trigger_andy

Its like there is an echo in here. I voiced the very same issues on another App thread. I still prefer the App over having to find the website on the phone.

Well who knows indeed. It was very flat before the machining, it seems like its not moved at all in the 20 years its been drying. Im quietly confident its not gonna move any further to be honest. But I'll report back if I'm wrong, Im happy to admit to my mistakes.

I don’t think I even own a flask to be honest. 🤣 But I used to do a lot of home brewing, and the way prices are going I’ll be getting right back into it again. Might even finish my Boka Still as well. I’ve yet to be on a Milling job where I’ve not been offered a brew. Generally it’s a steady stream of coffee too.

PBW will soon sort this issue out. PBW Cleaner FIVESTARCHEMICALS.COM Full spectrum cleaner for all types of organic soil, proteins, and stains on a broad range of equipment. Well respected in the Micro Brewing/Home brewing world.

You think it might move? its 5” thick and been drying for over 20 years. It’s also been kept in my workshop that regularly reaches 23c during the day for over a year.

I know that. But Esse clearly state that when burning Wood you use the Primary air Supply until the stove is up to operational temp. That’s my point, when burning wood it’s in the manual to use the Primary Air Supply. My Ecoburn states to keep the Primary Air supply open to get the Stove up to operating temp and then keep it either partially open or closed. Both manuals instruct Wood burners to utilise the Primary Air Supply. Neither of them state that you do not need nor should not use them at all. Both manufacturers see a clear benefit in their use when burning Wood. I much appreciate using the Primary Air supply for getting the stove up to temp over keeping the door ajar. Obviously I have kept the door ajar before on countless occasions and occasionally once lit the kindling with a few logs on top can become unstable. They often shift and with a door ajar the logs can and have rolled out. Although I’ve always been in the room when this has happened I feel it’s a needless hazard and will also set the smoke detectors off in the whole house. I’ll stick to what the manual says over your advice, thanks all the same.

Had another member on here make me a nest of bowls from an off-cut of the same slab.

That does sound a tad tedious. 😳 I do have a chain Morticer but was not needed on this job. Will use it for when I attempt a couple of Timber Frame projects in the house.

Hope not.

Cheers Stubby. I was seriously pissed off most of the day. You’d never know there was four outta the 16 joins are now dowels, but I know and it takes the shine off of it for me. But it’s all apart of the learning process I guess?

I feel your pain! My wife just shakes her head now. 🤣 She can’t understand why I’m allowed anywhere near an oil rig let alone responsible for tbe jobs I’ve had/have . 🤣I guess it’s the lack of booze.

Finally got to the stage of adding the Osmo hard wax to the unit. Will dull down to a mat sheen but happy with the result so far. Just need to build the lower shelf now.

Was told the side of the Butcher Block I chose not to use would have made a cracking resin project. Not for me but can see why they said so.

Well, it was all going far to well. 🤣 Im sure one or two will revel in my misfortune but I’m happy to share my mistakes. Somehow I got my maths badly wrong and the frame was too wide. How that happened I still don’t know. Anyway, I was faced with the choice of saving the four mortise and tenons and adding a mini-scarf Joint or cutting the tenons off and adding dowels. I went with dowels to keep things simple and keep the aesthetics. At least cutting the tenons off gave me a chance to see how accurate they where. I’m quite happy with what I had to destroy 🤣 As I am with getting eight 1/2 inch dowels millimetre perfect on the fly.

Slow boring progress but progress non the less.

Hmmmmm, if you say so. 😝

I can once you pointed out how to get away from the default Grannie view. 😁

Got the Oak Slab back from the Joiners. Very happy with the results. Planned and sanded all for £80. Making good progress with the legs and rails. 16 mortise and tenons is slow and tedious work but also enjoyable if you break it down into shorter sessions.

I was really asking what the current cubic foot prices people are charging. It then got a bit long winded. At £50 a cubic foot it’s borderline worth taking on. But potentially prices around the UK are higher than that and if so then I’ve some good justification to go back to the customer with why the order is so much. If prices are lower than at £50 a cube I’m already maxed out. It’s also good to know what the current market prices are.

Thanks for the informed reply. I would not bother at less than £50 a cube. Simple not worth my time. Ive asked another local member to quote for the 6m and even the 5m lengths and that’s over £65+vat just for the 5m. And I don’t blame him. With local Elm going south for over £300-£350 a ton there is no way I’d flog choice boards for £65 a cubic foot. At these prices it’s a £15,000 order. But a serious amount of timber and labour. Anything less and it’s simply not worth my time.

Nope.

60 views and no one willing to stick their neck out? Fair enough.

Maybe get this superhuman son of yours to rip the stumps out with his bare hands?

It’s firewood. Burn it and move on.

Hello brains trust. I’ve a potential customer looking for a good quantity of green Oak and Elm and then seasoned Spalted Beech. It’s quite a specific cutting list and I’m not really sure how to price it up. If I cut everything to his cutting list I’ll have quite a lot of waste that I’d otherwise get paid for as I usually charge whatever it comes off the saw at. Regardless, what’s everyone charging for green Oak and Elm in cubic foot and seasoned Spalted Beech (700mm wide) I might just add 20-25% of whatever cubic foot price to account for cutting everything to length. Cheers all.