Ledburyjosh

HYWAY STIHL 046 MS460 54 MM BIG BORE CYLINDER KIT NISIC 12 MONTH WARRANTY WWW.SAWBITS.CO.UK Hyway compatible Stihl 046 ms460 cylinder kit new 54mm big bore comprising of cylinder piston piston rings gudgeon...

OK thanks. Sounds like replacing both is the way to go. Whilst I am at it is it worth replacing the carb also? I had a look at piston and cylinder kits, and noticed I could put a 54mm one on rather than the 52mm for a bit more power. Would other parts need replacing for this to be compatible?

Thank you. I shall get some pictures. It will be a couple of weeks until I start on it as I need to borrow a saw first to keep me going whilst fix this one. To make sure I understand. The Bore and cylinder are not the same thing is that correct?

I shall order a pressure checking thing and report back. Is there a way to determine if it is the bore or piston visually? Can bores be replaced and if so is it economical to do so? What I'm trying to think of is if I order a piston and fit that to find the problem still persists then it was the bore. Is there a systematic way of diagnosis to figure if it's the bore or piston without replacing the piston to find out it was the bore? Thanks

Thanks for an incredibly useful answer again. I do know fine sawdust does have a habit of getting past the filter on this saw and always has. I've tried several filter types to help. But when ever I clean it there is always fine dust stuck to the plastic the wrong side of the filter. So I wouldn't be surprised if the bore is worn. Perhaps I need to try and update the filter system when intake it apart. When you say toughen it up up a bit, could you explain what's meant by that? Thanks

Hi I have a 2009 MS460 which has been and still is a great saw. Last year I added a duel port exhaust and retunned the engine to 2700 idle and 13,000H. To do this I did remove the limiter caps. Recently I the saw kept stalling during idle and was running sloe on the top end. So I have just checked and reset it. It was at 2200 idle and 11200H. So back to 2700 idle and 13000H. I have noticed that the H screw is pretty much all the way in so no more future adjustment. For now this is OK. I wander how to manage this when it needs adjusting again. Is there a way to accurately reset all screes without the limiter caps? Is it just the saw getting old and on its last legs? Any advice would be great thanks

Hi, Has anyone experience with the rigging wrench's? I'm wandering what real-world difference there is between the 2 models with increased friction with the locking bearing? The use I see for it for myself is light hand held rigging of fiddly small bits over greenhouses etc or for lowering of bits from a reduction with the ability to pull up to untangle stuff as it gets snagged on its way down. It makes me think that the lighter duty one with the non locking bearing would be best as if its heavy enough to require extra friction I would be using a capstan or started with rings. Has any one any thoughts experience to share? Thanks

Yup, I picked up a 2nd hand rc3000 for £100 much cheaper. Not very common to find 2md hand though which is more likely to be the limiting factor

OK thanks for the advice

I use 2 bridges each with a swivel. I find you can untangle your self from most situations with this. I've heard good things about a camp gyro but not tried one

About up to the mark, I may well have made it a touch smaller than intended, but that's fine. I like it holding the carabiner so it doesn't flop about. Can they be to small? Except not being able to put a carabiner through it

For the orange one I assume? Yes it is tight, not so tight it won't fit a carabiner in though. I shall try again tomorrow and be more forceful then, thanks

+1 for Xstatic. I have a 60m length which I went for for tall trees when base tied. Its great. And I dont miss a splice on it as its mainly base tied. Other wise I have multiple lengths of Tachyon 15m - 35m for other stuff. It's a great rope, but does bounce a bit. No where near drenaline bounce. But after using x static I shall move towards more static when there get replaced. Probably Couger will be next as it comes it multiple colours which is good for 2 ropes.

Over hand knot with all strands pulled tight as said above is bomber. Sometimes hard to untie. I usually use a reef knot backed up. Super easy to untie afterwards

And another pointer required please. Getting the last bit a bury.. This is a new tachyon, standard double braid splice. I am struggling to get the final section of the Bury in. The black mark is where it needs to be buried to. It seems super tight to get it to budge at all now. Any top tips? Thanks

Hi, I have just respliced some used tachyon. I went with the splife instructions to make it easier being used rope. All went well except there seems to be a thin patch in the rope. I've put a picture of where this is, it thins between my fingers. Any idea what this is and where I made an error if at all?

I have skipped to the end on this thread so apologies if this has been said already.. In this scenario I have discussed with the customer the outcomes of dragging branches ie. Point out it leaves marks. I have then given options. Such as carry on and except marks, pay more so more time can be given to extracting it in small peices or leave the customer to prepare and protect any surfaces prior to our arrival. The last one is my preference, I usually offer to bring some ply boards to help out protecting walls/fences from scratches also. I don't belive it reality avoiding marks is practical unless the above steps are taken before the job it started. Prior planning for this is the way to go. Its foreseeable and therefor preventable by management

There is many options to choose from each have pros and cons bollard or Portawrap?, bollard is easier to use put costly, portwrap is cheaper, not as easy to use but can also be used not on a tree. Double check the maximum rope size for each device so it doesn't limit your rope choice later on. Portawrap wraps can be attached with the same diameter rope as the rigging line, but it's common to size it up anyways. Rings or pulleys? Ideally get to use both and decide for yourself. These need to be attached with something stronger than your rigging line so good to know what size ropes/force you will be putting through them before commiting to buying them. Rope? Do you natural crotch aswell or only rings/pulleys, what size trees are regualry done? Do companies you work for have a big rope when needed, so you just need your personal prefered kit until the larger main stem? Maybe start with a 12mm and if required get a 2nd larger line. A carabiner, get a good steel one. Other bits and bobs can be added as time goes on

Great point on the gloves. In my rigging box I keep a pair of welding gauntlets for whoever is holding the rope to put on. Not as easy to open carabiner with but quick to put on and off cause they are sloppy fitting.

I informed the local FC of some illegal felling on a building site, the local officer visited agreed it was illegal and they would pass it on to the right department... 11 months have passed and not even a hint anything is being acted on. So most likely conviction rates will go unchanged as there isn't the staff to keep up

It's just a bouncy line

Would Cumbria be included in your description of northwest? If so I shall send over my info.

It seems to be yes. Many other ash, Augustifolia, in the same street which are looking pretty poor.

A couple more of the Ash

I have just been to look at some work and there are a few trees I am unsure of. 1 I'm not confident of the genus and a couple I'm unsure of species. 1. I's a species of Ash. About 5m tall semi-mature/mature, dense dark leaves. (Forgot to take a picture of the form) clean stem door 2m then a rounded crown 2. A grafted acer. Graft print at the top of the stem. Leaf very much like Norway maple and the branch structure is dense and brittle like field maple 3. A birch species, I think a subspecies of himalayas birch? Lovely orange tinge to the bark and very conicle in shape 4. Wasn't sure on this, leaf was out of reach. Unfortunately. I first thought a young tree of heaven. Or perhaps wingnut/walnut of some species. Conicle growth, orange fisures in the bark. Any thoughts on this? I'm about to start looking in my guides also so shall update if/when I figure some out.