Haironyourchest

Nah that's crazy, there's a place advertising them in the UK for 6. I paid a tad under 8 euro a pack from Germany.

Eggs (beside the point, but) how'd the date the the former girlfriend go? Did you take her out in the end?

I discovered this product and have been using it for a while now, and it just works. It's a compressed biscuit, very dry, somewhat powdery, only slightly sweet. One box = nine biscuits = 2300 calories = about £6.00 Each biscuit is individually wrapped, and the stack of nine are vacuum sealed. Shelf life is 20 years. Three biscuits is a meal. And it's slow release calories. I have been experimenting with how long I can work on one biscuit before feeling low energy again, I reckon about 2 hours. They were developed for emergency food suppply in refugee/disaster situations. The makers claim you can eat these and nothing else for years without ill effect. For hardworking people who often forget or can't eat breakfast, or who's schedule makes lunch an annoyance, these things are the bomb. Easy to eat (with plenty water) and you don't feel stuffed, and don't get energy crash, so you can stay sharp and focussed and productive.

Pfffft. That's easy.

Say it really quickly three times!

Steve, I never realised there were forums for forum owners. Honestly, my curiosity is piqued - is it possible for normal people to lurk these forums? Any chance you could post a link?

Yup! Cleared right up. Should have tried the simple fix first.

Anyone tried the "Patronus" alcohol free weissbier from Lidl? Been off the booze for three or four months now, cant even remember. Don't miss it at all, not one bit, but I still spend the same amount of money on Patronus. Its like nectar.

US Army Field Manual 20-22 Vehicle Recovery Operations! https://www.bits.de/NRANEU/others/amd-us-archive/Fm20-22(62).pdf There's gold in that there manual. Excellently written, and forever relevant - the laws of physics never change. ?

You know, I've just found the solution: you get a bloody strong pole or something, stick it round the back of the house, with just a foot or so sticking out beyond the corner. Attach your winch to the end sticking out (chokered sling) and that's your anchor. Now, as you apply force, the pole will want to pivot on the edge of the corner, so you have made a reverse lever. You must stop this my anchoring the moving end of the pole. You can do this by either: A) sucuring it to the house with bolts. B) Blocking it with something heavy, like a car. Whatever you secure it with had better be strong enough though, cos if it fails under load the butt end will flip away from the house like a Roman trebuchet. The longer the pole, the less force will be needed to make it fast. Think leverage and practice with a mini mock-up first so we're clear about the physics. Honestly, that's what I'd opt for. Assuming the house wall is somewhat in line with the tree.

Good point above - I never thought about the DPC. Anchor into one of the side walls parallel with the direction of pull, and install the anchor as far back as you can, so the load will be compressing the entire wall edgewise. No way the wall will move then. But there will be shear forces on the bolt, and that's not what they're designed for, so use an oversize bolt. There will also be tortional forces on the immediate bricks around the bolt, which will be impossible to counter. A long plate, anchored with a series of bolts, will be the way to go. Something like a length of 10mm channel iron with some holes punched will do. And a hole in one of the side walls, close to the end, to attach your winch to. If you wanted to be really super-safe, you could get something L-shaped welded up that would wrap around the back corner of the house. Where there's a will, there's a way - let's not hoist the white rag just yet!

That was my first thought, but it presents a major problem: depending on the width of the house, your rope ends would meet (at a shackle and winch) at a very oblique angle, putting massive leverage on the anchor rope. In order to achieve the same WLL as a straight leg to anchor, you'd need the angle to be 120 degrees. Now, given we don't know the dimensions of the house, let's assume it's about 6 meters across. If so, we're looking at the winch being situated somewhere around 5 to 6 meters from the wall of the house. Now, this might be ok, if the grounds are big, and the distance to the tree is far enough. Or not. Also, the rope will be hammered on the house corners. This could be overcome by padding the corners with side-cut pipe, say, 6-8 inch diameter. That new type platic ridged road drain pipe would be ideal. And the pipe will be crushed unless packed out against the wall with something uncompressable as well. All very complicated. Ground anchor would be ideal, but maybe thats not possible, for some reason. Could be the whole place is tarmcked, concrete or landscaped. Could be utilities whereabouts unknown. Who knows? If there is a slab foundation, then I would suggest bolting to that. Anything is possible, if the perameters are known and the physics understood. Pics and specifications would be great.

Sonds dodgy, but depends on factors. How much of a pull witll you need to exert? Of what is the house constructed? What kind of anchor? If we're talking rawlbolts, you can Googe the load rating of different bolts, resin, conpression sleeve etc. If you spread the load between several bolts equally, via a series of pullies, it will help. But also need to consult engineering info about the load rating of substrate etc. Rawlbolts are pretty strong, I've pulled a big stone out a creek bed with one drilled in, with a chain hoist suspended from a nearby tree. It all depends on the load. If it's to just get a small leaner over, and the line angle is optimal, the load won't be that much.

True. But then we do have lots of water.

That's the one. Same guy, anyway.

Update - problem solved! It was the flue pipe. Packed with soot, mainly at the 45 degree bends. With the old light gauge pipe, I could tell if there was buildup by tapping the pipe, could hear the difference. The new pipe is heavy gauge, and was misleading my ear! Must get one of those grill powered rotary brushes and sweep more often. Thanks for your replies.

Update - I bought a standard long wooden handled sappie. Best thing ever. Gotta have the tongs as well though. Great combo...

I was watching a thing about a project in Africa, where they are restoring grassland. They discovered the problem was too few cows. The biosphere in their neck o the kids requires a certain concentration of roaming rumenants to survive. Without the cows, the grass doesn't get cropped, and dies standing in the winter, whereapon it chemically decomposes as opposed to biologically deconpises, which robs the soul of nutrients. The cows hoofs also break up the crust, which allows rain to penetrate and pool. Without the crust disruption, the rainfall runs off as is wasted. I'll try and find it again...

Hmmm. Well, I made a kind of "threshold" for the firebox just inside the door, just a bit of flat iron, and it still smoked. Tomorrow I will sweep the flue and see if that makes any difference. I guess if it does, I'll feel a bit silly... cheers for the reply.

Cheers, that's the Waterford 101, a clone of the traditional Jotul. My problem stove is the Waterford 100, an older model, same hight but wider and boxier.

Yeah, I tried, it's an ancient model, very little info on it. I think it's all there, two side baffles and the too baffle, all interlivking like they should. We're looking at getting a Jotul 602 if I can't sort the Waterford out. I'm going to try and make the firebox opening smaller by blanking off a few inches with bits of flat bar-stock and see if it helps. The Jotul had a bit of a "lip" on the floor end of the firebox opening, whereas the Waterford firebox is just flat all the way.

We replaced a great reliable Jotul with this Waterford 100, bought for cheap. I like the stove, well made, heavy, but by God it smokes. It smokes on lighting. Smokes when the fires going well and everything is hot. Basically if the door is opend, it smokes. The Jotul never smoked. Now, the Jotul was old with the internal baffels cracked, and I passed it on to a relative for his workshop. It was running a light gauge, single wall stainless flue, no probs. I gave the flue away with the Jotul, and bought a new flue for the Waterford 100, a heavier gauge, single wall stainless. Anyone have experience with this stove? I'm thinking the internal airflow Dynamics of the Waterford are just not as good as the Jotul. It also has a wider opening than the Jotul. Here's a pic. Ideas will be great fully received.

And download The Fundamentals Of General Tree Work from "The Educated Climber" website, very cheap, very detailed.

Buy the gear anyway, if it's not fun, you can resell it!

That pretty much my understanding. I don't know if you're referring to the gay wedding cake in the US or somewhere else, I know in the US case the supreme Court found in favor if the baker (the couple wanted two marzipan men engaged in sexual intercourse atop their cake, whether that made any difference to their ruling I don't know).