM is should idle at? Thanks

That's great. Very comprehensive answer, much appreciated. The tip for getting the limiters out was super useful. The saw is back down to about 13000 rpm. Sounds much better now, doesn't seem to cut much or any slower either. Thanks

I am checking the high end revs of my MS460 after putting a duel port exhaust on. It's running at 14200rpm. With a 25" bar and chain on. I believe it should be 13500rpm max. So needs to be brought down a bit. So a couple of questions: Should the H revs be set with a bar and chain on or just the engine unit? Can any one confirm if the 13500 max RPM is correct? And generally any tips on anything else I can do? Thanks

Hi, I have been thinking bout surveying Ash trees and coming up with a logical standardised system to do so. Ive come up with the below so far but would be keen to discuss it and open it up for some constructive criticism and sharing of ideas and experience on this one. I have been trying to work a formula, which is by far complete yet. Which would work out a score which gives an urgency for the tree to be removed based on 3 factors. Ill explain what I have so far and see if it is something that can be developed into a workable idea. -Class 1- 100-75%, 2-74-50%, 3-49-25% or 4-24-0%. based on foliage present -Target area on a score of 4. Something like this 1 – No immediate hazard, such as a woodland. 2-low risk such as a low use pedestrian area, 3 medium risk, such as a park land tree or quiet lane, 4- high risk, such as close to buildings, busy pedestrian area or road traffic. -Ease of dealing with the tree again out of 4. 1- Tree can be felled. 2- tree can be dismantled with no rigging and mewp access. 3- Tree can be dealt with by large machinery/mewps and rigging. 4- tree must be climbed/out of reach for mewps/cranes etc These could then be multiplied together to give a score, the higher the number the more urgent. The numbers being between 1 and 64. Having a system like this would be appropriate for land owners with large amounts of Ash trees and it gives a very logical order in which to approach and order the work. Any thoughts on this?

You can subscribe to some survey software which will allow you to do this. Pear technology or OTTIS are a couple to look at.

Thanks for the help. 3 splices completed

No I use srt through out. Base tie for access and working off, use a second line that swaps between srt and srt. Unless it's a dismantle then I change to a top tie with minimal rope left to tangle on the ground.

No but I'm hoping for some replies as I'm looking at the Xstatic line myself

OK thanks. So possible but not endorsed. I do climb SRT so rarely need one a I'm looking for a 60m line that will mostly be base tied. But occasionally it's useful, the main occasion being double roping of a tall pole. But that's rare so not a deal breaker on the rope. Just curious whilst deciding what rope

Hi. Are older zig zag available any where does anyone know? I'd quite like one of the previous models which is significantly smaller that the current ones for a second line. Thanks

Hi. Ia it possible to splice Xstatic rope? I cant find any instructions on Teufelbergers website, so assuming not.. Thanks

Yes that answers my questions just right. Thank you. I was just unsure if I could adjust the eye size from what they give you and still use the remaining measurements. Thanks again

Hi, Can anyone point me in the right direction of some splicing instructions for Sirius bull that is done in Fid lengths? I have found the instructions on teufelbergers website but it gives set measurements to go on rather than fid lengths. As I want to make a smaller eye than the one they give instructions im trying to convert them, which makes sense apart from mark 1-2 as I cant seem to find a common fid length this would relate to across the rope diameters. I have this so far: End to A: 1 FID A to B: EYE SIZE B-C: 1/3 FID 1-2: ? 2-3: 1 FID What is the missing mark 1 to 2 length in Fids? Thanks

Hi, Can anyone point me in the right direction of some splicing instructions for Sirius bull that is done in Fid lengths? I have found the instructions on teufelbergers website but it gives set measurements to go on rather than fid lengths. As I want to make a smaller eye than the one they give instructions im trying to convert them, which makes sense apart from mark 1-2 as I cant seem to find a common fid length this would relate to across the rope diameters. I have this so far: End to A: 1 FID A to B: EYE SIZE B-C: 1/3 FID 1-2: ? 2-3: 1 FID What is the missing mark 1 to 2 length in Fids? Thanks

Nothing wrong with 2 lines. I wouldn't limit your self to only having a short or long strop etc. I have a 50m 30m 17m 10m 5m & 2.5m rope and choice which rope/combination of ropes is best for the job The ART positioner look good as a side strop attachment but if your using it on a second line you wont be able to ascend it if you climb SRT. It is rated for a single line though so good for extending your strop to get a better work position A couple of options for that would be an Akimbo as it can swap between double or single rope easy. or a VT with an easily attachable rope wrench should you want to convert to SRT mid climb. Thats all asuming you climb on single line mind