Steven P

Put a load of apple trees in the woods (spares I didn't need, some grown from seed) - and they did OK till I mowed a path through the nettles to take a look and see what they were like. Went back the next week, all the leaves eaten off them and a very full deer sat underneath one thanking me for the free meal and handy access route. Got a plan for a row of hawthorn on some spare ground near the road - far enough away though that they won't get trimmed, renimnds me, I should go out and harvest the seeds for them (it is a longer term plan...)

8 hours squatting to 1 baby bell to 1 fire ?

I reckon in 5 to 10 years they will all be recycled Siemens Gamesa pioneers wind circularity: launch of world’s first recyclable wind turbine blade for commercial use offshore WWW.SIEMENSGAMESA.COM Wind power is one of the cornerstones in the quest to tackle the climate emergency. With more than 200 GW of new offshore capacity projected by the Global Wind Energy Council to be... ... which should have an effect on everything else that uses fibreglass being recyclable too

You gave the forum 8 hours in the middle of the working day to send you an answer...... Patience is a virtue, let us get home from work, have a brew and put the computer on

Same here, cheap and cheerful. When Aldi start selling them it is time to light the fire. If you want you can splash out on those twisted bits of wood, at about £5 a shot, all green and what ever. Could go old school and make small kindling with an axe and knife, slower than a fire lighter but nothing nasty in there, or just go cheap and cheerful. I often wondered whether a milk carton would go through a domestic paper shredder, shred them over the year and use them, but haven't experimented with that... yet....

Similarly - 2 stacks on the drive at the end of the summer (this year, next year), and move 'this year' under cover in September / October

My sweep has a long ladder and access to the roof..... (not sure how he would go about having a cowl on the chimney, never been on the roof to look but I guess it can be taken off relatively easily)

Space: If you split them all now you might be able to use them next winter (depending on species, location, and 100 other things). If you stack them and split them later in the year, maybe after using this seasons fuel they maybe won't be ready till the winter after... you will still need a stack of logs for next winter... or 2 stacks instead of 1. Processing your own firewood is a balancing act between cost (cheapest to do your own) against the time it takes, drying space, equipment needed, and so on

split one in half and you'll see how far the water has gone in, If they are really really wet then it will only be the ones on the outside that are, inside the pile will be reasonably dry - I often return the soaking ones to dry next summer and use the inside of the pile, often though take out the middle of the pile to a dryer store, make up a new stack with the outside edges and these will be dry given a few weeks of dry weather

If you are unsure and don't want it next time you are passing Glasgow I can give it a home.... I think that is my answer - given a choice of a tonne of this, tonne of that I might be selective but,,,, it burns when dry, being a softwood the heat comes out of it quick - short hot fires and needing refuelling often, and I wouldn't say no to it. Consensus or opinion on this forum recently appears to be that a mix of woods is probably the best way to go and here poplar would fit right in the mix, but still, on it's own, in a stove, go for it

Used to do the same when I took kids away on overnight expeditions - first port of call was the accident book to see where the dangers were

"Dried Firewood for Outdoor Pizza Ovens", think that should cover it.

.. mostly so long as the central heating isn't pumping the room full of 25 degree heat of course..... a cooler kitchen and this is very true of course (not gong there but this is the argument against LED light bulbs - in the winter when we need light all day, we also want heat all day.... which is the 'waste' product of a traditional bulb - all depends how you look at stuff) Anyway, are there any log powered fridges out there?

(anything that makes heat of makes cold costs loads, unless anyone one knows of a log powered fridge yet?)

I suspect that those with a knowledge of the regulations will be changing the wording of their ads - the householder who thinks their recently felled tree is worth more than gold will just keep selling it as 'firewood'. Not sure how you would go if you just said 'logs' and never mentioned a use (bugs, firewood, decorative, garden and so on). 2 cu m is a big bug house though - if 'they' decide to come after you then whatever the description I think the quantity will be the proof needed for their intended use.

If you look at the top of the page you will see 'tip sites', put your details into that. Always worth asking about far and wide, some people have instant success with the tip sites, others don't so worth checking your local tree surgeons too.

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Aluminium - will be very light weight and a lot of camping kettles are (because of that weight carrying it 3m, from car to tent is too much). Not sure about the reaction between aluminium, steel (or iron), heat and water - is this happening were the kettle usuall sits? I'd wire brush off all the discolouration and monitor what is happening,

You sure about that?.... As for the logs, it can be hit or miss. I look at it as the people who work in your area regularly will have somewhere to tip their waste sorted, those that don't often might be having to drive theirs back to a base miles away - and it is these that the tip site is great for. Might be that you get loads of 'outsiders' working in your area, might be the local companies get all the work. People do get logs through tip site but I wouldn't be banking all my winter heating on it.

Like the rod idea, could have done with that a couple of years ago when my baffle plate needed replacing - it wasn't sitting on the lugs any more

If you are careful I guess you can do this technically, take enough bricks out the chimney to let you have access to install the liner and then put the bricks back in again after?

For this year you might have to suffer and pay for some dry firewood, but while you are at it, keep warmer by splitting and stacking what you have outside. As above, there is a lot of water in wet logs that will be making your house damp as they dry - you'll have to have the windows opened to get rid of that which kind of reduces the heat from the fire

Has this tree ever had any work done on it before, not sure but cut back to where the trunk splits all at one point, maybe a few years ago now, Cherry trees do grow back quite happily .

My chimney comes out the top and not the back but the stove will do both, my baffle plate is 'L' shaped with the 'L' angle about 135 degrees. Horizontal at the top and sloping downwards at the back to rest on a ledge just above the fire bricks. I don't think these are precision designed. might be wrong of course. I think the baffle plate slows the exhaust of uncombusted gasses up the chimney and creates some vortexes so that these gasses can burn - and that improves the efficiency. (again, I might be wrong, but that's how it works in my mind). I think then the critical thing is to have - something - there to do this, and whether it is a piece of vermiculite, 3mm bent steel or a bespoke piece all will work, My first thing to do would be to measure the firebox, and see what you can get with the same width (or a couple of mm short) - you can get an angle grinder or saw to chop the length down later (I got a domestic angle grinder from Argos the other week £35, did the job, not too expensive). I say the width - in mine the baffle plate has a couple of notches so that you can lift it past the bolts on each side - get the width right and you might not need to cut these yourself, saves a job. If you want to get it right get an amazon box (the card is about the right thickness) and make a template, perhaps firm up the angle with a brace to keep it steady while you check it goes in and out OK - and measure that, am sure there will be an aftermarket -something- out there Last comment, for this I suspect a friendly local fabrication shop could knock something up quickly given the dimensions for about the price of an OEM piece, you might need to help out with cutting slots in as required but the basic shape should be easy for them

.. my school work experience was working in a shop..... I think yours is so much better!