Bill C

Crimp-on-heat shrinks but space then out along the wire, ie not all in one place. As for solder if it's copper wire it works but most wire is now a alloy and it shouldn't be soldered, goes black, breaks or the resistance of the wire changes and if the circuit is ECU controlled it can cause fault code spikes.

Speak to Rob B at chainsaw bars. I use Panther chain and can't fault it.

The day after the storm, Ahh, the morning chorus of small CC saws with blunt chains🥺, even the dog looked annoyed on his walk😠 though one person did try to hide what he was cutting behind a smoke screen of a bad mix of two stroke oil and burnt timber🤣

Air filter covers wrong and the cylinder cover doesn't look like a 240 or a 024. The fuel caps make it a pre MS saw. Will need more photos to get even a guess at what it is.

The same company sell these Tipper Side Marker Lamp Support Bracket - REX6CRSU13L6 - VFS Parts & Aftersales VFS-PARTS.CO.UK Tipper Side Marker Lamp Support Bracket VFS Part Number: REX6CRSU13L6 To find the body type, click here: Body Type If in doubt, please contact us. Might be easier to to go to a local HGV body repair shop and see what they have in stock.

Second a oil pressure test kit test the engine and then change the oil and filter and retest. Also pressure is not the be all and end all, the volume of oil is more important.

Isuzu's are hard to break and the aftersales are second to none, agree they are basic but good work horses. The basic design of the range is the same just uprated for heavier loads. As for 3.5 tonne v 7.5 tonne that depends on what you need to carry. Years ago we had a customer blow a engine on a new 5.5 tonne van, new engine arrived next day, that afternoon the customers second van did the same thing at the same place. Next day the engineers arrived from the Factory in Japan to sort the problem, and worked without stopping until they did. You don't get that service from many companies.

Petrol V battery, depends on what you use it for, lots of small(up to 5" or so) fire wood I've been converted to battery so much easier, no idling saw or starting it no petrol and a bit less noise(about 10db). Also top up oil and charge battery and that's it. I've a Stihl MS 180 with a 14"x3/8"x0.043 pmm chain and a Makita DUC305Z with a 12"x3/8"x0.043pmm chain both weigh 5.4kg. I've just milled(hard on any saw) 8yr old Oak 3" thick and 240" long, the Stihl used 1/2 tank of fuel. I also milled with the Makita 2yr old Ash 2" thick and 190" long and that used 1/2 battery charge, so not much difference. Using the saws, both about the same size but the battery saw is a little more rear heavy, other than that about the same.

Second the Stihl MS17*/18* series saws, light and easy to handle, had my MS180 since 2005 and can't fault it. Have the 3/8"x0.043 pmm chain on a 12/14" bar and keep it sharp and it'll deal with what you are planning to cut. If you use the Makita LXT range of power tools the Makita 36 volt battery saws are close to the Stihl MS170 and to be honest the battery saws are nicer to use on small fire wood and if you keep the chain sharp a set of batteries will do a dumpy bag of fire wood.

No trees only sand and dune grass.

If you're doing lots of long walks Terrier or Dalmatian. They'll walk all day with out causing too much trouble. Both breeds are as healthy as can be expected.

As long as the bar and chain match and the bar mounts and sprocket match the bar and chain it'll fit. It'll make the saw work harder.

I've never taken a electric or battery saw apart but I suspect they have a brake band the same as any petrol saw around a rotor on the electric motor. The front brake guard/lever works the same on all types of saw, pushed forward by your left hand and Inertia. The inertia bit is worked by the weight of the front guard/lever, as the saw kicks back or in the case of the saw in the video the saw stops when it hits the wood the energy or inertia of the weighted front handle throws it over the spring cam and applies the brake.

I use a Stihl MS180 for all manner of crap jobs, had it since 2006 it's been used hard, replaced a carb and all the lines and oil pump and that's about it untill the first time I took off the clutch!! I used a impact gun to undo it, worked well but after about two hours work the flywheel fell off(impact gun slackens off the flywheel nut, worth checking the flywheel nut after😠) new flywheel fitted. The next time I removed the clutch to replace the pump with a MS211 pump as it supplies more oil I used a hemp rope, worked well but got a bit of rope stuck in the port😒. On friday it stopped pumping oil, so once again I removed the clutch to check the drive but this time I used a piston stop, no fault? Drained the oil and the oil pipe was missing? somehow it had folded itself in half, replace the hose, cleaned up everything and rebuilt the saw. went to start it and no compression, the piston stop had put a HOLE in the piston. Not happy.

I'm no expert but the tooth looks wrong! the angle and shape of the right tooth looks strange. I also agree with Muddy42, get a sharpening kit and practice with that, the Stihl online instructions on how to sharpen a chain is very good. I thought that I could get a chain sharp but after the cross cutting course the instructors chains were silly sharp so I've now become OCD on hand filling, in the rare moments that I get it right it's worth the effort .

I've been cutting seasoned oak a couple of times in the last year and one bit was Turkey Oak(believe everything people say about it) the Stihl 3/8" x 0.063 semi chisel was throwing sparks in one bit of timber but the Stihl 3/8" x 0.043 Picco micro mini chain cut it no problem. The PMM3 also cuts very clean.

Thinking about what I've just typed, It's not quite correct, growth should spout from the pleachers at any point, but were they touch the ground they should root.

With what little I know, the stumps should have been cut at ground level and the pleachers laid low with most downward growth trimmed off. Any other growth weaved together and trimmed to a height just above the Pleachers. I was told the ideal way to lay pleachers is up hill, if that can't be done towards the sun. But if the growth is sparce but high the pleachers can be laid in either direction to fill gaps(a bit different if it's a competition). When the hedge has grown in 5/6 years then it can be laid in the correct direction. I was also though that the pleachers would only spout new growth were they touch the ground, like when Hazel is copiced and laid on the ground and staked.

I know it's a bit late for advice now, first off it's a bit late in the season to lay a hedge and you've already cut the hedge, but with a bit of planning it's possible (I've seen the skilled people do it) to lay fairly large trunks as a hedge, it's not as easy as it looks(people who know what they're doing always make it look easy). If you go on the Black Down Hedge Association home page http://bhha.info//Default.aspx and facebook page there is several photo's of various hedges being worked on by novices and experts alike. The end results are very good, most are Devon style which by the photo in your post might suit your hedge.

Haven't used their mains saws but I have a 9" grinder that is very powerful more so than any other grinder I've used so I suspect the electric motor side would be very good, I have got the 36v LXT battery saw (DUC305) that is between a Stihl MS 170 and the MS 180 and find it easier than a petrol saw for up to 8/10" firewood.

I've got a 240, runs a 15" better than a 16" bar but I'm running .325x.063" bar and semi chisel chain a 0.050 chain/bar would be better. it feels like a MS180 but a good one is way more powerful. Typical Pro Sthil saw in the way it runs, if you have to do any work on it, it's really easy to work on. I've got a MS180 & 036 and I'm a mechanic by trade the 180 & the 036 were what I thought they would be but the 240 is a far better saw than I thought. Of the three it's the easiest and best to use.

Stubby is correct there is no such thing as part time PPE. I only do part time for myself but feel lost if not wearing the correct gear. I've got Stihl trousers and can't fault them, but I suspect like all chainsaw trousers a bit of a pain to dry. Helmets, gloves and boots are whatever fits the best. As for ground work gloves I'm trying Beswift cut resistant gloves at the moment (most gloves don't last long) and for hawthorn etc Toolstation/Screwfix welders gloves.

I would still weld a full length of steel to each body rail to allow it to sit on the full length of the chassis rails to spread the load. it only needs incorrect hole sizes or holes drilled in the wrong place to crack a chassis. The flex mounts will be more important if you do weld as above because it'll make the body subframe stiffer and more prone to cracking.

Is the body rail inside the vehicle chassis rail, if so you'll have to weld sections to the body so the rails sit on top of the chassis rails. Cut off the body mounts and reweld them to line up with the chassis mounts. Leave a gap between the mounts so that a crushable spacer can be fitted to the four mounts at the rear of the chassis and I would fit spring loaded front mounts to the front. They are called Die springs from somewhere like WWW.Zoro.co.uk . If you don't allow some flex in the mounts it will crack.

Don't drill through the top flitch of the chassis it'll crack