trigger_andy

Its an intended distraction from far bigger issues yet we should be angry at such matters that indicate a steady decline in our society.

Hello, a location would help a lot.

Id hardly say he was deluded.....

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What a shame. Seems like a really nice guy. Is filling down at the angle he does a couple of times in the first video a popular technique? I dont think Ive seen that done before. Whats the benefits?

I'll certainly keep that advice in mind for the future. The guys not replied so I guess he's no longer interested. My Plan was to mill 6-9 beams at the same time since I would be milling the log/s the same day and let him take his pick. The remaining ones (if bowed) would go to the bottom of a stack and be left to dry and hopefully straighten as they do so with some weight on top. If they did not then Id cut them down for other projects.

I think the issue is they could bend like a banana. You'd end up with a 2 foot stump if you tried to plane that out.

Registered or built? Can you find the Build date from the Vin or any other paperwork? For example I know the build date and build plant from the Fender Tag on my Truck. I believe that if you can prove it was built on a certain date thats obviously earlier than the registration date you can go off of that. Another example, I know of some 1973 Plymouth Barracuda's that where known as the 'Kingston 'Cuda's' Built in the US for export to a Dealer in Gran Canaria and for whatever reason remained unsold. A Dealer in the UK, based in Kingston bought them all, shipped them back to the UK and they sold slowly, the last one was not sold until 1982! So Going by the registration date it was not eligible for Tax and MOT exemption till last year. Worth looking into.

If it’s still a log then I’ll hazard a guess the MC is still over 40%. I’m sure it will mill just fine.

Have you thought of pulling down the Plasterboard and investigating the issue properly? Are all the Bedroom walls aligned on the same wall? Potentially an issue outside?

Define a 'slow burn'. I'll assume being so new they will have all the new anti-slumber gubbins attached stopping them going into a full slumber but regular 'slow burning' will not be helping matters IMO. Id also look to mix in some softwood with your hard. Ash and Beech are great for long slow burns but softwood will burn nice and hot. Id recommend burning that problematic stove hot and hard for a few days and see if that clears your issues. Then Id not 'slow burn' them nearly as much.

Do you use a moisture meter on your firewood? Even if you do its worth re-splitting a piece you intend to put in the Stove and re-measure to get an accurate reading of the actual MC of the wood you're putting in your Stove. It certainly looks like you're getting a build up of Tar in there. Could it be that you're slumbering the smaller stove more? Do you ever let the Stove get up to a good roar to help clear the flue out? My Stove manufacturer recommends a 20 minute high temp burn twice a day to keep everything clean. Is one stove older then the other? The bigger stove might be getting a more efficient burn and therefore not facing the same tar/creosote issues. Whats the positioning of each Stove? Both on Ground floor level? One upstairs and potentially a shorter Flue and therefore less draw? Prevailing wind direction and obstructions from the house or trees etc. I dont tend to put much trust in Sweeps either. They seem to be in and out fairly fast. Running up your own brush after and spending some extra time on it could well result in a better clean.

As far as Im aware its a rolling 40 years old to be tax and MOT exempt. So if as you say the Truck is 40 years old it will have been build on or before 1982. But there is a point system to be MOT free. So if its a stock vehicle you should be fine. Modifications such as swapping out engines to ones that could have come in the vehicle from stock are also allowed. My 1976 Dodge Truck is MOT and tax free.

From my limited understanding skip chain better suits longer bars and hyper-skip better suits 48"+ plus bars. Less strain on the saw and allows the cutters to clear the chip better. The down side is a less smooth finish compared with a regular chain and far more frequent sharpening. Seasoned Oak could prove difficult to mill though. I tried re-sawing a 20 year plus seasoned 6" oak slab and with a regular milling chain filed to 10 degrees I only got as far as 3" into the slab before I completely dulled the chain. With a Skip or Hyper-skip I think Id have got 1/3rd to half as far as that. I gave up. At the same time I milled some 20 year dried Ash and sailed though that with no issues.

I have a good source. Getting a little thin on the ground now though.

Yeh, thats why I'll happily keep them if the customer rejects any. Saying that he's gone cold already, and thats before discussing prices.🙄

You've done far far more milling that I so I bow to your greater knowledge on this. My personal experience of milling local Oak differs from yours, but that could be because I rarely mill Oak longer than 3m. When I do Im getting between 4 and 9 beams out of a log (excluding sapwood) and have yet to have an outer beam move at all. Ive milled a few at 4.8m for some personal projects and they have remained straight as well. But I can see it being an issue when it comes to lengths closer to 6m. Its a 30" log so right on my limits and I intend on getting at least 6x6" beams out of it. I'll see how they end up and report back.

Ive at least two 7m Log Logs that are very straight with no branches. I really should get them dug out.

Thats a good point. Thankfully the Oak I get off the local estate has very little movement in it. Cutting at 3-4m has yet to be an issue but I can see cutting at 5.7 could be. He knows they'll be green so what happens after they leave my yard is of no interest to me. But ensuring they remain straight whilst I still have them will be. I've milled 60 off 6"x6"x5.7m Norway Spruce Beams (so far) for my log cabin and very few if any have moved in the last 6-12 months they've been stickered. Hopefully the oak will remain the same. If the Oak moves then I'll just keep them and mill til I get a good one, or however many he needs.

Im sure many of you have a figure in your head in cubic foot or cubic meter when quoting and I tend to stick to this regardless if its 2.5m or 4.8m but do any of you add a premium for over 4.8m? I'm being asked to quote for 5.7m Oak beams and wonder what additional premium I should ask for lengths as long as this?

I dont agree. Its a nice steady income for the common man who lives a somewhat frugal lifestyle but pennies if you're used to living a middle to upper class lifestyle.

Ive heard about these kinds of issues with Larch often and have yet to experience any of them. Saying that Ive milled under 50 tons so only just starting out with it but so far I must have got lucky. I do go through bands more than I would do with Oak, but not any more than I would if I was milling Spruce.

That’s chicken feed though. An average Joe would lead a fairly boring existence on that in London.

They searched for him for something like 12 hours. Thats some serious Cowboy Stretch in the Sack-store if he never actually fell off. All very odd, I guess I'll get the latest from the rumor mill tomorrow.

Going to admit you where wrong then Eggs? 'Gaslighting' my Arse. You really are one of a kind I'll give you that. And nice goal post move yet again Eggers. What a plonker.