trigger_andy

Sorry, I was referring to the lass thats bought the old stove and has the interesting install plans.

Nobody is saying that at all. The discussion is more along the lines of if old used non-ecodesign Stove can/will be be installed and signed off by a qualified technician. I'll be installing an older Stove in my house but then Im in Scotland and not subject to the same red tape. Exactly, Ive been saying this for a few pages now. Op seems very cagey regarding this though. I think that could have been me? I installed a brand new Ecoburn 11 plus myself and was not worried about the warranty because as you say the likelihood of a claim is very low and I was willing to take the hit if it cracks. Of course if its a Boiler Stove you have a far higher chance of something going wrong and having one of them professionally installed makes far more financial and safety sense.

And the Council has given you written permission for all this have they?

Thats the point though, I cant see you getting a professional to install it or sign off on a used Stove that is potentially sixteen years old. In their eyes it will be considered a knackered old Stove regardless if you take the hump over that description or not. Up here in Scotland the rules are a little different and you can install yourself without a HETAS Engineer signing it off. You'll not be covered for any warranty claims if the Stove is new (like I did) And I think its a bit of a grey area if you'll be covered by your insurance if it causes a fire.

You're also in Scotland, different rules.

And all the other points or is it something you'd rather just ignore?

1, Have you asked permission to instal a Stove in your Council House? Might be worth looking into. 2, If you’re in England you’ll need to get it professionally installed and signed off 1, to satisfy the Council and that’s if the Council even allow you to install one in the first place and 2, to keep you legal with your Home insurance. You do have home insurance right? 3, I’m not sure you’re going to get any installer to sign off on a knackered old stove that does not meet current regs. As you say you want to be safe and bodging this yourself will not come under most peoples definition of safe.

You can PM me what the price is per cubic foot and I can see if I can see if it’s worthwhile. Andy

Did we ever chat about this? I have access to Beech and can cut to order. Either 4’ or 9.

It’s worth whatever you’d get for firewood. If you got £50 for the lot you’d be doing well.

Thanks for the reply. That is some cracking work, love it. Do you have any more pictures of the build?

Anyone built or bought a jig for their Bandsaw for cutting Lap Siding? I have a customer looking to cut her Cedar into Shingles and I thought potentially cutting Lap Siding into short lengths might do the job if I can cut Lap Siding at all. Woodland Mills have a system for cutting Lap Siding. Lap Siding Attachment WOODLANDMILLS.COM Norwood has a jig for Lapsiding and cutting proper Shingles. https://www.norwoodsawmills.com/lap-siding-shingle-making-package-set-of-2-jigs Unfortunately Logosol seems to have nothing on the market as yet.

Damn! Would you look at that! Cheers! I bet there’s gonna be loads of people secretly doing that now. 😁

Eh?

Iphone.

Yeh, it very much depends on what you're wanting out of a Forum. If you want to browse, comment and post pics in threads the App was perfect. Not a fan of having to go to a web browser and go to the forum on my phone at all. Its generally the older generation that like to use websites I find.

Its like there is an echo in here. I voiced the very same issues on another App thread. I still prefer the App over having to find the website on the phone.

Well who knows indeed. It was very flat before the machining, it seems like its not moved at all in the 20 years its been drying. Im quietly confident its not gonna move any further to be honest. But I'll report back if I'm wrong, Im happy to admit to my mistakes.

I don’t think I even own a flask to be honest. 🤣 But I used to do a lot of home brewing, and the way prices are going I’ll be getting right back into it again. Might even finish my Boka Still as well. I’ve yet to be on a Milling job where I’ve not been offered a brew. Generally it’s a steady stream of coffee too.

PBW will soon sort this issue out. PBW Cleaner FIVESTARCHEMICALS.COM Full spectrum cleaner for all types of organic soil, proteins, and stains on a broad range of equipment. Well respected in the Micro Brewing/Home brewing world.

You think it might move? its 5” thick and been drying for over 20 years. It’s also been kept in my workshop that regularly reaches 23c during the day for over a year.

I know that. But Esse clearly state that when burning Wood you use the Primary air Supply until the stove is up to operational temp. That’s my point, when burning wood it’s in the manual to use the Primary Air Supply. My Ecoburn states to keep the Primary Air supply open to get the Stove up to operating temp and then keep it either partially open or closed. Both manuals instruct Wood burners to utilise the Primary Air Supply. Neither of them state that you do not need nor should not use them at all. Both manufacturers see a clear benefit in their use when burning Wood. I much appreciate using the Primary Air supply for getting the stove up to temp over keeping the door ajar. Obviously I have kept the door ajar before on countless occasions and occasionally once lit the kindling with a few logs on top can become unstable. They often shift and with a door ajar the logs can and have rolled out. Although I’ve always been in the room when this has happened I feel it’s a needless hazard and will also set the smoke detectors off in the whole house. I’ll stick to what the manual says over your advice, thanks all the same.

Had another member on here make me a nest of bowls from an off-cut of the same slab.

That does sound a tad tedious. 😳 I do have a chain Morticer but was not needed on this job. Will use it for when I attempt a couple of Timber Frame projects in the house.