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jfc

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Everything posted by jfc

  1. Aye, proper ratchet strapped into the tree - his bow saw is hung on a peg high up too - classy operator. He took £600 off a granny and left all the brash - the ladders have been there for months apparently - must be hundreds worth of ladders.
  2. Got a call to look at a tree that someone else had started then left halfway through (even left his ladders in the tree!). Horse chestnut has been half topped. The remaining half much of it is over rail lines. The stems have some decay in and the other half of the tree has been topped so there's a fair risk if it fails of it going on the railway. Anyone know under what circumstances network rail would do the work on safety grounds? Cheers, Jan.
  3. Hi Steve, Tried some apps and not thought much of em. I currently use a slightly higher tech version of the stick at 45degrees and pacing it out. I have an angle finder set at 45 degrees (cost about a £10) and laser distance tool £60, works well to about 25m (the laser measure is meant to work to 40m but won't pick up that well above 25m outside). If I were buying again I would go for one with 100m range. All the best, Jan.
  4. Scoop, as far as I know the basic lantra chainsaw course only covers felling trees to 200mm, if you want to do the aerial chainsaw course you need the 380mm felling ticket, which was nptc only. My knowledge is a from about 5yrs years ago so may be out of date. The lantra course is fine but as you are from rope accessories background I assume you will want climbing tickets eventually. You can easily top up the lantra to nptc 380mm but if you end goal is climbing it may be simpler to do nptc.
  5. I saw Picus being done on a tree I manage, I was surprised how fiddly it all was and how long it took to set up. Great to see inside a tree though.
  6. A photo of the tree would be helpful. You might get some useful comments about any structural issues.
  7. Removing small branches like that will reduce the wind sail effect and reduce the sway in strong winds. I agree with the other poster advising getting a tree report done. The report will either reassure you re the tree or can identify defects which can form the basis of another application to the council.
  8. Tricky situation. I am not clear about the 85cm you mention, what exactly has the TO agreed to. Also if you decline there proposed pruning is that not increasing the risk and absolving them of responsibility? All the best with it.
  9. Hi clive, is it your tree or a clients? My opinion is that it appears to be in a low value tree with nearby targets, if people are keen to keep the tree get it checked by someone local. Otherwise fell and replant. I too thought it looked like a pop.
  10. I believe the rule is that if the good wood left is >1/3 of the radius then the tree may be sound. Tricky to know how much sound wood there is of course. It looks like there are pavements etc nearby, is there a road too? Basically if the tree fails what/who would it hit? Jan.
  11. Doesn't look good. The holes look like woodworm to me but I am no expert. How far does the rot extend into the centre of the tree? Use a long screwdriver to check. What tree is it? What targets are there? All the best. Jan.
  12. I did the same a couple of years ago and made some rigging slings and it was very easy. Just follow the steps in the vids. I made a Fid with some stiff wire. I think the guy Matt storrer who's on here does good vids. All the best with it.
  13. jfc

    Snow

    Is it illegal to grow in holland?
  14. I can't add much to what has been said already. Lots of wise words in there. Takes time to get good and earn decent money as either an employee or sole trader. You have to be in a situation where you can afford to have the time to build it up. Hope you can keep going until then.
  15. Hi Guys, I will try and get back to see the tree again when I am doing the other work on the site. Might have more ideas on second viewing. I shall take a drill and long bit - not done that before - bored in with a saw before when felling but that sounds better. If I need a mewp Stefan P - said he was getting one, anyone heard from him lately ? - he has done stumps for me a few times. Might have found an excuse to buy a safebloc. More toys! Cheers, jan.
  16. Thanks guys. All this is tainted somewhat by a walk in the woods at xmas where I came across a just fallen big beech snapped at the base with Kretz obvious. Made me think, too much possibly! I have thought about getting in another climber and me running ropes, but I am not sure I want to send someone else up a tree I have reservations about. I tend to lead from the front with anything dodgy. Keep the ideas coming.
  17. My groundie is pretty new and not got enough experience for me to be comfortable with that. Can I ask what you would consider the right rigging kit? Safebloc? Cheers jan.
  18. Thanks steve, the tree is big 25m + and the stuff that needs lowered is right at the top so would shock load the tree. I will discuss it with the client. Jan.
  19. I visited a site to quote for some work, I noticed a big mature beech with a large patch of bark missing. On closer inspection I noticed what I am pretty sure is kretz. See photo. There's no room to fell it, so would need dismantled and maybe not possible to freefall it all. I am very wary of rigging it, what would you guys do? Is this a crane job? Fyi - This isn't the tree I was asked to quote on, it is in the grounds of a public building. I look forward to hearing the opinions! Cheers, Jan
  20. I have both 555 and 550. I like them both but for different reasons. 550 is lighter which you really feel at the end of a hard day. Great for cutting small diameter stuff. Also nice to use i n a tree when climbing. I have a 15" bar on it. 555 heavier but more powerful, more torque. If I have to cut anything over 300mm I prefer it to the 550. Run it with an 18" bar. On really big stuff I have a 395. When I was starting out I had the 555, as my only saw. It has been great. Stihl make great saws too, I don't think there is much between them and husky. One reason I use husky is they are my nearest dealer. Hope that is helpful. Jan.
  21. Sorry to read all this stihl. My main advice is to be very sensible taking ibuprofen/nsaids as directed ie with food etc. I ended up with a perforated ulcer from over doing it and not taking them properly. Also I think I read you do weights too. That will just add to the strain on your joints. Try and get more rest. Good luck, Jan.
  22. Hi, Good luck with all this. Couple of points for you. Tree work can be a nightmare in the rain. Some jobs are possible (easy dismantles) but branch walking on big trees in the wet isn't for me. Trunks become mega slippy and ropes lock up. You should learn a bit about pruning points etc. The pics you put up look pretty but aren't great reductions imo. Your age is no issue if you are in reasonable shape. All the best, Jan.
  23. I had the snip about 6yr ago. I tried a few harnesses before I bought mine (one in particular kept trapping my nads), can't remember which make. My current harness is fine (edelrid treecore), just suggest you try another one ?borrow one and see if that is more comfortable.
  24. I am really pleased with the tw160. When I was working for other folk I used bigger tw and Forst ?tr8 and they are quicker, but a lot more expensive. I've had my chipper almost a year and not really felt the need for anything bigger on my jobs. I do domestic stuff, just me and a groundy. If you are doing clearance jobs then a bigger one would make sense, but it is a serious step up in cost. One advantage of the smaller chippers is they are lighter, two of us can push it round a garden if we are leaving chip there.
  25. What mick says! I bought my own chipper this year, best thing I have bought. I got a tw160 new. The greenmech one is good too. People are also recommending TP, which I believe are cheaper. If you can put down a 6k deposit you only need a loan for about 6.5k. You might be able to reduce your costs a bit if you find places that want or take chip for free. Therefore no tip fees. Good luck with it. Jan.

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