trigger_andy

There is some far more knowledgeable guys here than me and Im sure they can more fully appreciate what you're referring to here. Some like to custom grind their teeth to suit the wood they are milling, some like to set the teeth at zero degree's and some find that 10 degrees for all the teeth work just fine. Personally I just leave them at 10 degrees and Im happy with that. When you say 5 degrees for some and 20 for the others I assume you're not taking about in the same chain, right? If so Im a bit lost as to what you're referring to. Yes, you really need to learn how to hand sharpen, its relatively easy and quick once you get some muscle memory built into your hands. Im not sure what the other tool you're referring to but a fairly good bench chain grinder is also a good investment. Get yourself 2-3 chains, sharpen them all before the start of the day and you can then quickly rotate them after you've given them a few hand sharpens during the day. Then at the end of play square them all up on the bench grinder ready for next time. The Grandberg really comes into its own when you're out in the sticks and hit metal, especially on a 36" or longer chain and need to re-dress it. Just add a set of Verniers to your wee kit bag.

Ive not seen any of the video's, Ive always just followed the instructions that I posted above. Ive never tried the bolt and nut idea and it seems pointless to me. Yeh, get a £10 Vernier, handy for all sorts of things apart from measuring tooth lengths. I have a good set but then Im given them from work. If one set of teeth are longer than the other then only that side is fully engaging with the log and the chain will be biting on that side pulling the chain and therefore the Mill in that direction. Another good habit to get into is checking your bar condition and keeping it in rotation. You need to 'dress' your bar regularly as well. A badly worn bar thats not had any maintenance can cause you to wander as well. If the grove is too wide your chains gonna flop around in there and wander in the direction it choses. You do have a Guide Bar Dressing Tool, right? Milling is hard on your equipment, if you dont have the correct 'service' equipment and service intervals you're gonna keep running into the problems you're having. And yes, Id say your Saw is too small for the work you're expecting of it. When you kill it you can invest in something more suitable for Milling.

The Precision Grinder when used correctly gets the teeth razor sharp. But when you have what looks like a rounded over leading edge like in your pic then just taking a 'kiss' off the tooth is not gonna do anything. For such a small chain Id only use the Precision Grinder if I'd have hit metal, its simply not needed for a quick re-sharpen. But with your chain as blunt as it looks then try taking a bit more meat off the tooth with the Precision Grinder and then make sure you're taking the same off the other side with a vernier caliper. Once you're all square again then when you empty the tank of fuel or two give the chain a few licks with a hand file. Just count how many you give each tooth and make sure they all get the same. Then every few sharpens check the rakers with your Depth Gauge, you do have one, right? As for the sap, a screwdriver or better yet the file you have for taking down the rakers will soon get rid of that.

I think its just the Op making it a thing as its his fetish.

You should also remove all the burned on sap off of the top of the cutters each time you sharpen as well. Thats not gonna help your cutting at all You're pushing the cutting edge away from the Log you're milling and just generating more and more heat.

Hello and welcome. The main issue with the Granberg Grinder is when you grind one set of teeth at say 10 degree's (or 30 if cross cutting) is you cant always just swing the Grinder from one set of 10 degrees to the opposite and expect the cutters to be the exact same length. So when I use it I do one set of teeth then swing it around for the other set of Teeth, grind the first tooth then measure with a vernier caliper then adjust the Granberg Precision Grinder to suit. See step 5 in the picture below; Its not easy to see in your picture of the chain, but to me it looks blunt. I see you've taken the rakers down, but its hard to see if you've taken them down to the correct depth. In the Granberg Instruction manual it shows you how to set the Percision Grinde up to take the rakers down and how many 'clicks' of the height dial and setting the cutting angle to 0 degree's. You can use this in conjunction with a depth gauge or follow the instructions in the instruction manual, Ive added the section in the secon picture, the section is called 'Jointing depth gauges'

Do it. Might take 3 times as long but Also got to be worth a load more money if it works. Maybe not worth busting the machine over though I’d certainly not do enough logs to build a cabin. Just another three dumpy logs to see how oak handles the profiling. But being just 1.5m long it would not give a true reflection of the full 4.7m lengths, so most likely just a waste of time. It’s not like I don’t have enough to get on with as it is. 😁

Mind keep us informed with your court date and how you get on there. [emoji16]

It’s a generic set that’s got a Hyundai sticker on it, or the other generics are Hyundai and have their sticker on it. Regardless, it’s handled two years of me abusing it when I was happy to just two a seasons graft out of it.

I have this set and have thrown all the abuse I can at it and it just keeps on going.

Thanks for the reply. I’m almost tempted to make a few demo logs to see how they fair. [emoji38]

For that kind of dish you recon you could afford to get your screen fixed. [emoji16]

Ah cool! Getting the 12” Planer would certainly finish off my Makita Timber Framing Set. [emoji16] The 5402NA is certainly gonna come in handy for building my Cabin as my Mitre Saw only cuts 4” thick. I used it to get these demo logs squared up. Worked a treat.

I imagine you could take 3 passes with Hardwood, but a single pass is time consuming enough as it is when you have 4 sides to plane. Id hate to think how long it would take to Mill enough for a Cabin going down that road. And you'd have to be constantly resetting the depths. A Single Pass and all the Depths are pre-set really. I'll see how the Larch logs handle being milled and moulded green, Ive also a couple of 4.7m Green Spruce Logs moulded to see how they settle . It certainly seems to be what Logosol recommend doing and I know of two cabins built on the Estate behind me with the 5" and 6" D Profile Logs and they where milled/moulded green. They have been there 20 years now and seem fine. I might mill the logs at 155mm, as opposed to 150mm and let them sit for a season or two to partially dry out and then mould. The longer I leave them to dry the less shrinkage issues I'll have as well. Out of interest why would moulding green oak be an issue for logs like this? Im just thinking along the lines of Timber framing and that they are predominantly build from green oak.

Never knew you had that Dave. That looks like a new machine as well. How much did that set you back?

Have you considered Makita’s 12” Hand Planer? Think you need to look to Japan or the US to find a used one, and they’re not cheap. I’m sorely tempted to get one anyway. 🤣 But the LM410 would manage it no bother. I planed 3 x 6” Beams at the same time. Managed it no bother and obviously saves a lot of time.

Logosol says it fits the vast majority of Bandsaw Mills. The track width is it accepts is either on their websites or in the user manual, which is also available on-line. Wider tracked Mills would need the LM410 XL, which is just a wider chassis.

He was wrong about being able to Mould Hardwood with the machine as well. Nothing new there though, a man needs to know his limitations. 🤐😉

Just had a reply from Logosol Saul, Larch is the hardest wood they recommend Moulding with the LM410, even then the feed rate is reduced.It’s designed for Pine and Spruce. He said hardwood will just break the cutters. Hardwood is fine for the planing knives though as you’re just taking 1-2mm off per pass. It’s not an industrial machine by any stretch of the imagination, at best it’s one level up from Hobby use.

Have you used one before Les?

Id have to ask Logosol. The blades are taking upto 25mm cuts so Id be surprised if it would handle hardwood, if it does I guess it will seriously reduce the life of the blades. 8" x 8", but also 6" x 6" or 6" x 8", Im thinking of going 6" x 8".

Are you quoting Southpark here?

Sounds worse than a timeshare.

I’ve advertised on FB market place and had enquiries all day, no biters yet and one guy called me a con-man for the quote I gave him. 🤣Once I’ve got my cabin built I’ll use it for better advertising There seems to be very few places selling Logs for Log Cabins. The only place I could find on-line sell 3” “logs” for £19 a meter. So asking £20 a meter for mine does not sound that bad to me. A lot of manual handling though.