Haironyourchest

I prefer it thusly: [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CDClgRElouk[/ame]

I prefer it thusly: [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CDClgRElouk[/ame]

Welcome. All the ones I know seem to be happy people. It's not something everyone can do, climbing trees and cutting bits off. I cant. Take my hat off to those who can. Seems to give a high level of satisfaction, best of luck.

Like your avatar - Isis Load. Took me a few moments!

I mean harum...procol harum. Lies...Actually spent this afternoon listing to zappa playing in my van while filming myself killing chickens humanely whilst waring a policeman's hat. Then the rest of the afternoon plucking and pulling them on the steps and trying not to track gore through the house on trips to the stove for hot water. Will upload video this eve on my channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrHpSgjWVa1rm3aEYd5Ffvw

Being entertained by my harem....

Nobody's a good judge of character when it comes to that kind of thing. That's why they get away with it for so long. Makes you feel dirty having associated with that monster? Don't beat youself up about it. Whole communities, often close knit little communities which know everything about everone, are fooled by these people for years. I could tell you stories..... Were talking about a professional liar here....very sad, all the same.

The 180 is very much part of their "homeowner" series, and a different animal from the professional linup, just the same with husqvarna and echo. You will be looking at double the price for the equivalent "pro" modal, i.e, weight and cc. Any two stroke will burn up if its dogged. I would have thought your 180 could well handle that kind of work, provided: Perfectly filed chain all the time Perfectly fresh petrol with the right amount of 2-stroke for your type of cutting I would venture 40:1 (opinions vary, but whatever ratio you use it must be Stihl HP Ultra or similar top-shelf oil) Drive and nose sprocket in good nick. Clean bar at all times, oiler oiling etc. Tuned properly. Maybe tuned a little on the rich side. Clean air filter. No running the saw till its empty - you know when it revs up for a few seconds, indicating the petrol tank empty - big no-no according to most the folks on here. It causes a lean condition, too little fuel and oil, and repeatedly doing this can knacker the engine. And don't overstrain the saw. Let it cut at the speed it want to, no pressure. But then you'd be wanting to do all of those things with a pro saw as well.

Also bare in mind that you will have to sharpen the chain and file the rakers. Its a pain to get the rakers the right depth, but Stihl have a new file-holder system that works flawlessly and does the rakers every time you edge the chain. I don't know if the same or similar systems are available for oregon chain, maybe the sthil system will also work of oregon stuff, I don't know. My preference for Stihl has as much to do with their bars and chains as the saws....but then, there are also adapter kits to fit still bars to husky saws...or is it the other way around? Don't be seduced by the oregon "self-sharpening" chain system though. Bad juju....

I was always told its not the hours but regular servicing that counts. Laying idle can be just as damaging as operator abuse...

Just had a thought. What about mesh hordings but with two box profile "feet" maybe four feet long, perpendicular to the length of the hoarding, one at each end. On each "foot" - a pair of heavy duty trolly wheels. Think cheap-rubbish wheelie clothes-racks on steroids. You could make em up fairly easily, link them with chain or whatever, and wheel them around quickly. Slower than cones and tape - certainly, but maybe a trade off?

Yes, I can see that's a tricky one. No easy solution really....

Sorry I forgot my manners Arnold - welcome to the forum. Im relatively new here myself, its a really sound community, you'll love it here. I had a Ms250 too. Bought used but in new condition, sold recently to help fund a bigger saw. It was ok. Good power for the weight, vibes not to bad, pretty rugged. Hard to start, easy to flood (for me anyway) savage compression. All depends what size, and how much wood you be cutting on a regular basis. Hard to find the optimum saw, but I reckon you can get close with enough research.....

Sorry, just read the title of your post! My bad.

Ah the mystery chainsaw.....is it...a MS391?

Reading these posts leaves me feeling a bit shocked. Guess I don't get into "town" often enough......Is it a silly suggestion or would the final solution to this problem be mesh site hordings? No chance the public will make it past those.... I suppose its a toss up between risk and pain-in-the-ass. Would it be too onerous to erect actual physical barriers on every job? Im not being snarkey. I reckon if I had to contend with the kind of aggravation being described here I would feel it worth the hassle.

Thing that always puzzles me about innuendo....is which end does it go in?

K I get it now. I think you're absolutely right, it will knacker your tirfor cable, not immediately, but over time. The tirfor cable is metal core, to resist crushing, and really doesn't like being bent at sharp angles. I believe the usual forestry drum winch cable is fiber core and has more strands in it's composition, thus making it more suitable for bending under tension. Seems like you are getting a chain anyway, the only matter of debate is how to connect that chain to the tirfor cable. Well, thats simple, you connect to the hook. With a shackle or a master link. If the tirfor cable terminates in an eye - sans hook - then you just shackle onto the eye. Under no circumstances would you want to connect the load back to the cable itself at an angle, no how, no way :thumbup:

Wishbone Ash - Argus, used to spin the lp over and over. That was the extent of my music collection. Know all the lyrics. As a kid I was a few decades behind the times.......

Is the idea with the slider to the use the tirfor rope itself as the choker?

I just thought of something (that I did recently, not proud to admit, but at least I was aware of my mistake at the time) Could it be that the operator pinches the bar in a small branch, and then tries to free the saw by reaching out with the left hand to jiggle the branch while still holding the saw by the back handle with the right hand, finger on the trigger? I can see that being a danger to the left hand.

Don't you think its weird though that the left hand gets so many hits, when that's the hand thats always on the handle? When I finish a cut, and move around, my right hand may leave the back handle, but my left is permanently fixed to the front handle. The saw may move, and the chain may come into contact with my body or right hand, but no way the left. Im not disputing the data, I'd just love to know the reason.

I would be extremely careful to follow industry standards re. the assembly of your system, as you're gonna be tugging on it with a tensioned wire rope. If you rig up a heath-robinson and it comes undone....could find yourself in the "hurt locker"... So much great info on the web about chains and stuff, really addictive when you get into it.

My girlfriend had to leave the room 8 seconds into the second vid. She said her toenails were curling.....

Something that Im quite worried about actually. Must get some full wrap pants..... I read somewhere that the injuries to the left hand were from the days when chainsaws lacked chain breaks, all they had - apparently - was a ridged metal loop or some such thing, which would break the bones in the left hand in the event of a hard kickback. Or maybe the left hand stats are contributed to by guys holding and cutting with their top handles?