jfc

I have been asked to do a quote to fell about 6 large trees on a site which is about to be developed. I have no experience with felling licenses so could do with some advice. The site is a prominent large house and surrounding grounds/garden (an acre or two). Another company has already felled a number of trees and have said that they will not fell anymore in this 3 month period (to stick to the <5 cubic metres rule), of not requiring a felling license. On the other hand the developer is going down the 'garden exception' route telling me the grounds are 'garden' and are therefore exempt from needing a felling license. I have read the FC Scotland info and am not sure how big a 'garden' can be before it needs a license. Any advice gratefully received. Jfc.

Hi Sk, When I spoke to the guy on the phone he offered to replace the leather bindings with velcro ones, which should hopefully be reliable. But he is not replying to any email or phone calls. I even offered to pay the cost price of changing to the velcro bindings, but got no reply.

Johnny, yep looking to buy a better pair of spikes - but I wish the Fisher's would have kept their offer of providing a replacement binding. I could then use them as spares - or a rescue set.

Just to make it clear from my first post - the spike bindings broke twice (after 3 months and 9 months). Not after a year.

Sorry for that Stefan - didn't mean for you to get into bother. You did a great job btw - I put a review up on Google reviews for you.

Hi Folks, I bought a set of Spikes from Fisher Direct a year a go, used them a few times and part of the leather calf binding broke, after a few emails and calls I got a replacement calf binding:thumbup1:. I hardly used the spikes after that as the company I was working for supplied them but the binding broke again in April same place- I have sent a number of emails (none of which hae been replied to), so rang and spoke with the guy who seems to run Fisher Direct, he agreed to replace the binding with some velcro ones if I sent time pictures. Which I did - but no reply - rang him, said he didn't get the pics. So sent them as tex msgs and asked him to acknowledge receipt (guess what) - no reply. I have tried ringing but think he has blocked my number, and never get to speak to him. Sent him another two emails asking for him to replace the dangerous binding - no reply. Any suggestions (I am thinking about getting Trading Standards involved as the bindings have failed in the same place twice and this could be dangerous) - anyone got any other suggestions. I know they are not expensive spikes (buy cheap and buy twice and all - it's what I could afford at the time) but I had used them less than 10 times, even cheap ones should be up to that. Jfc.

Mainly use it when balancing limbs so get the tension on both sides (of spiderleg) equal. 85cm i&i 8mm. Show it to my groundies as a friction knot to start climbing. Also use it as friction hitch for setting 2:1 or 4:1 systems.

Use it for balancing limbs when rigging. One end of balance I use a clove hitch with my spider leg, other end a sling.

Favourite rigging knot for heavier stuff (running bowline). Easy to undie after loading.

Use it on my lanyard, with a 75cm eye and eye. Generally 3 wraps and 3 braids, but will change that if need more or less friction. Also use it with my hitch climber - 70cm i&i 4 wraps, 2 braids, OP 10mm onto 13mm climbing line. + Grips well, easy to tend slack. - on hitch climber fixed eye on my climbing line can sometimes stop the VT from biting, but I am used to this happening occassionally and can quickly correct it one handed.

Figure 8 - I use it a lot (I come from a moutaineering background so used it before doing tree work). I use it for light rigging on my rigging line to create a loop for clipping slings into. I don't use it for heavy rigging as it can be difficult to untie. I also use it as a stopper knot on my rigging block when negative rigging to so I can tie my running bowline without the rigging rope pulling all the time. Because I can ie it quickly and know it is safe I use it if just needing a knot for something to clip into. Occassionally I use the re-woven figure 8 also.

Thanks for that David. ?That family are Saprotrophic from what I have read. I will suggest the golf course gardeners to keep an eye on it and take more photos if they come back and are not dessicated. Cheers, jfc.

Found these in a cavity in a White Poplar and some growing on a root about a foot away, tree otherwise appears healthy. Struggling to find them in my books and app. The fungi aren't in the best state either past it or something else happened to them. Help much appreciated. cheers jfc.

Hi felix, Just cleaned the crap off the chain to reveal Husq, not oregon. So that's the right chain. I've been looking at a couple of saws and chains this afternoon and must have assumed it was oregon. Doh! Thanks for that I would have made a fool of myself in the shop! Just did it here instead. Gotta love the anonymity of the net! jfc.

Hi Flatyre, Oregon chain will run on other bars, it might be worth you checking those chains again and seeing if they can go on your 560. jfc.

Hi All, Just been messing about with my saws for an hour or two and noticed that the chain on my Husky 555 is Oregon 25 (on drivelink) (also 25 on the cutter), which I believe makes it a 1/4" pitch. My Husky bar says .325". This is the chain the retailer installed for me when I bought the saw from new. I've been using it for a few months now and been sharpening it with a 4.8mm file (which I thought looked a bit big), compared to how my 4mm file it sits on my Stihl 200t. I never checked the drivelink size before as I was used to sharpening .325 with a 4.8mm file at work and just carried on. Have I got this right - Oregon 25 on drivelink is 1/4", and that a standard 555 with Husky bar runs .325". So the retailer has put on the wrong chain? Is it likely to have done damage to the bar,sprocket or saw? I will be talking to the retailer about it but could do with double checking/knowing what I'm talking about when I go in. Cheers, Jfc.

Not had that but the PL and NPTC certs seem reasonable, as it is on his property. References seems a bit OTT (presumably he is not paying for the work). Is it very near his property/has he got good reason to be nervous? All the best with it.

I couldn't get past the my details page (I had to submit a us/canada state even though I am UK based). Kept refusing to let me continue - without filling in State. So in the end I had to put in a state - just picked the first one Alabama!

Oldwoodcutter - thanks for trying to ID it, but the bark isn't red like that. Will try and get some more pics.

Never heard of wind-firming before - will look it up, sounds like it could be a goer. The tree appears healthy, but it is big still reckin 100ft and much bigger than any other tree round it. It is pretty exposed on a hillside open to westerly gales. I guess the reason they are worried about it is that 2 tree have blown over in that area in the last 5 years. One was a diseased Beech and a leylandii, so the owners have seen other tree go and are worried about this one. The owner thought it ws TPO'd, which was going to limit my options a bit, but it doesn't appear to be when I checked, so I will go have a chat and see what they want done. cheers.

So we have a couple of folk saying leave or fell it and one for reduce the co-dom 20ft, and one for do whatever the client wants. I guess if i do reduce it and it does blow over (onto the house) then I am at risk to litigation.

I questioned whether taking one of the co-dominant leaders out would cause as many problems as topping it. They don't really want it felled just less of a risk to neighbours. I wondered it taking off one of the tops would reduce the windsail and make it less likely to blow over.

Here's a pic of the leaves. Single stem is the underside.

Hi folks, I have been asked to reduce this tree, as the owner is worried that if it did blow over it would hit a neighbours house. It is big about 100ft, I have struggled to identify it (as I can find any cones), ?Douglas Fir. The owner has asked me to top it (which I'm not going to do)! The only other option I see would be to take off one of the co-dominant leaders, but would that cause almost as many problems as topping it? Any other suggestions gratefully received. Cheers jfc.

I can't believe I am the first one to say this but... I never needed any assistance 'pulling', however I am married now so those days are over! Used 2:1 quite a bit. I had never used 2 friction knots. I like the idea of having one at the anchor end to allow you to reset the knot on the pull line. Thanks for the videos.