trigger_andy
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Everything posted by trigger_andy
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Hmmmmm, if you say so. 😝
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I can once you pointed out how to get away from the default Grannie view. 😁
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Got the Oak Slab back from the Joiners. Very happy with the results. Planned and sanded all for £80. Making good progress with the legs and rails. 16 mortise and tenons is slow and tedious work but also enjoyable if you break it down into shorter sessions.
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I was really asking what the current cubic foot prices people are charging. It then got a bit long winded. At £50 a cubic foot it’s borderline worth taking on. But potentially prices around the UK are higher than that and if so then I’ve some good justification to go back to the customer with why the order is so much. If prices are lower than at £50 a cube I’m already maxed out. It’s also good to know what the current market prices are.
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Thanks for the informed reply. I would not bother at less than £50 a cube. Simple not worth my time. Ive asked another local member to quote for the 6m and even the 5m lengths and that’s over £65+vat just for the 5m. And I don’t blame him. With local Elm going south for over £300-£350 a ton there is no way I’d flog choice boards for £65 a cubic foot. At these prices it’s a £15,000 order. But a serious amount of timber and labour. Anything less and it’s simply not worth my time.
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Nope.
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60 views and no one willing to stick their neck out? Fair enough.
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Maybe get this superhuman son of yours to rip the stumps out with his bare hands?
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It’s firewood. Burn it and move on.
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Hello brains trust. I’ve a potential customer looking for a good quantity of green Oak and Elm and then seasoned Spalted Beech. It’s quite a specific cutting list and I’m not really sure how to price it up. If I cut everything to his cutting list I’ll have quite a lot of waste that I’d otherwise get paid for as I usually charge whatever it comes off the saw at. Regardless, what’s everyone charging for green Oak and Elm in cubic foot and seasoned Spalted Beech (700mm wide) I might just add 20-25% of whatever cubic foot price to account for cutting everything to length. Cheers all.
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Thought I’d start a new thread on my Butcher Block Island build. Loosely basing it on this design; Port Royal Butchers Block Kitchen Island WWW.CAPTAINS-CRAFTWORKS.CO.UK Port Royal butchers block kitchen island Not only very practical but this will make a statement in any kitchen. Hand crafted by our own skilled Will not have two shelves, just one at the bottom. Pleasantly surprised to find some 3 year seasoned oak that I’ll use for rails is at 15% mc.
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"Try before you buy" Tree Surgeons Mastermind Thursday at 19:30
trigger_andy replied to HRG's topic in Business Management
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Thank you. No, nothing will remove the staining unfortunately, its ingrained, it’s apart of the timber now. Milling is certainly addictive. The initial struggle is waiting for your first batch to season but after a few years you’ll have more timber than you know what to do with. I’ll be starting a matching (semi-matching) Butcher Block Island tomorrow. Digging through my stash and found a whole bunch of 2”&3” thick boards that will suit for the skirt and rails. This is the Slab I’ll be going with for the top. Cut to 60” x 24” x5” It’s in at the local Joiners getting planned square and fed through their drum sander a few times.
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Knocked up a quick breakfast bar from sub-par oak I had knocking about. The slab was blued from wire fencing. Will just be in place for a few months until we start the new kitchen/Dining room upgrade. Was a good chance to practice my mortising though.
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You do realise a 36” stump will easily double in size by the time you get it 12” below ground level? That’s a massive amount of material to remove with what’s within your budget. I’ve come to realise the limitations of my machine and have a guy coming in at over £100 an hour to demolish my larger stumps. What would take me half a day he’ll do in 20 minutes. It will be £1500-£2500 well spent
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I’ve an old Rayco 1620 Jr for my property and although it’s fully hydraulic I doubt I’d wanna tackle what you have to do with this machine. With your budget I’d run a mile.
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I know. I’d still only do one coat though
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One coats enough surely? You want to slow down the drying process not stop it completely.
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Bought this 24” Deodar Cedar for £30, quite happy with it.
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That’s a clever way to go about Cookies. I’ll have to give it a try.
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Regardless, the primary control is clearly identified in the manual as a way to control the burn when using wood which contradicts what you stated earlier.
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If I got £300 for all of that I’d bite their hand off.
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Only ever broke one chain and that was almost maxing out a 60” bar in oak so I can not really complain. Brand new though. It will mend.
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They do not necessarily “need” a primary air supply. But following the Esse instruction manual the primary air control lever certainly gets used when burning wood. The manual instructs you to do so. And personally I’d hate to lose that additional air supply to get the fire started. I’m curious as to why Esse removed it. Cost cutting or regulations forcing their hand. Im also curious how they suggest you get the stove started now? Hopefully they don’t state to leave the door open ajar?
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That’s what I have. Great machine and quite quiet as you say.
