SbTVF

Thanks! Also needs an arm to hold the bottom of the cage ideally and take some of the strain off the corner feet.

Cheaper than a box turner but does need a big funnel making to avoid spillage.

Yeah, where are you?

Another user on Facebook said they’d had a bad batch and replaced quite a few for people and they were working well now a guy up near me is very happy with his.

Others are using iggesund harvester bars but at £170 a pop they should be last a long long time!

Run the new type narrow kerf 93txl is it? On our 550xp’s. Absolutely flies. Running Oregon 73 full and semi chisels on our processor and find very little difference in speeds of cut.

Sounds good, whatever we do it needs to be economical on space. Another option is to fill IBC’s and stack in 3443 or 343 columns as long as we can go in the space I have between sheds. Then tarp the top. Maybe even put pallets on the top to stop damage to the tarp and allow more airflow under the tarp. The only trouble is that means more double handling, we deliver in bags so if we could stack those in a similar arrangement that would be fantastic. Might only get a safe stack 3 high in the middle though.

Clear sheets often degrade with sunlight rather quickly too.

Going back to the original topic, we currently sell kiln died only. If we wanted to sell air dried and get it down to a usable moisture content of sub 25% what is the best way to do this on a large scale? Forgetting the actual final moisture content: Over say 12 months will logs dry quicker if left in the round for 6 months then processed into vented bags/ibc’s/potato crates, stacked in a Yorkshire boarded shed. Or processed after 2 months and then stored for 10? Are they more likely to mould one way over the other? Alternatively do logs dry as well (without getting mouldy) tipped loose into a concrete floored and sided bay in the same yorkshire boarded shed as before? Would some sort of grain pedestal or fan at the back behind a cage to keep the air flow moving through them speed up drying? I would assume cutting the logs during a dry period when they are themselves dry outside would be the best option for a start?

Completely agree. Most people only want a store big enough to store a few cube at most. They either don’t have the space or are too lazy to store any more than what they need for the next few weeks. Especially in towns. Doesn’t bother me selling them firewood ready to burn though. I have one single customer who maybe has a store big enough to store 18-24months ahead with normal domestic use.

Oh it’s a right sod. 800mm deep top but he wanted it below the window so that’s up to him. I only fill stores when we fit them or for a price.

Built this for a customer last year. Doesn’t hold as much as I calculated for some reason but it’s only really me that looses out a bigger delivery each time. [emoji85]

Roughly 45 cube. Best we’ve had is 52 cube from a sorted load of 10-16” 2.5m hardwood, mostly ash and sycamore. Worst was 38 and it was 80% birch first thinnings. Nothing bigger than 10”. Wagon and drag was full right to the top too. Lots of air in that load!

The log comes at the saw from the right hand side and with the old Oregon bars the rails always burred out on the right hand side within about 20 cube. Hence changing to the Sugi to stop that. It now seems the bars are wearing down on the side of the bar where the log isn’t supported by the infeed belt. Not sure its an unreasonable amount of wear really. The chain is kept tensioned as per the manufacturers recommendation.

@fjmatt

I had thought that. As long as it was on a bench one so you could guarantee sanding it perpendicular I should think it would work. We don’t have one but may be able to mount the big 110v makita belt sander on a bench to do the same job.

Running an 18” sugihara pro solid on our tajfun 400 processor It has a tendency to wear the rails on the left hand side (looking down the bar from the saw end) faster than the other causing it to jam in the cut. Struggling to even touch the bar with a standard Oregon flat file and dresser tool to square it back up because of the harder steel. Any tips/tools to get a really square bar on these hard steel bars?

We do them £25 each or 4 for £90. Even though they take a little extra effort to fill, they help fill the spare space on the truck when delivering and makes it possible to deliver 3.5m3 instead of just 2m3 so it’s definitely worth keeping them popular. I could probably charge more for them, say £30 for one or £100 for 4 and still get plenty of orders but keeping the average order at £100 including kindling seems to work nicely. That’s for kiln dried by the way.

Yeah 3 barrow bags for 1 of yours definitely. The sackmarket barrow bags are the best size I’ve found at 45x45x95 or 47x47x90 depending on stock. The sg Baker (LC packaging) are a bit bigger at 47x47x95 but they’re also half vented which isn’t really necessary in most cases. Best off stacking the 1st half dozen logs at the bottom to get a flat layer so they stand up easier, then bash them once you’ve overfilled at the top and they should be about right.

Roughly 3 barrows to a builders bag of around .7m3

Thats appalling! Should be a 10 minute phone conversation, maybe send in copies of ID to prove it’s still you and then back on track with it. No wonder the country is so in debt. Couldn’t administer a paracetamol without it costing the tax payer half a billion quid!

That’s interesting to know, doesn’t read that way to me on the exempt rule guidance but fair enough, we only travel about 25 miles max so trailer could certainly be an option. I know other suppliers round us have been hit by vosa a few times over it.

You definitely do need a tacho if you’re delivering with a trailer. Forestry exemptions for trailers don’t apply for delivering logs to end users as it’s a commercial use. Any truck over 3.5t GTW also needs a tacho if used for the same purpose I believe. If you produced the logs yourself from your own forestry operations or arb work then you could transport them home but as soon as you do it commercially you need one. Also I find our customers would far rather have a bit of brash left over in a bag than tipped all over their drive to have to sweep up. Some like it tipped but it’s just as easy to tip a bag out as it is to tip a trailer. Tipped loads are generally fine for seasoned wood to load into a log store but bagged is simpler for kiln dried as it can just be stored in the garage. You and the customer both know exactly the quantity and you’re all on the same page, a tipped load could easily be different unless you loaded with a measured bucket.

All options work. The question you should be asking is can you get the customers to justify the expense of any set up? Ps the trailer option requires a tacograph on your towing vehicle or VOSA will be on your back.

If our experience of altering the original application of your RHI is anything to go by, even though it was all applied for originally just connected up over time, don’t change it it’s not worth the hassle! They just continually keep asking for more information, 4 months in with no payment currently!