Paul in the woods

Too small, minimum calibre is something like .270 in the UK.

It's frowned upon because if the deer moves you could leave it without a jaw to starve to death.

Good luck. If your friend is willing to mentor you that may well help. I think it's worth repeating if you do buy a 222/223 look into twist rates. I've seen some 223s with slow twist rates (1:14) really struggle with anything over 50gr. If you're looking for something for deer you'll probably need something around 1 in 9. Slow twist rates suit light bullets which are aimed at vermin. Edit to add, I would strongly suggest applying for a moderator at the same time as your rifle. You don't have to buy one straight away but you have good reason for one.

Sorry, I'm still a bit curios about this. A 222 will be using the same bullet as a 223, just pushing it a bit slower. Looking at the 50gr bullets it seems possible that some loads may be under the 1,000 ft/lb deer limit unless you are right on the limit of the load data. It also looks like you could load a 223 to be very similar to a 222 so I would have thought damage would be very similar. I only raise it as a 223 is more common so you'll have a better choice of ammunition and components if you ever home load.

Well you could read through the 271 pages of guidance... My understanding is that it's legal but not considered good reason on it's own to have. I.e. if you have one for ground game you could use it for fox provided your cert is conditions for all lawful quarry. I don't think this has changed but some forces may interpret the guidance differently. AHPP, Pigeonwatch is still fairly active for a forum.

Apologies for a bit more of a derail and if you already know this but I'd ensure the .222 is still legal with a lead free bullet as lead may well be banned for stalking in years to come. I also assume the .222 is like the .223 and fairly fussy on bullet weight and twist rates so again take care if you have to use lead free.

Does the potential customer not know who owns the tree? As has been said, a land search from the Land Registry may show. https://www.gov.uk/search-property-information-land-registry Note, not all property is registered, about 20% isn't. Also note, despite what you may be told all property is owned by someone. The unregistered land is likely to have not been sold for many years so it could be hard to track down who owns it. The Land Registry does provide advice on this. I have also found councils can be selective when it comes to ownership, it's there's when it suits and not there's when they need to do something. Even if you get plans they may not be definitive as a line on a map is only a guide to a boundary. Could you get agreement that they do not object to the work assuming your potential customer is going to pay for the work.

The RHS is worth a looking at for Honey Fungus advice. Some info about what to do (they suggest removing stumps and roots) and they also provide a list of less susceptible trees which may be of interest. https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/garden-health/disease/Honey-fungus https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/pdfs/honey-fungus-host-list

That's a reply breaming with confidence.

I certainly agree with the advice and I'm often pleasantly surprised how helpful some members are here. I would also add to that a warning to the OP that it's not unheard of for cash strapped councils to fight lost causes. However, unlike others who've ignored what the OP said or assumed they'll lying and condemned them I've assumed they've been fairly truthful and can easily understand why they did what they did.

That's a bit harsh. From what I can gather from the posts council used to own the tree and the land it was on. Council have not looked after trees on the land and not compensated anyone when they dropped limbs causing £1,000s of damage. Council offered to remove tree if the home owner paid. Home owner ended up buying the land from the council, council did not TPO tree. When the home owner started getting quotes to fell the council got wind and decided to TPO. I assumed one of the arborists enquired with the council about a TPO and that's why they acted? Again I assume some how the home owner got wind of the council getting wind and decided to ring bark said tree. (I've seen that suggested by people here before). Sadly I doubt we'll find out exactly what happened and the outcome.

Do you have a picture of the buds? To me it looks like a poorly grown garden ash tree. That matches up with being called a weed (weed is just a plant in a wrong place and plenty of people refer to trees as weeds). No doubt a picture of the buds will prove me wrong.

Assuming the poster is telling the truth then the damage was done before the TPO. Any idea why the council would not of TPOed the tree when it sold the land? Again, assuming what has been said is true, the council would have known the tree was going to be removed.

I note Briggs' Vanguard site recommends synthetic and states it should mean less oil consumption. Personally I'd use Briggs' synthetic oil and keep an eye on the level but I don't maintain engines. https://www.vanguardpower.com/eu/en_gb/support/faqs/browse/oil-recommendations.html

So, what do you do if you find something such as a firearm or ammunition?

I've heard it's the young males as well, although I thought the jury was still out on exactly why. I also know someone who's trees were always targeted in the depths of winter. I have also found that reducing the numbers does indeed keep the damage down. I had assumed the tree in discussion was in a back garden where squirrel control might be more difficult. If you want to try the control method I can suggest a couple of traps. But out in the woods a .410 is ideal or even dust off the old 12 bore when they greys get too used to you.

2nd what Openspaceman has said, it looks exactly like old grey squirrel damage. Some looks several years old. I've got some sycamore that gets badly damaged every year to such an extent the trees are almost dead. Probably not much you can do to prevent it, I find it happens around June although it can be most times of the year. Look out for strips of orangeish bark on the ground.

I don't know about large machinery but I've been to quite a few house clearance / bankrupt small company auctions over the last few years. They seem quite variable, something obvious often goes for too high a price. On the other hand, on the odd day, some things are an absolute bargain. That's complicated by the current climate where lots of people seem to be sitting on piles of cash from various grants and not being able to spend it.

Local Oak Sawmill | West Sussex | Northwood Forestry Ltd WWW.NORTHWOODFORESTRY.CO.UK Northwood Forestry Specialists in Oak Beams, Cladding, Oak Framed Buildings, Pergolas, Air Dried and Kiln Dried Oak... Retirement.

I don't think honey bees are that endangered, if anything some of the latest reports were saying that in some locations there may be too many. Other bees, bumbles, solitary and suchlike are far more at risk. They certainly have problems such as varroa but plenty of people are keeping them. I agree with Paddy though, some of the farmers round here seem to spray almost weekly which can't help. Thankfully my bees mainly forage on the pastures and woodlands and avoid the sprays.

This is where I feel / hope Woodsure will step in to help. It's highly likely your meter is measuring on a dry basis so anything under 25% dry basis is under the magical 20% wet basis. However, the only way to know for sure is to ask Stihl. (It would be very helpful if anyone who does get an answer from their manufacturer posts up what they say). I wrote the post to explain there is and will be confusion for everyone until things are clarified by Woodsure. As for the kiln dried oak, what's your meter's minimum measurement? I think some will only read down to about 6% so the wood may not be zero on the outside. I think the only way you'll get an accurate measurement is to try the oven dry method.

If we're talking honey bees I don't think there is any law. If one of my colonies swarms and settles in someone else's tree they are now their bees to do with what they want. At this time of year they should be a fairly small colony but starting to build up. You should see them flying now on a warm day. If you want to be sure you could contact the BBKA: Contact | British Beekeepers Association WWW.BBKA.ORG.UK National Charity for 25,000+ amateur beekeepers Or even find your local Bee keeper who may possibly help you remove them here (scroll down to the bottom of the page to find you local collector: Swarm removal | British Beekeepers Association WWW.BBKA.ORG.UK Beekeepers are often approached about winged, flying creatures, especially in the spring and summer period, when...

I have a Chillington wheelbarrow from Wickes with a puncture free wheel. The wheel has been fine for several years and is going to outlast the barrow by the looks of it. I've gone over some fairly rough ground and don't miss the pnumatic tyre. I also have another barrow with an innertube and puncture (well the innertube split around the valve) so agree with the poor quality. I've picked up a solid wheel for it but need to sort out an axel as all the wheels seem to be incompatible with all the barrows.

Have a search for hurley sticks on here, not suitable for everyone but a possible use.

I'm not sure I can add much to the comments already posted. Unless you were promised a certain moisture content or the wood was supplied by an accredited scheme (Woodsure Ready to Burn for example) then I guess they could supply anything. I'm not an expert on meters, just use one to help me season the wood I cut myself. Whilst looking into them it did seem the pin type are more reliable to the scanning method. Unseasoned ash will be about 35 - 40 % moisture so 50 - 70% sounds way out even for unseasoned wood. When you used the pin method on a split log did you push the pins all the way in? On my meter you get a lower reading until the pins are pushed a fair way in. 22%, assuming it's dry basis, would be acceptable. As has been said, you can dry a sample of wood in your oven to get a better reading (following the advice in the article). If you could get hold of a fresh ash log you could also see what your meter records for that.