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AJStrees

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Everything posted by AJStrees

  1. I've got a 36" lopro bar which I run on my 365xtorq, not a huge amount but it hasn't ever struggled. Thanks Dan good to know. I think a lopro is going to be the way to go for my milling until I can upgrade to a bigger saw. Don't want to use the 572xp for milling its a bit new and posh.
  2. I would think Pholiota as the others have said, Armillaria mellea would surely have a very clear ring on the stipe. Unless its a different version or Armillaria.
  3. Hey up!. The army cadet base is still there, if that's what you mean. Been at Crowborough over 20 years now. Lots of new housing being built near mine. Planning was approved for 156 new homes 2 years ago. Big thing in the papers at the time. On the subject of milling. What is the longest bar anyone is or has used for milling with a 365 Special? and what mill were you using? Panther, Alaskan, etc.....?
  4. Nice, what bar and chainsaw are you using in the photos?
  5. Nice milling. What kit are you using there? I have a fairly small mill and some big logs to mill up so I need to upgrade soon so looking to see what others are using that won't cost me an arm and a leg.
  6. A few from recent. Black bulgar (Bulgaria inquinans on fallen beech. I would say. Versicolor is it? Jelly ear if I’m not mistaken
  7. Do you pin the boards down Mick when using them or do they pretty much not move if you drive carefully?
  8. Best time to do the bigger cuts on the tree is winter once the leaves have fallen and once the temperature has gotten a bit lower. Then I would take off the long leader that you have arrowed. Remove any crossing branches or any damaged branches. Don't leave stubs if you can avoid it. You want to create an open centre tree and you also don't need lots and lots of main branches in the crown, you want to keep a nice tidy tree that has enough air and enough space within the crown, this also helps prevent disease, canker and fungus which in a fruit tree is pretty important to avoid having. Your fruit will be better with more space and air between the branches. Depending on the species, the trees can be pretty hardy and if pruned in winter you will get better results and less likely to cause it harm. Bearing in mind that you have to wait for new fruit buds to be produced on the tree once you have new growth, but if you only want a few apples then that will probably be fine. As above, a good mulch, if you can use well rotted woodchip that's good.
  9. Nice looking specimen though. Like the mulching.
  10. This beech came down in one of the many storms last year. Have left it to see how it progresses. It was certainly hollowing at the base. These tidy little numbers had popped up a few weeks back. Anyone know what this fungi is? Also at the base of a pine. Sparassis crispa I would say.
  11. That's an excellent accomplishment and acknowledgement for your work over the last 35 years I would say David. Although I am quite new to this platform. Within just over a year I have learned a lot more about many subjects and one of those is certainly tree health and fungi and that is definitely inspired by your good self. As well as going on a walk at Hampstead Heath with the Ancient Tree Forum which certainly gave me a much better insight to tree care and arb and you led the walk. Thanks David (I'm a fan).
  12. Was going to say it looked like an early developing Fistulina. Thanks for confirming David.
  13. This collapsed rather over stood sycamore coppice had a number of fungi associated with it. I am quite sure of 2 of them, but not sure about the yellow mushrooms at the base. Anyone want to fill me in or give me a good pointer? could be something quite simple.
  14. I concur it definitely looks like Nothofagus.
  15. Found this young oak with interesting morphological characteristics. Small stem at base. Crown gall and the much thicker girth on top.
  16. Yeah I just looked at a list and took a guess.
  17. Started practicing a bit of milling. Some lime wood. Will see how it goes. Good fun though.

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