drinksloe

Which is why i did state not to folllow my advice and ask a dr. I just googled it and see it still is a 'thing', Buteyko and i wasnae too far away with those breathing excercises. A hold of less than 10 secs poor, under 25 not great over 40 pretty good (explained on website better) see its pretty pricey now thou years ago was just an evening class in a village hall. From memory the only thing that stuck with me was doing those breathing excercises and taping ur mouth shut, but it did help me Duno if taping ur mouth shut will still be the 'reccommended' advice but was 20yrs ago and i rarely breathe throu my mouth now and it clears ur nose a treat. Will also stop snoring

Aye if u think about it air is onlly 20% Oxygen so it takes time to process that in ur lungs probably longer when u've got asthna and there constricted, so when ur breathing fast it only makes the problem worse. (probably just circulating the air at top while stuff inside lungs never gets replaced) Ideally u want to breathe throu ur nose 100% of time, but never going to happen esp if having an attack, another trick put ur hands on ur head and stand straigt up just as if playing sport (just opens up ur lungs etc) rather than hunching with hands on legs which is the usually stance when ur puffed/blowing I mind with that breathing excercise we took outr heart beat at start of the meeting and end and over the 6? classes everyones heart rate had came down a good bit and came down further after the excercises. And it was a massive age range of folk from reenager to pensioner They reckoned when u can hold for 30+ secs it has loads of other benefits for the body too The medicine is pretty gppd now and will soon sort u out I think with asthna ur not went to take that pain relief pills either? Not sur ethe name never really take pills or owt

Have a look into Buyteko?? (some russian doctor) helped me loads. Dunno if still a 'thing' but used to do night classes in it 20yrs ago 1 of the things thery said which makes sense althou doesn't seem like it at the time if ur having an attack. When ur breathing throu ur mouth ur breathing TOO much air and ur lungs can't process it in time so when ur havig an attack and gasping/panting it only makes it worse, hence why trying to control/slow ur breathing helps. Abd when ur lungs are constricted it needs even more time to process the air Dunno if ur doc has gave u breathing excercises? Got loads as a kid. But the 1 i learned throu buyteko casses was breathe out till lungs fairly empty then hold ur breathe as long as possible before u want to breathe in again, and time it. Don't push urself too hard u will feel it uncomfy and mibbee even ned to cough u don't want to be passing out. Think they reckoned it needs to be 30 odd sec The other even more bizzare thing i still do occassionally (but probably shouldn't mention on an open forum or u should get a proper dr's advice) is actually tape u mouth shut at nite when u go to bed. Sounds mental but does work. Use that micro pore tape stuff (NOT gaffa tape) they say do it vertically at 1st and leave a great big 'tag' on it so u can pull it off if needed, ur body will do it sub conciously, then when sleeping with that on all nnight do it horizontally. Been a long time since i've done it but any time i feel a cold/blocked nose coming on i tape my mouth up and nose is clear as a bell again. As a kid i had very bad asthma, was often hos[italised and in oxygen tents think once spent almost a week in an oxygen tent in the hosp, thoose were the days when nebulisers were just becoming more normal, which were a godsend. Once got a real bollocking of a mates dad the local dr, we were drinking round at his prob about 15 and everyone else was smoking apart from me, seemingly i as at that time the nearest kid he had seen to dying that survived, seemingly i was turning blue in the ambulance as it blue lighted/white lined it to hospital. So he wasn't happy if i was smoking and i never have Now it rarely bothers me, i hardly take my daily puffer, only if i feeel a niggle usually if i have a touch of cold/infection and never carry my blue (ventolin) usually in a van

Just make sure u get NPTC tickets, possibly the cheap course is omething different. NPTC are recognised by everybody, some forestry companies don't recognise lantra etc But 1 hell of a lot to cram into 5 days, simply not possible

Mibee hard to tell from the photo, but there does look to be a few trees above it to anchor a block too. Esp if have the anchor low down on th eanchor tree (u could even put a tie back on it, another rope on the anchor tree higher up and tie it back to another tree base further up the hill to spread load stop anchor tree pulling over) If u have a few blocks as redirects (and suitable anchor points) the only thing that really affects the trctor position is the length of the winch cable. So ur tractor can be anywhere reallly. Possibly pulling the butt to a side, which ever side will suits the tangled crown might be easier as someone said earlier about the butt digging in if u pull it directly uphill. Or throwline to get a nice high tie in point and try to pull them straight again. Ur probably as well doing wot u said getting someone in and then watching, its not rocket science but everything looks easy when u have been shown the right/easy ways At same time also good to know ur limitations and stop, as thats when mistakes accidents happen if u push to far.

Dunno about the pick axe, esp if ur down a bit deeper but a decent sharp pinch its amazing wot u can dig throu. Just done a hand ball hill fencing job digging strainers in by hand and there was a few in 1 section where u were digging throu 2ft of flinty bedrock to get the posts in. Was some swearing going on at times and had to get pinch redrawn Doubt would of been vaible on this job but a rock spike on a post knocker is some tool (assuming no underground services) for a job like this a local fencing company could of came out spiked it in 30mins. U do get some chappers on some quite small tracked machines now too, travellingto the job would take longer than doing it. When i done vineyard fencing out in OZ they had rock drills/air compressors atttached to some of the tractors for drilling the post holes. No idea if tiny companies exist in UK that do small holes. Might be expensive but i imagine u will just be charging the clients if they agree to it

Just wondering will a capstan winch pull almost any sort of rope?? Now i know if u were just using some 13mm poly prop there would be a degree of strech which is not ideal, but say u were pulling smaller brash/limbs up a steep banking u could buy a load of polyprop and tie a few lines on so when u got to the top u could have a few lines ready just to be winched up (thinking or more solo operations)

I'm the last person u want to ask about H&S risk assesments etc, like agri mog says with timber it could chance massively if u find something u didn't expect or even if weather changes (possibly more for felling if wind is completely wrong direction) Every step in life is risk assesed (most folk don't walk in front of buses) and manage fine with out writing it down Dunno if u said in ur method statement u would 'chog' the tree down 100% to ground level so no actual felling cuts needed? End of day no 1 will see u do it if on the school hols anyway Not doubting the OP's ability but i imagine the school is wanting to avoid a situation like that clip that was on here a while back, some boys making a complete hash of a tottem pole and almost wiping out a cyclist. And there is plenty other clips on here of probably/possibly good enough climbers making pure ****s of relatively simple straight fells. I would imagine 32 would be a handy ticket for many climbers just for these occasions as will take any guesswork out of it. Plus a pretty easy ticket to do, most experienced/common sensed boys could do it with little or no extra training (fact is most of u will be doing it no and again anyway with no problems) Possibly even handier now as no big tree ticket anymore so saves u doing the next 1 too as u used to do if tree is over 32. Ps Just to complicate matters further with 32, does it still specify hard and softwoods? Dunno if it was the felling or the crown breakdown but sure u used to get an a and b part of ticket for hard/softwoods. Possibly if being very anal u shpould have it for correct tree type if that still is a 'thing'

That golfy used augers to full depth then stuck an extension on it and drilled again. But depends how deep u need to go. Take a bit of digging to 1.5m by hand, to deep for even shuv holers, they strugle after 4ft. If ur tress are arriving soon i'd get some test holes dug sharpish to see if it would work or on to plan C or D

It will all depend how deep the clay layer is and if u can dig/bore throu it. A local golf course had a massive problem with its greens 10 odd years ago and the grass was almost dieing off, and had lost most of their members. They drilled holes all over the greens (every few meters) think about 6ft deep filled with pea gravel type stuff and topped with just enough soil to take the turf. Their greens are some of the best in region now and membership is overflowing. Wot u said might work all depends on u getting throu the clay layer and wot is below that. Sining a pinch well in and giving it a good 'waggle' in a few places see if u can get throu that layer. U either have to get the water away either downhill throu drainage or ur cores or has been said mound ur topsoil up and pack it to try and stop water seeping in in the 1st place. A lot will depend on the site

I also guess from ur post u don't have any tickets or experience yet??? (ignore this if i've picked up wromg end of stick) Plenty of good advice above. Really its not the type of industry u should be setting up on ur own after just gaining ur tickets. So much that needs to be learnt from experience about actually doing the job never mind pricing them etc I'd 2nd wot J and others have said about forestry work, low overheads etc even compared to a SE climber no ropes/harnesses etc and LOLER every 6 months. But if u really want to do arb work u really must work for another company 1st and watch learn not just the climbing but how long it takes u to do certain jobs

Sw scotland, so not far from clarks/jas p etc and most of the common forest machinery boys have yards inabout longtown/carlisle areas now (ponsse, komatsu, JD, valmet) Just wodering if any similar 'hot spots' or even 1 decent dealer worth a wee nose round on the way back up.

Cheers ed, they are all the type of thing i'm looking for althou all pretty close to where i live. Qitte lucky a few forestry shops round us althou more focussed on proper big machinery thou

Alright Just wondering if anyone knows of any decent forestry dealerships not too far of either the M1 or M6 corridors? from derby area heading north Travelling from scotland down to sort of derby area to look at a compact tractor sometime this week, i hate trafic (and really not used to it coming from my area) so will drive down overnight to see machine 1st thing. So wondering if any decent places worth visiting on the way up the road as not often i'm as far down south. Is there any decent dealerships not too far away from either the M1/M6? Haven't decided which way i'm coming back don't think they'll be a lot in it as terrible roadworks on the 66 and M1 last time i was down. Sort of looking for smaller scale stuff either compact tractors or stuff to fit behind them (timber trailer or ideally a 3 pt link timber grab, winch). The only 3 i can think of are a Riko place about Weatherby and Kellfri dealership at Bishop Auckland (both up M1) or that Treadlight Forestry (riko) that advertises here althou not sure if its open throu the day or not? Never seem to get an answer on the phone (althou does look a bit of a trail of the M6 too) Never been to any of these dealers before so have no idea if they have much in stock to have a nose throu. Or i'm i better just heading up the road always got plenty of wee jobs to do in daylight hours if i got home early enough.

Ur mibee right about the objector owning the woods althou i just assumed hr owned other woods in that area. It would depned on the contrct/lease/agteement but i wouldn't be happy if i owned woodland and the management company (wether wildlife trust or not) were going against my wishes. But to be fair i woudn't be expecting to put anyone in danger like that cutting the trees at 2m. Just because he owns woodland doesn't mean he knows wot he's talking about. To me it just reads like a typical paper non story

The way i read the article it was the other bloke the objector who was saying fell at 6ft/2m essentially pollarding the trees. I don't know enough about that area or ash die back and how common/devasting it is in eng to really comment on wot is right or wrong. Reading the article i can see both points of view and both have valid points, it really all depends how many ash are affected and to wot extent. The objector said fell/pollard anything over 50% dieback, but the trust boy says trees already have 80% dieback, if that is true then it really is a non story as the objector would be felling them too. The only issue then is wether pollard hieght or coppice hieght?? Dunno the age of the woods/trees or % of ash but it will open up areas to potential windblow in the future Surely it wouldn't be that bad a job to hand fell? Folk have been felling dead ash for years even before dieback came, just got to be extra careful. Get a decent skidder/winch, throw line the anchor a decent hieght up. probably ur biggest problem would be felling tree the way they are leaning as u couldn't trust ur normal 'safe' cuts to hold, u'd prob be safer winching it against the lean so winch has the pressure. With a big enough winch u wouldn't need to be anywhere near the tree when it started to move so little dange of limbs dropping of LPG eddie, wot sort of machines would u use for a job like that? Only seen harvesters in softwoods so don't know how they'd handle all the big limbs at ackward angles, no doubt saw always be at wrong angle. Plus most heads only have a 80ish cm bar and while i've seen them take trees far bigger than that i'd imagine they really would struggle with a large hardwood. Also i bet getting/guessing the wieght/balance right on a big hardwood must be hard just the way a crown grows, very different from even a big softwood which is usually pretty obvious where the wieght is and all wieght in the stem intself (again making it easier to do multiple cuts on oversived trees)

Does the +F 1st aid cousre pretty much not do that (atleast with a decent intructor) I know the 1st time i done my +F the intructor shocked me with quite a lot of stuff, back then he went way of the reservation with some of the stuff he was telling us (torniquet's etc, but when they were still a big No No) basically his bottom line was anything serious at all (not just cutting based, stalking or just outdoors in remote areas) ur basically dead unless u have a phone reception and even then u could easily be hours before u get any 'real' helpand bugger all u can really do about it. When i was on the railways seen a lot of different boys cutting and many scared the hell out of me, i wouldn't trust them to cut their finger nails never mind trees. But they all had tickets. While i'm not against more money in forestry esp to hand cutters, that would not actually solve much (apart from my overdraft ? )training/injury wise and could actually make things worse as more folk come in and try to do it Not sure if i said it on this thread or a similar 1 but went down hill since they stopped u waiting 2 years after doing wee trees to medium. U learn a hell of a lot in those 2 years often by u making mistakes taking shortcuts (usually complacncy and/or tiredness) but atleast ur making mistakes in small timber which is easier to correct (plus ur cuts have to be more precise as less room) So when u get onto the big boys it just seems easy as u have so much room for saws and wedges Going off topic but a lot of this box ticking/tickets is now the norm in society in general and the problem is a massive lack of common sense in a mssive % of the population (not just the youngsters) the standard of tradesmen is decreasing as are their numbers in 20 years u really will struggle to find a decent tradesman More and more tickets will not help and niether will refresher courses unless they can 'refresh' some common sense into folk, its not like the trees are growing differently now to how they did 20-40 or even 5 yrs ago

Would imagine be fairly easy to make ur own scabbard/holster thing out of metal or even timberand mount it where ever u wanted. I would imigine somewhere on the far away side where boom comes in might be out of ur working area. Or if u made a box thing could make whole box with folded steel mesh so everything drops throu Wot ever i done i think i would be tieing the saw onto the cage anyway just incase

But i'm sure the exact same trainers/colleges will still be doing the refreshers courses so nothing really changes apart from the trainers get richer. Just me refreshers are only relevent if the trainer/assor actually knows wot they're taking about. This is possibly not a place to admit this but most of the stuff u learn on a course is just BS away, it might be great in an ideal situation to have all these winches/tirfors etc on the job site but when the job site is the top of the hill it simply isn't going to happen. thats when the tricks that are often now frowned upon that the old boys taught u really help. Like i said i probably shouldn't admit it but u'd never get owt done if u followed the text book 100%

With the 'upskilling' thing their is now a whole bunch of meaningless tickets that never existed before and were mostly part of 32, so u could probably just do an assesment with someone. Can't even mind wot the BS course title i done but was only 6 months ago, assisted fell or something but just using a tirfor, wot was 15mins in the old 32 is now a course on its own

Been a good few years since i worked on the rails, but really NR only concerned with trees if branches come within 5m of there tracks/lines/infrastructure. I have been into private gardens and sided trees up if the branches were inside the 5m. Must admit i think i'd just go on and do the job without speaking to them officaly. As long as job is straight forward and ur very confident u can do it, just ower any limb on the far side of tree. If that was a road 30m away would u still be happy reducing the tree?? But at same time if u have plenty other work on is it even worth it?

Wot did u do in the end a couple of years ago? Did u speak to th ehousing assoc?? Not an easy 1 as if u stir things up too much i'm sur eshe could really make ur life hell. Mibbee get an estimate for wot it would cost to replace the dead tree (assuming u have a half decent case of proving her work killed it) for 1 of a similar size and send the bill to the housing assoc

I may be wrong but thought the metal to metal was to do with being able to cut yourself or someelse free in a rescue situation. Like u can't have a grilion on ur strop straight onto ur harness. If all there wieght was on a carb/strop u might not be able to lift the wieght off and unbuckle/clip the device, if rope involved u just cut it away after seured to urself Must admit haven't a scooby about all that srt stuff and the gadets that go with it. I take it u can't srt up with a base anchor/tie off, then when u get to casualty strop in, if someone below u untie anchor, and just tie a bowline etc in end and ur on a normal climbing set up. Not that i climb much nowadays (esp commercially) for a rescue scenerio rightly or wrongly i'd prob just spike up the tree stroping/roping in and set rope up from top (but againnever done srt so no idea how much quickier that would be) Swampster do a lot of rope access boys not climb with 2 lines a working line and safety line?

While it may not work just as well with saws, as u say the ####s won't pay to get them serviced. But with bigger items they say surprising how often they get them back, eventually, as often u have to give a serial number to buy spares.

I'd just find a decent sawmill producing decent posts, while the treatments may have changed probably the biggest problem is most sawmills will be treating timber that was only recently felled so its never going to take much treatment in. I've put plenty fences up 20 years ago that are still standing and mainly just with soft wood rather than larch posts A couple of old fashioned mills near me have big drying yards where the cut timber is stored under old tarps to let it dry before treatment. They also only peel there posts rather than machine round, i also like the look of peeled posts rather than machine rounds and reckon that outer layer helps to keep water out. But can honestly say never had a problem with posts rotting in such a short time. Another handy thing if u can do it is putting a single strand of eleccy on the fence, often the posts snapping is caused by beasts rubbing/scratching on the posts or tring to graze in the next field. U don't get tht when ur top wire is leccy Burning on stuff or treating every post before it goes in the ground is not really vaible if ur fencing commercially Was in a sawmill 1 day years ago (not the good 1's, estate only had an account there) and the rep and owner where on about this, rep was trying to claim that these big modern heavy post knockers where 'altering' the tinbers cell structure causing them to rot