Echo

That's not fine, there is a build up of what ever in the corner of the drum. Something is holding the drum in the wrong position relative to the clutch that spins around, it could actually be a fault in the machining from new, sometimes there is a slip up make, a part not held in the correct position for machining, or the machining set wrong in relation to where it should be, am thinking the shaft, the shoulder on it or what ever stops the nut from pushing the clutch too far back thus keeping it tight, and the drum could be sitting too far back from the mounted clutch shoes because of a measuring / machining error. I don't think you should be wearing out bearings that quick, but the drum riding on the side of the brake shoes wont help, it could not be good, looking at the shoes they are pushing side ways against the bearing and clutch drum, that is not designed to work in that manner at all, there should be no side thrust worth talking about involved in the clutch bearing set up.

Like a PS64 sticker on a 7900, makes a bad day for stihl and husky guys when they see what your 64cc machine can do.

It doesn't take much to melt it, there is a very short lid on the outlet so it cant deflect the heat in the right direction, but a very easy fix, there is only a few screws holding on the deflector, one could easily take it off and make another or have someone tig weld a nicely shaped piece over or onto the existing deflector lip, that would ensure the heat got directed away and past the flag position, I can't say for sure but the Echo 501sx deflector might be a straight swap, if not it would be real easy to drill the mounting holes to make it fit, as you have the original deflector to measure off. They are nice saw, I would be very happy with one.

Make sure to keep an eye on the plastic flag near the exhaust, there was an issue with the exhaust melting them, some people made deflectors to point the gases away from the affected area, but Echo may have addressed the matter and modified the outlet of the muffler. The melting issue is mentioned here, and also some good info on taking out the cat, that takes away a lot of heat from where its not wanted.

Make sure to keep an eye on the plastic flag near the exhaust, there was an issue with the exhaust melting them, some people made deflectors to point the gases away from the affected area, but Echo may have addressed the matter and modified the outlet of the muffler.

There is a dealer for Stiga in the UK, they are acutually based on the Makita, the 386 and the 466 are, so you should be able to get certain / mechanical parts from a Makita, the dealer will let you know what parts he keeps before buying. EDIT, I see the op got sorted.

Yep, there is a lot to it, material type and grade used, tools required can differ, more steps require more time, even using the mag piston, that takes less energy to melt, and is quicker to get out of the molds than aluminium, its also easier on the molds so they last longer, two items may look the same but be very different.

I nearly had a moment there, I read your post without looking what it reffered to, for a moment I though echo invented the nut on the end of the crank.

Seem to got one thing right, the nut, I hope they change that to a spring clip for real convenience, it would make checking the bearing and removing the drum for inspection so much easier. I see they have an auto choke model in their line too.

Wish I had the option to buy from my local.

No is not a srick, echo'd the wrong word, ssupid shise

The Stihl in the video was not using their biggest battery either, so there is more in store. You should also have more outlets for backup for the Stihl.

Echo's Three saw plan, 50cc 60cc and 73.5cc, hard to turn your nose up at that lot.

Absolutely, had three of the 501 sx saws, never used the others, the 621 would be nice, so would the bigger saw if one had the requirement, and no at or mt.

My post above looks odd, quoted the previous poster and added my content, looks like got combined as its not in a new post at all. So here it is again, I would take it for a 40cc any day. Echo does seem to be downgrading their models, the P used to denote Professional, there used to be a CS352P, its been replaced by a CS3510, they don't say its a pro build in their marketing now either, its happening to other models too, including the 4910. Looks like they are bing hit with corporate demands for more profits, they still have a few pro models left, for how long though, the bigger CS7310 CS621 and the CS501 seem to be have been left alone.

Have seen for sale in the EU too, there is a video comparison of it and the CS501, go for the 501, the video says they are the same engine, oil pump is different, the 501 is a marvel of engineering, they did not note at all that the difference in the cranks, stating they were the same, if memory serves me, there is a nut to hold the clutch on the 501, didn't see one on the 4910. Plug lead is different, cheaper cover, think bar plates are not hardened stainless like on the 501 either.

I believe from 2022 Stihls will be coming in twin blister packs, disposable, the forest services are behind it 100%, hiring litter wardens.

Dam, I thought it was a tripod mount, for Husqvarna fans to glote at their saws when they are not in the repair shop.

Make sure clutch is not binding and when you pull the cord your trying to drive the chain, look nothing disintegrated in at the oil pump drive too. Other than that, take off they cylinder, its dry looking in there, maybe carbon is on the move, maybe you got a ring locating pin coming out, its better to look in there, when the cylinder is off you can examine all, and see how the crank bearings are.

Here is a video showing the same, the video makes it clear what setting the saw to its fastest idle position is, this is done after you set the initial h and l settings. here is also a link in the event the video doesn't play, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RbnjlQGmFIQ