Dan Maynard

Online that seems to be a good price, just been going through that as Esso stopping the ethanol free and think I'll start using ethanol treatment instead.

I was going to say get the basic chainsaw maintenance crosscut and fell tickets, it's a fun course and it'll make you safer with a saw. For hedges, small trees etc crack on - anything bigger then make friends with local tree surgeons. You won't have the gear or people to make it efficient, makes a lot more sense to collaborate. I know a few people now that do lawns, gardens, when people ask me about gardening I just refer them because I don't know anything about it, likewise they refer me trees.

Oregon, or as an alternative take a look at Englebert Strauss. Think £200 will be a struggle, you'll have the cheapest of the cheap which will not last well.

That kind of thing, yes.

I'm waiting for madmaxtree to say something that isn't very generic before forming an opinion.

If you hit a stone badly on an old chain then bin it. I actually have some semi chisel Rotatech chains for the job so they are easy to sharpen for small dings but if I hit something big I'm not going to spend 20 minutes sharpening it, just bin and move on.

That's a good point, especially if the chains a bit blunt so that it's not biting in well, saw will rev up high.

Bit like there's money in a bag of flour if you sell it as cakes, it's a raw material which needs a lot of work. Local selling pages, FB, network neighborhood. I can't see what's around the tree though, looks like a fair bit of work to dismantle so probably cost money to do.

I think spark erosion is the best/only way to drill it out, but may be more expensive than a new hub.

Yup, church outing so not even any beer. Don't remember/admit to it very often but this thread brought it all back.

Sounding bit like a trench going through. Looking at a Scots pine today which has developed a lean, seems mysterious to the owner but a few years since driveway installed about 3m from the tree. People don't seem to think the roots do anything, when they're in the way of a building project.

Urban sycamores get bashed about because it's too big a tree for a city garden. I would guess it's been cut back hard some years ago and the narrow fork has happened because of the sprouting response to that. Check for other similar narrow forks, if you don't feel confident to recognise then get someone in.

I think it will have a cat, which do apparently get hot.

We could start a new thread but probably be less popular. I saw Cliff Richard at Wembley in about 1990, church group outing which I went on as fancied my mates older sister. Nothing happened, Cliff was Cliff.

Try the repair, worst outcome is a bit of oil leak again. I've got some "Petro patch putty" on my Spitfire radiator that I stuck on in about 1995 halfway down France , has maybe started to leak a bit now but I would recommend it as easy to use and strong. It's reinforced epoxy so will bridge the hole and designed for fuel and oil leaks. As above I'd rub/wire brush the outside so you're not just sticking it to paint.

It depends what it is, doesn't it? One of the things mentioned a while back is all the really cheap/value ranges disappeared so pasta went from 45p to 85p for the lowest income people. It's the old 'typical shopping basket' that nobody actually buys.

Can't see root flare, is it under the grass or under the soil? Seems to me needs to be something big to take out so much of the tree, root excavation/damage?

If you ask L&S they'll get parts that aren't listed, needed a new switch for my Makita saw recently, when I emailed in they added it to the website.

I'm less sure on a 201 though, consensus seems to be most of the gain available is from opening the exhaust outlet bigger, then a bit more from a small timing advance. If you need a lot more power get an MS400 sent up.

Without seeing the rest of the tree difficult to comment but one option to avoid removing a stem is suppress it (shorten one so it grows slower and the other becomes dominant). Beech quite often multistemmed but also sometimes fail at forks so possibly a good idea to do something sooner.

L&S list cylinder and piston at £41, seems like buying a compression tester bit of a waste you might as well just treat it to a new cylinder every ten years whether it needs it or not. If the rest of the saws ok of course...

Lady in our village has opened a small deli on three afternoons a week, quality really good and prices to match. Seems pretty busy so far though, we've bought some stuff because it's good, and if you factor in not driving to the supermarket the price is not bad either. She has charcoal which comes from Norfolk, apparently the supplier uses their own wood so provenance guaranteed, whereas other suppliers she tried couldn't or didn't answer when asked where the wood was from as quite a bit is imported. I could probably find out where it's from but working away at the moment.

If you've got 30 boards I'd be trying to wholesale them, yes the price per board will be half but you sell them all in one load. Selling 30 one at a time seems likely to take a long time before you get the money, and a lot of your time invested. Think @Squaredy might be interested but the issue will be cost of transport.

Give it a few weeks and the brown will spread if it's DED. I think the most positive ID comes from the beetle egg galleries under the dead bark, but round here it would be a very rare elm that got bigger than that without DED so is most likely candidate.

Wasted / spent a while around his site dreaming of becoming a scythe master in the summer instead of climbing trees when it's too hot. Straw hat, bottle of pop, dog named Spot, what more do you need? ETYMOLOGICAL NOTE The word snath can be spelt about as many ways as the name Shakespeare: snaith, snathe and snead are the most common variants. The Oxford English Dictionary gives ten different spellings which it says are "irregular and difficult to account for". The word comes from the word snead or sned , meaning a lopped pole or branch from a tree, and a snedding axe is still the term for the tool used for limbing felled trees. It is related to the German schneiden, to cut. The US pronunciation (which is what I use) rhymes with US pronunciation of the word "bath" or the English word "hath". In the UK, as well as the US pronounciation, I have heard snathe (to rhyme with bathe), snaith (to rhyme with bathos), sned (to rhyme with bed), sneed (to rhyme with bead), and snuth (to rhyme with the Northern bath), but never snarth (to rhyme with the upper-class bath).