Echo

Here is a manual that outlines how to set carbs on a lot of echo engines EchoCarbAdjustmentTableEurospec.pdf

The ilde keeps the saw running, no way you would need it set high just to keep a saw that was close to being set right with the low and high running. Did you watch the video linked, it clears up any misinterpretations given in the echo carb adjustment manual.

Something is not right, the carb needs to be in good clean condition and no fuel line or filter problems, same with air filter, did the carb get a full kit recently.

Thanks for the comments all, had a look at those Active brand, 62.62 60cc seems like a runner at 5.8 kg, prices too high for what is an unknown brand really. Might try something from the Emak stable, there are a few of the oleo mac 962 models still available, parts seem to be plentiful, I see there newer replacements are a little heavier, and don't look as strong a runners either, sadly. If Dolmar would come out an state what thy are doing in regard to production there would be possibly a Dolmar coming my way, but not playing ball until I see the goals are in the right place.

Noted from a youtube stiga video, the magnesium case is good for 800 hours of work, never seen any manufacturer put a time limit on a saw case, are they trying to tell potential customers something.

Check if your throttle linkage is binding up on anything, also is the carb good, cleaned and free from dirt or water, is your fuel good. Did you take off the muffler and look at the condition of the cylinder, rings, and piston, you should be able to see quite a lot through the exhaust port when the muffler is off, just to be sure there is no damage in there.

Screw the high needle out a turn, then go to the low and get it where your not happy with the throttle response, its a bit slow an not as zippy as you like, don't try and hold the throttle expecting or allowing the high to help, you need to get the saw to rev up / respond using the low first, so when your at the point the low is almost as you would like it you wont have far to go to get it right, take it out a 1/16 at a time until your happy, make sure you allowed the saw to warm up first before screwing at the carb, also let the nose of the saw drop towards the ground quickly and listen for a change in engine tune, if its too rich it will dull down in tone, if it does screw it in a little bit, rev it a time or two, let idle, and dump the bar tip towards the ground again, if no change in engine note / speed, and your idle is ok, no chain spin but good throttle response, then you are close on the low side, adjusting the low out will bring idle down, and in will let it creep up again, just keep that in mind as you adjust the low you will vary the idle a bit and may need to revisit the idle screw. When your happy with low response and idle, then screw the high needle out until your four stroking when you go for full throttle and hold it for a second or two. You should be pretty close at this point, remember that you will find a spot in the throttle response as you come from low to high needle, where there will be a kick of power as you gradually pull the throttle slowly from low to full throttle, not a dull spot between low and full throttle, you want a gradual progression or a little kick, you probably wont notice the kick in normal use but you may when you slowly go from low to full throttle. When you have a nice four stroking sound listen to the saw as you come off four stroking, it may die a little as it goes to idle and come right back to idle fine, this dip is a sign of a little too much fuel on the high needle, but its safer to have the saw four stroking a little strong and the excess fuel coming from high to idle dipping the saws engine note, you can work that out a shade at a time, ensuring your still four stroking. Don't try and set the carb perfect until your cutting wood, its a balancing act, it takes fuel to produce power, some people think leaning out a saw creates more power, be careful with that, you will certainly get more speed, but that's not power. EDIT, make sure the fuel and air filter is clean, and the spark screen is clean, and your fuel tank is half to 3/4 full. Also note, you could have the saw well tuned with it nice and warm, and fail to run when started from cold, it starts but dies when you come off high idle, simply adjust the idle up if this happens, it usually does not happen if your settings are good, but it can do, if so before moving all your settings, turn up the idle a little, and see if you get started and running, and when warm tweak your settings a little to get the result you want.

Being able to run in rain should be catered for, though I doubt any have this ability yet. I was thinking of selling my small saws and going battery, and the idea of not being able to run in the wet in an emergency put an end to the idea.

Do we know that Dolmar are stopping? By which I mean did we clear up whether it's Dolmar and Makita or just Makita brand which will have no more petrol? Don't think we quite got to the bottom of it last time so interesting if you have an update. Good point, I thought the Dolmar dealer would have inquired if Dolmar are following Makita in the matter. I have a feeling they will, and are not saying anything to hurt their ongoing sales, one would think if Dolmar intended to keep producing Petrol chainsaws they would take advantage of their parent companies decision to stop to boost their sales by stating they will be keeping on producing, all we can do is read between the lines until proven otherwise.

Like some of the Dolmar/Makita saws, made in China with good QC. Sadly they are stopping production of petrol saws. Efco are about the only outfit left other than the big Two.

Am going to ring the dealer looking for parts, that way I will get an idea of whether to stay away or take punt. There are more parts in the UK, but this mess with import duty delays and vat is a neusence. Maybe I need a polish girl, teach me the language and start an import business, things seem much cheaper there.

Here is a stock 7310 vs a ported one, they take a good while to break in, might also benefit from tying your tail to something heavy.

Sorry to hear you had a low life caller. The little I have seen of them is on line, seem to run fine, parts here in Ireland don’t seem to pop up in searches, 5.3 kg for 2.4 kw is not the worst, the kw is likely restricted for emissions and might come up with a mod. Can’t see any bigger saws in their listings.

Lots of good choices in tat size, 572 really doing well, the Echo too, and the 462 is no dud either, the 500i will certainly appeal to so some too, apparently it uses extra fuel to Rev limit, if true then that would make it thirstier than need be, maybe they will address this with an update.

Hi everyone, wondering if these cheaper saws are any good, the 526 has a mag case, not a clam shell either, and the little top handle seems capable, what you all think, do or don’t.

I would take the Echo, or even the Dolmar 7300. Simple to work on saws, and if you have a good relationship with your dealer, parts won’t be a problem, some will even take a part off a new saw to get you going, or loan you something. The 572 have really proven to be a good saw, the 500i seems reliable, but it does have a soft anti vibe, and it’s really thirsty, a few Germans had to park them up, they are not allowed to use pump gas, only the canned stuff, even in the states there have been complaints on how thirsty they are, the 572 being a lot easier, it’s carrying all that gas so you don’t have to track back for another can that made a few change to the Husky, suppose it depends on your situation. Or you could get an Echo 621 or 620 and have it ported, those saws have a very good track record. How about an MS400 Stihl, there’s a few videos on YouTube that show them hard at work, they have Mtronics though

Well if I can imagine it the manufacturers certainy should be able to, and deliver the tolerances required. Granted they do a great job, but there is room for improvement.

The chainsaw really has not changed in ages, I imagine with the modern technology, computerised control and automation should be able to manufacture and bring together complimenting components into kits to be assembled, anyone remember the colour coded cam shafts and bearings, there is really no reason for such anymore.

Well yes, but these guys have state of the art machinery to begin with, am sure it is calibrated regurally once a certain threshold is reached. I think poor tolerances are something that the chinese clones should only have issues with, not manufacturers who have been doing if for 50 years. Maybe am just old school, if its worth doing its worth doing right kind of mindset.

Porters can only cut squish and base, theres no reason the saw makers cant to the same, most of this is automated, it should be possible to measure bores and actually finish a piston to suit that bore, there are not a lot of moving parts in a chainsaw.

Very true, some want long life. And as mentioned above softer wood is a great place for more speed. Ported saws definitely have a place in the hands of busy cutters, lighter too than moving up in models, annoying the manufacturers cant send them out making max power from the get go.

The Ghosting I mention is not evident in Makita or Echo or Husky stratified saws, it seems to be a Stihl thing.

I will never understand why speed is so critical to some. Its only going to be held there for a very short time until it gets pulled down under load and that is where torque is important. Torque is also important for pulling through tight spots when you alsmost dont make it, and get your bar pinched. Reliability also suffers with speed, bearings start to slide instead of role, more clearance is needed, and high grade lubricating systems employed, adding more lube on its own will only cause it to build up like a wall in front of the bearing and make it slide. There is a reason Husqvarna and Stihl and Echo and Makita dont make outright screamers, some tried, and lots of people had lots of trouble because of it.

I think the magnesium piston is to address other issues, it being lighter is only a marketing thing. There was ghosting on the pistons of a lot of the new Stihl strato saws, I figure we wont see any with the magnesium piston and what ever coating is on it, as it will be harder to wear.