Paddy1000111

If it happens I will make sure to post the video up on here 😂 Pulling the chipper out in a cloud of smoke already sounds like a hilarious gender reveal video 😂

Well, I was thinking of this pin pulling system which would just be a switch. You can get 12V delay timers on ebay for pennies. Wire in a buzzer and a ~6 second delay I think

Maybe one of these on each side of the door... 😂 This airsoft stuff is so cheap it's too easy!

I'm sticking with smoke grenades and maybe some flash bangs for fun 😂

This is why I'm focussing on trailer security inside. Just fit a lockbox to deter anyone with bolt croppers or an angle grinder and then have all the security hidden. I should be able to do a full remote camera/alarm with cell phone alerts and a smoke system for about £230. Outside of that I might weld some big rings to the unit to lock in the trailer, fit a decent hitch lock or wheel clamp too (probably the clamp). All that should make it take over 8 minutes depending how thick the smoke is. With the ease of making a smoke system I could have a delay between each cannister going off. They won't be carrying respirators and gear to see in the smoke so unlocking the trailer and removing a wheel clamp in dense smoke in the dark will be impossible. I only really want the camera so that I can see if it's a false alarm This is actually a very good idea... I already have electric fencing down there! 😂 Might mess with the PIR/cell system though...

I was thinking about the hinges. I was wondering about fitting some rivnuts down the door on the hinge sinde and threading some bolts with heads cut off into them then drill receiver holes in the door frame. Bit like a vault door how the hinges don't do anything with the door shut.

We are lucky where we are. No vehicle thefts, robberies or break ins apart from about 20 years ago. I think part of the reason the units are okay by us is they are 12ft from the house next door. When we had stuff go missing a long, long time ago it was because the cheapo padlock was cut with croppers and they snuck off with a strimmer. Luckily I have enough storage at home for all the small bits its just the trailer. I would leave it in the neighbours garage but I have to park my car in front of it which means that I have to move it every time I want it out so I have to move my car, get the chipper, put the car back, hook the chipper to the van etc etc.

I know nothing is impervious, I just want to make it hard for someone with a bolt cutter, disc cutter or drill to get in so they give up or just don't bother. I want to make it so that they won't bother unless they are organised and if they are organised I want it to take long enough that I can do something about it.

Do you think these are better than the lock box like my previous post? I'm lucky as the back and sides are completely covered in so there is no chance of getting a trailer out the side unless you bring a digger and remove a 6ft bank and dig out some telegraph poles (and a load of asbestos sheet).

Well yea, It is obviously insured and has trackers fitted but I would rather not be without a chipper, having to put in a police report for stolen gear and trying to make claims on insurance that will get more expensive afterwards. I would rather be off work a couple of days explaining to the police how the axe sticking out the back of the blokes skull was self defence

Funnily enough, those and the EG18's are the ones I was looking at!

That's what I'm concerned about. Nice thing about those ones that ring you is it's instant and then you can silence/disarm it by pressing * or # on the phone so I could turn it off straight away so if it goes off at night it's only a 30 second issue as it will be unarmed and empty during the day. Hopefully that's enough to mean the potential robbers don't work flat out and get away before I arrive. I found one with a built in camera too which would be good as it sends photos instantly to your phone so they can't run off with it or destroy it. With the smoke grenades I was thinking about 3/4 tied together tied to a linear actuator. A proximity switch mounted on the door and a little key to arm/disarm. If it's armed and the switch on the door closes it will pull the pins out the grenades. I could even use 2 smoke and 2 flash bang from the airsofters. Smoke grenades can be swapped for M67 Frags if it becomes an ongoing issue 😂

Sounds like something I'd do. I've been looking at large smoke grenades mounted and wired to the door somehow. Those security fog machines are expensive and most need AC power and a pre-existing security system

This is all getting quite home alone. Might as well just hook a poacher alarm to it with some buck shot loaded into it instead 😂. Knowing my luck I'll blow myself up being dopey one morning 😂😂

Well, this is all part of the plan. I just need to delay them long enough maybe a maximum of 5 minutes from the door opening so I can get there.

Maybe I will weld some 5mm steel plate over the lifting points or just tape them up and fill them with some old epoxy resin I have in the shed. I like the idea of the rod inside the scaffold bar. I never thought of that. The PIR system has a remote for arm/disarm hence it sends an instant alert and not a x minute delay when it goes off. Anyone got any advice as to the best hitch lock/wheel clamps etc? I was tempted to change the tow head for a pin type to make it harder to nick as not everyone has a pin hitch but if I want to lend it out occasionally then there's also the issue of not everyone has a pin hitch 😂

Thanks for all the replies. The place I'm going to put it means it will be jammed between a barn and a dense hedge/row of trees so side/back access would be impossible. They may be able to get in but they can't get the trailer out. The left hand side of the container will be about 8ft from the next door neighbours house wall so attacking it with angle grinders without alerting anyone would be almost impossible. I'll look at the smoke system and I need to find out from the PIR company if they work from inside a container, signal wise. Basically I want to make it hard enough to get into that simple thieves wouldn't bother and I want it to make it take long enough to steal the chipper that I could get down there if someone more advanced got in. Outside of that the tracker takes over. I've got generators, water pumps, honda f550 tillers and stuff that has been down there for years behind a flimsy wooden door that had a £5 Lidl lock on it and never had a break in.

Sadly I feel it's the same with any barn etc too. My farmer friends have had tractor mount tillers etc stolen and they dissapear of the face of the earth. I was hoping that by adding one or two of these it would at least extend the process/time. This just leaves the hinges really!

There are people who live next door and it will be about 10ft from their house so anything that makes too much noise would be obvious to them. I once put a mast ontop of one of the little storage bits and had complaints the next day that the wire was tapping on the tin roof so they have owl like hearing 😂 The alarm I found rings a phone and sends a text immediately when it goes off which is all that matters really. So far I've only had one break in over 20 years there and I have chainsaws, big honda tillers and all sorts sat in those sheds. How did they break into yours @rookery My hope is that the chipper being secured, locked in and tracked should mean it's pretty unstealable. I'd never leave carry able items in there though. Things go into a van and disappear far too easily!

Oxy-acetylene? I only want it for a chipper and then some bee hive parts so nothing easy to chuck in a van and go. The chipper is gps/vhf tracked anyway. My hope was to put a lock box on so the padlock isn't easily cut and then fit the PIR so I get an alarm when the doors are opened. If I have a trailer hitch lock or maybe a motorbike chain lock so I can chain it to the container my hopes are it gives me enough time to get there as it's a roughly 3 minute drive and it's a one way road so they would either meet me or I know where they went.

Hi Everyone, I'm thinking of getting a shipping container to put the chipper in as using the garage owned by the people across the road isn't the most convenient and I feel bad making a noise in the morning moving things about. I have land but it's away from home (only a mile) so I was going to get a shipping container. Apart from the lock boxes so you can't access the padlock has anyone got any security advice? I've been looking at a PIR system that has a sim in it so it can call if it notices any movement but the hinges look like a weak point?

Cut from the same type, not the same tree stubs 😉

I'd say the lighter stuff was dead standing?

I guess it comes down to husky Vs Stihl. If you want an outboard go with husky, if you want an I/b go with Stihl. It's not like they spec a Stihl 261 with an I/b or o/b clutch. I prefer I/b clutch mainly because of ease of maintenance. If I wear through a drive sprocket I don't need an impact gun to get the clutch off or take the spark plug out to put a piston stopper in. If I'm out in the field and I'm clearing brash out the way to fell something and get a load of bailer twine (F'n farmers) wrapped around the drive sprocket I can use my scrench to take off the sprocket/clutch/bearing if needed (or send the e-clip into a low earth orbit never to be seen again, whatever I fancy). I regularly take my clutch drum off, clean the bearing and regrease it (once every 2 weeks-one month depending) as I have before taken it off to find that bailer twine got wrapped around the shaft and melted the plastic bearing carrier. The only time I need to remove the clutch is to change shoes/springs but I have yet to have the need! On the chain brake front I haven't noticed much of a difference between the I/b and o/b version in the repair sense. One plastic cover and it's all exposed. On the other hand inspecting the chain brake is easier on an o/b clutch but it's not impossible on an I/b. When changing chains though, having to hoop the chain over the clutch then hook it into the bar is a pain in the ass. I can change a chain on my 261 whilst holding the saw with one hand and fitting the bar with the other, something I can't do on a o/b clutch. Having to disengage the chain brake and then having to get the other side of the handle into the hole in the frame, whilst lining up the bar studs whilst simultaneously balancing the bar is also annoying. When I think about the practicalities of an I/b clutch, the worry about a slight bit more force on the crank kind of goes out the window. We're talking a few mm here not miles. For me, the I/b outweighs the o/b as the only advantage of an o/b is carrying an extra chain brake with you but I've never broken one, all the rest seems down to theoretical physics

I guess if you ever cut your legs you will automatically have a tourniquet fitted, they're labelled as "leg straps" in the manual 😂