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stihlmadasever

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Everything posted by stihlmadasever

  1. stihlmadasever
    Yes tis true...my point was full chisel easier to dull
  2. stihlmadasever
    Not at all mate,i used to be really vigillant aswell,still am about certain things in my kit
  3. stihlmadasever
    Hey alex,i seen your post about goin to Oz a while back on facebook,glad its goin well.Nice video mate keep em coming
  4. stihlmadasever
    Ive only been asked to produce documents once and that was proof of loler and my nptc skills card-which i had real problems finding at that point. Havent been asked to produce documents whilst subbing in last 3 years but i do climb for the same couple of companies regularly.
  5. stihlmadasever
    I like running full chisel,more aggressive and faster in the cut,slightly higher havs id say in comparison to semi chisel but down point is full chisel is very easy to dull.Most of my work is in back gardens and street trees so its a pita sharpening all the time after you dink a metal fence or hit nails in the stem-council tenants do that alot to trees in theyre gardens-
  6. stihlmadasever
    Reconsider your choices...treework is difficult and can be very very challenging. First couple of years i loved it...recently,over the last year or so i could easily count the days in one hand ive enjoyed my work. Possibly thats just me but id really think bloody hard before i spent several thousand pounds on courses and kit.
  7. stihlmadasever
    Use semi chisel on my huskies and full chisel on my stihls-easier to get semi chisel for the huskys.
  8. stihlmadasever
    Theres no way id climbing on a 10 year old harness or rope,im too much of a shitbag for that madness lol
  9. stihlmadasever
    Honestly- less than i should,but more than never.To be fair ive just got spankin new kit so chances of a failure in my kit are pretty low. Does anyone still do those ticky boxes weekly check sheets? Literally had thousands in our office at one point
  10. stihlmadasever
    Have you tried a knut hitch? Its the one hitch that bites under load,didnt bind up,doesnt need tending and advances well with a pulley. Give it a go
  11. stihlmadasever
    Further to a conversation with some other guys who sub i was wondering how many of you guys and girls loler your kit every 6 months or 12 for rigging kits. I regularly do my climbing kit and my rigging kits had a couple of inspections now but im toying with the idea of not bothering my arse. Im no loler inspector but ive been in the game long enough to spot issues and i would retire any kit i thought was suspect. Also does anyone loler chainsaw strops..??? Never lolerd a tool strop yet... Should i be..? I know some will come back with its the law,all kit must be lolerd..its your life on the line,so im prepared for that but im really intereted in the subbie climbers and what they think/do about regular lolers. TIA
  12. stihlmadasever
    Ive got 2 small caritools taped together-no wire gates-and regularly hang a 441 on em
  13. stihlmadasever
    Blocks and whoopi's ...nah-i rig through a crotch,I like to lower on the other end of my rope...no fear of the ppe police
  14. stihlmadasever
    If you think a head torch provides efficient lighting to use a chainsaw you need to your head examined pal. Even if its an emergency call out im not using a head torch,id use a tractor or a 4x4 for lighting in that situation
  15. stihlmadasever
    Lifes too short...im with bullman..ladders
  16. stihlmadasever
    I used to charge day rate irrelevant of how many hours id be working but that cost me work. Ive found when the job is almost done or just the raking up and blowing to do i get the tap on the shoulder and how much do i owe you mate. It works for me and gives the employer a little more control over how much he pays me.
  17. stihlmadasever
    Couple of times ive showed up at jobs to ground or climb or just drag and chip to find im using someone elses crap kit. Lesson learned Bring all my own kit to jobs now but as said before my price would reflect that. I do hourly rate rather than day rate as i find people grumble at giving you 130 quid for 4 hours work-even if you do bust your balls
  18. stihlmadasever
    Mark i know your busy but that conservatory roof needs a pressuse wash...surely you've had a leaflet through the door from the local caravan brigade...they do discount for pensioners ya know
  19. stihlmadasever
    The problem is theyre crap. Cheap build quality Difficult to start Starter coil has went half a dozen times Guidebar is made of papermache Poor power to weight ratio I could go on but like i say Crap- and nothing anyone will say will change my opinion
  20. stihlmadasever
    Saddle...??? You riding horses big boy..? We brits call em harnesses
  21. stihlmadasever
    Please dont touch a 135...it will taint your opinion of husqvarna chainsaws...
  22. stihlmadasever
    Dont think 346 available new anymore. You could pick one up 2nd hand but id say dont...most of the good 346's are guarded by loving owners...like me
  23. stihlmadasever
    Oooh thats saw porn. Ive got a 346xp myself run it on a 15" bar...it makes me smile...best 50cc saw ive came across..(that sounded a bit sexual)
  24. stihlmadasever
    I had a little 180 for god knows how long,i got it off an old fella for 80quid in great nick.I never serviced that saw in at least 3 years and it started easily and happy buried its little 12 inch bar through stuff a 251 would bog down in.. When it died i almost lost my manliness and cried. Just great little saws
  25. stihlmadasever
    If its only small stuff and it has to be stihl id recommend a stihl ms 180. 2bhp can run a 12 or 14 " bar and its all mechanical so no fancy electronic settings that go tits up after 6 weeks. Avoid the 181, seen 2 go pop in the last year back and forth to the manufacturer.

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