Paul in the woods

Have you checked the tip site directory? https://arbtalk.co.uk/recycling/nearby-tipsites/?nearby=20&lat=52.0078738&lon=-0.5276333

I find alder the size of the last pic easy to split and lighter than other woods. Which suggests your log isn't alder.

I've amended my post with the latest comments. I've included a bit more about the meters, added some calculations and added an example.

I've made several amendments to the proposed sticky to include a link to woodsure, add some calcs, explain a little about the meters and add some examples. I'll post up a new thread later and ask for it to be stickied. Firewood moisture content The Air Quality (Domestic Solid Fuels Standards) (England) Regulations coming into force soon stop small quantities of firewood from being supplied where the moisture content is above 20%. For details see: https://woodsure.co.uk/new-regulations-confirmed/ Moisture content of a piece of wood is defined in two ways: Wet basis which is a measure of the water in a log, expressed as the weight of water as a percentage of the wet/unseasoned log. (i.e. wood and water) Dry basis which is a measure of the water in a log, expressed as the weight of water as a percentage of the completely dry log. (i.e. just the wood) Firewood is measured on a wet basis and although the new law does not mention what basis is used it is relating to fuel so it can be assumed the moisture content should be 20% wet basis. One of the most common ways of measuring the moisture content is by using a pin moisture meter. These meters were originally sold for measuring materials used in construction where moisture is likely to be measured on a dry basis. Many wood moisture meters do not state what basis they use but even the ones now aimed at the firewood market are likely to measure on a dry basis. If you have a cheap moisture meter which measures on a dry basis it is worth noting 25% dry basis = 20% wet basis. Further information and useful calculations: Wet basis moisture content = (weight of water / weight of wet wood) * 100 = (weight of water / (weight of dry wood + weight of water)) * 100 = ((weight of wet wood - weight of dry wood) / (weight of wet wood)) * 100 Dry basis moisture content = (weight of water / weight of dry wood) * 100 = (weight of water / (weight of wet wood - weight of water)) * 100 = ((weight of wet wood - weight of dry wood) / weight of dry wood)* 100 You can convert from dry basis to wet basis using the following formula: Wet basis moisture content = (100 * Dry basis moisture content) / ( 100 + Dry basis moisture content) Further information including how to test the moisture content by drying test pieces of wood in an oven can be found in the following link. Note, this method could be used to confirm what basis a moisture meter uses to measure: https://www.forestresearch.gov.uk/documents/1979/FR_BEC_Testing_Moisture_Content_Simple_method_2011.pdf Example, if we take a freshly cut wet log with a wet weight of 2000g and we remove all the moisture until we are left with 1200g of dry wood we have removed 800g of water. So: Wet basis the moisture would be = (weight of water / weight of wet wood) * 100 = (800 / 2000) * 100 = 40% Dry basis the moisture would be = (weight of water / weight of dry wood ) * 100 = ( 800 / 1200 ) = 66.7% You can convert from dry basis to wet basis using the following formula: Mwet = (100 * Mdry) / (100 + Mdry) In the above example is (100 * 66.7) / (100 + 66.7) = 40%

Hopefully someone more knowledgable can advise, but you mentioned hedge in an earlier post. I note you may need permission from the LPA to remove a hedge as well. Something else to think about?

Firstly, from the photo there doesn't look like much airflow to season what you have. I stack mine in the open at this time to get the sun and wind through it. It's hard to say how much you need as I don't know your requirements. I just have a single wood burner but it's our main heating in a poorly insulated house. We easily get through 5 cubic meters and could do with having 10 cubic meters a year.

Any help? From: https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/tree-felling-getting-permission 4.1.4 Conservation areas For applications to fell growing trees in conservation areas, we will notify the LPA of the application and seek its views in respect of ‘the amenity of the district’. Once the felling licence has been issued, you should give the LPA at least six weeks’ notice before carrying out any felling, topping, lopping or uprooting work. However, you cannot give notice more than two years before the works being carried out. You should check with the LPA over this. Usually, the conservation area notice period gives LPAs the chance to protect the tree with a TPO before work starts, should it decide to do so. This could result in a new felling licence being required

Well spotted, I was going to add to my post that if there's an emergency you'd expect the network operators to be able to clear the cables if necessary. They often do that round here. In which case it would still be worth talking to them to see if more clearance is required and ensure you're both happy with the work.

Well, I've had two different arb companies do work clearing electric poles on my woods. The first I wouldn't complain as I wanted as much cleared/felled as possible but the ability to simply fell a tree left a lot to be desired. The 2nd team started off well in the fact they contacted me in advance and allowed me to spec the work. If I remember correctly they didn't give an exact date but turned up when they wanted which annoyed me a bit (it was bird nesting season). So, I wouldn't be at all surprised if they did fell the ash. Do not have contact details from them? If not, you can contact the power line operator and talk to them. It would be worth making a note of the numbers on the poles you have. They arb contractors do have the money to do the job properly so ensure they don't use heavy machinery if there may be dormice about for example.

Is it a Kestral, looks more like a young peregrine to me?

I didn't know there was a life on boots, does it explicitly state so on your instructions? I'm aware helmets have a life. As for their comfort, I'll agree with the others, not the most comfortable. A decent pair of long socks helps, I find they can chafe around the top as well as hurt your feet.

Moisture content of a piece of wood is defined in two ways. Wet basis which is a measure of the water in a log, expressed as the weight of water as a percentage of the wet/unseasoned log. (i.e. wood and water) Dry basis which is a measure of the water in a log, expressed as the weight of water as a percentage of the completely dry log. (i.e. just the wood) Firewood is measured on wet basis but wood for other uses such as construction may be measured on dry basis. Many wood moisture meters do not state what basis they use and are likely to measure on a dry basis. The Air Quality (Domestic Solid Fuels Standards) (England) Regulations coming into force soon stop small quantities of firewood from being supplied where the moisture content is above 20%. The law does not mention what basis is used but as it is relating to fuel it can be assumed the moisture content should be 20% wet basis. If you have a cheap moisture meter which measures on a dry basis it is worth noting 25% dry basis = 20% wet basis. Some useful calculations Wet basis moisture content = weight water / ( weight dry wood + weight water) * 100 Dry basis moisture content = (weight water / dry weight) * 100 You can convert from dry basis to wet basis using the following formula: Wet basis moisture content = 100 * Dry basis moisture content / ( 100 + Dry basis moisture content) Further information including how to test the moisture content by drying test pieces of wood in an oven can be found in the following link. Note, this method could be used to confirm what basis a moisture meter uses to measure: https://www.forestresearch.gov.uk/documents/1979/FR_BEC_Testing_Moisture_Content_Simple_method_2011.pdf

@Woodworks has asked for something to be written that can be stickied in the firewood section. I've written a first draft that may be over simple for some but is aimed more at people who don't know much about moisture content, perhaps a log customer who is checking a delivery of logs. Can I ask people to read though what's written and make any suggestions for changes. I can them make them in a new post for Steve to sticky. Many thanks.

Don't forget to upload a video!

I may well be in the same boat in a year or two. Loads of ash that may need to be removed and a supply of firewood that could last a decade. I know ash kept dry will last years but I don't have the money to build a vast wood shed. I've got some fallen ash trees that do rot quite quickly after a couple of years. So, how to keep it from rotting without spending vast amounts keeping it covered. I've been logging some young ash that's been down several months and I was surprised how easy it was to split. But it's already getting a bit dusty to cut.

That depends on what you have. I wonder how something like larch would compare to poplar or willow? I would rather process and burn larch. (Or more likely mill it and use around the garden).

I think it's been wet everywhere this year. Technically I live on the edge of a rain forest (temperate) and it's certainly lived up to that over the last 6-9 months. Most logs will go mouldy round here unless stacked well. I've got a pile of oak that's completely covered in moss in about 12 months. Going back to the OP, if mould is a concern then ash seems to be the least susceptible although I've even got ash with a huge flush of turkey tail.

I've had bloody rats living in one of my stacks. Droppings and rubbish everywhere. Smells too. Rank creatures. When I get round to building a decent sized woodstore I intend to raise the bottom a foot or so off the ground, not just for good air circulation but to try and reduce the amount of vermin. We occasionally get rats and mice, although I mostly tend to find the odd remains of something I assume the stoat has feasted on.

Birch is also fairly commonly sold/used even if it is a light and fast burning wood. Less common I'd say alder and hazel. If you wait a bit someone will put up a misleading poem.😉

I get stoats in mine.

If you stack it now and get air to it the mould will dry off and the logs will be perfectly usable. I like sycamore, it can go a bit mouldy under the bark but it seasons quickly. Burns a bit fast than ash but that's because it's less dense.

Yes, I've used * rather than +, I'll edit it.

Going off topic a bit, but if anyone is interested, I found an American site that has some details about their wood working moisture meters. Details in the FAQ section here: https://www.delmhorst.com/faqs/woodworking-industrial-and-mill It states "Resistance-type meters express moisture content as a percentage of the oven-dry weight of the wood." So that's dry basis. It also talks about driving pins a quarter of the way in to a board or using a pinless, magnetic field meter. Also, I posted this up a while back, https://www.forestresearch.gov.uk/documents/1979/FR_BEC_Testing_Moisture_Content_Simple_method_2011.pdf That has the statement: “Dry basis” is expressed as the percentage of the oven dry weight of the wood. For example, if the wood in a piece of timber weights 50kg and the water also weighs 50kg then the dry basis moisture content is 100%. The main advantage of this method is that the oven dry weight of the wood remains constant. This method is the standard used by many of the organisations doing research on wood, as well as building surveyors and architects. (It is rare to use dry basis measurements when talking about woodfuel) The MCdb = (Weight of water in a sample/ oven dry weight of sample)x100 I have assumed that if an architect is specifying moisture in dry basis then a chippy will be working with dry basis. I could be wrong of course.

There still doesn't seem to be anything stopping you from burning a huge pile of wet arisings. Just as long as you don't cause a nuisance. Check with your local council, mine seems to almost encourage them as they state there may not be an alternative.

As has been said, I gather it's the building trades so construction timber would be dry basis. Your planks I would assume would be sold dry basis. Firewood, biomass woodchip etc on wet basis.