Paddy1000111

61k now. The mesh back makes me think that it's not been loaded to the tits with gravel and hammered up hills. The whole thing looks brand new apart from the dings in the bed on the back. I checked and the service interval on these is 2 years/30,000 miles which is stupid and I've always serviced my cars at 6-8k. It probably had a service at 2 years, 22,000 ish then that one at 4 years/45000miles and the dealer has done a service 200 miles ago so it's within it's spec as I can't imagine they would have missed the first service but I don't like it haha!

That's the only thing that puts me off this van. There's no service history until 45,000 as it was a hire/lease vehicle and none of them come with service history. Same with any of the ex council vans. When I was doing a contract for them I got the use of their vans. They were absolutely anal about maintenance daily/weekly checks etc and wouldn't let it be on the road near it's service due date but they never had their books stamped. I might pop a boroscope down a few engine ports during the inspection and have a look at internals.

Thanks @Ratman I hope she's as good in person as she looks online, if it's anything like my dating past she wont 😂. In regards to rust I noticed that when I viewed one in London. I used to work in the motor trade until I was 18 and when I saw thick black shiny underseal in the drivers door of a 2016 my heart sank. I stuck a plastic biro through the footwell! This one looks absolutely spotless so I have at least a glancing hope that it's relatively rust free! I was going to order up some dinitrol rust converter and their chassis spray. After replacing the rear crossmember on the TD5 I am well versed in getting high as a kite on thinners! 😂

It's from Vanbase so a reputable company. I thought it sounded fine but just wanted additional opinions! I've got 14 days to return it and it comes with a 3 months warranty with the RAC who inspected it before coverage so I trust that they didn't miss stuff or it comes out their wallet. I got quoted £214 for a 12 month warranty after that with a £8000 per claim limit and a £17000 total claim limit so I think I will cover my arse and do that, saves stressing. A turbo, an injector or something could easily pay for the premium. On a side note has anyone got any experience with blanking the EGRs on these (I know the legalities but still)? I've done it on my TD5, xtrail and my Volvo and never looked back after cleaning a thick sooty mess out the intake pre blank! My next job is to find someone who makes good priced tool boxes for the chassis and cut the tipper down to get it on!

Just looking for the opinion of someone with a 2.2 transit (MK8 preferably). I'm meant to be doing a click and collect thing on a transit tomorrow and the dealer has sent me a video of the engine idling and some other videos. It's a cold engine, he revs it at 1:40, I noticed a diesel knock noise as the engine drops from higher rpm to idle. Can someone with a transit confirm if this is a normal noise? I know I get it with my TD5 defender as that has a "rough spot" between power and power off. I've got 14 days to return it and a 3 month warranty if it's off. I would have thought the RAC guy would have picked up the noise if it was an issue when he did his inspection but I guess the RAC inspection is only as good as the mech you get! Here's the vid: https://vimeo.com/517735265 Cheers!

Or if you post the reg in too many places they will know you're onto them and bin the van off etc

I think it's fine as long as it's a closed system. A gyro threaded into the bridge is a closed system, same as a ring. A carabiner would be an open system so you can connect two anchors to one ring but not two anchors via one carab to a ring

This is all a bit infuriating. I'm lucky not to be effected by it in Devon but I wonder how long I will have that pleasure. I can completely understand it for personal/commuting vehicles but to shaft people who need vans/lorries for work is crazy. I can't tow a tonne of chip and chipper behind a pushbike

Personally if you're only using it for smaller jobs/not very often I would get aspen and leave it in the container. If you're leaving it long enough to evaporate then the saw will thank you for not throwing in shite fuel. Stale petrol can cause good damage to saws, not just plastics but the metal moving parts too. Other option is buy one of the 5L stihl combi cans. I left mine in my hot car once and it looked like a pumpkin, went back to shape after a while but you won't have to worry about evaporation. I used to mix the fuel and also add some of the STABIL fuel storage stabiliser stuff, same as the briggs and stratton fuel preservative.

Well, how long does it take to make a cut like that? 10 seconds max? Do you stop for lunch and a battery swap? I don't do apple pruning on a commercial basis, last year I probably only did about 30-40? I didn't use a chainsaw for more than 10 minutes for all of them put together so I would be quite surprised if you did 40 minutes of finger on trigger cutting before lunch but like I said, I don't do commercial so I have 0 idea how you prune! 😂 Outside of that it's a 201c-m if you want petrol!

That's what I thought! A 200 seems to be massively overpowered for a wrist thickness limb. 1/4 chain should make a cleaner cut too

Yep, I have owned 2 fords now, a focus and a Volvo. tbh, I have never had a day where they didn't start. The biggest mess up was the turbo seal on the volvo going and it hitting about 15,000 rpm in a millisecond whilst melting the injectors to the head. I chucked it in 6th and stalled it out as it went full runaway and it blew the clutch up... Apart from that they have been golden. That focus I bought from a dealer and sold 2 years and 15,000 miles later for £200 less than I paid!

Out of interest, anyone know of any common issues with the 2015/16 transits? I can't really find anything online that points out a major common issue. Obviously the usual clutch checks and inspections, anything specific to look for?

Are the MSA 120's no good then? 200 size seems excessive for anything under 6"?

I can't imagine it will have that much of an effect unless you store your saw for a long time between uses. The ethanol can absorb moisture and it makes the fuel go stale sooner. It can make plastic parts harden, the clear fuel tubes are the worst, they seem to go amber/brown and then crack. Haven't seen it have much effect on rubber but I'm sure it does over time. At the end of the day new fuel lines are about £6 and a carb kit is about £15 so unless you're an occasional user who's storing fuel for long periods then it shouldn't have much of an effect. Otherwise switch to aspen!

Fast idle here too... (stihl M-tronic) The "choke" position is just fast idle. The chainsaw decides if it needs choke or not but it always starts in fast idle when cold

The only reason I went was because it already had the shortened back and a tool cab so I could have saved good money there on the conversion but it wasn't to be. When I was 12 I started working with a guy who fixed crash repair cars and I learnt a lot from him. Thank god I did, being able to pick up things like panel gaps or little specs of overspray made me look forward into the crash bar which was a little bent up. It also let me into the secret side of the motor trade and what to look for. A bit of black paint that was shinier than other stuff rang alarm bells. If it was a good price it wouldn't be a big deal but it was up for the same price as every other low mileage 15/16 transit so was a massive lemon. I have found one closer now so wish me luck 🤦‍♂️

I thought this. I originally made a "NTCP" certificate with tonnes of spelling mistakes but just did this instead then realised that my one comical spelling mistake just made me look dumb 😂 I was going to put "Unit 007- Milling- Wood Milling" but got distracted by the space 😂

That's too much power. I just wanted to skid around on food trays and pull off perfect handbrake turns to impress the girls 😂

Pfft. Boy racer. I put stickers on my car, the only proven way to gain HP.

Well, requirement over. Went to pick it up today as it was in london so a 3 hour drive each way. It was absolute garbage. Starter was shagged, had a crash on the f/o/s and the f/n/s, the drivers footwell was impressive. There's a plastic strip painted on by ford. Part of it was removed and replaced with underseal. I proded it with a plastic biro and it broke apart with rust. the suspension and drivetrain was rusty as hell, the rear bulkhead was rusty, the weight computer was broken, brake pipes corroded, no service history, wheels rusty and bubbling so they painted them over with hammerite that was dripping off the lug nuts... I could go on and on. I had an a4 list of issues before I even really got into the back. 2015, 57,000 miles. I guess they dipped it in the ocean before drying it off with salt. I wouldn't be so angry if they didn't make it sound good over the phone. It was a commercial vehicle company too. Feel sorry for the person who buys that POS

Sounds like it's worth removing then as opposed to keeping. Can you sell tachos on? It looks like a good condition VDO digitach in perfect working order

Yea, that's what I got from the rules. I wonder what the second hand tacho market is like. More than anything I was curious about if it's legally required that I use it if it's fitted

That's 95% of my driving... 😂 I can't forsee any circumstance where I would ever need one. I know the rules around towing and tacho's and I am always within the tacho free radius of base so it is completely surplus to requirements. I just know nothing of tachos and the info is hard to come by. Having a little mystery black box that's causes issues sounds like a no for me. Plus I don't intend on applying for a tacho card etc from the DVLA

Sorry, I'll go for a deeper dig! I just wanted to know if I was required to use it which I can't really find on the DVLA website as they talk about when I am required to use it. Also want to know if I can take it out easily without issues.