cornish wood burner

Too small a boiler on a normal farm. You need to be looking for a boiler heating 50 houses, a factory, nursery etc .We buy round wood, dry and chip it but if I was offered some chip at a reasonable price and moisture content I would buy it. Leaves and fines present no problem to us, especially when mixed with our own chip. However as renewable john has said has to be local because of the transport.

Have exactly the same problem. I used packing tape for a while but not the most attractive. I am looking at cowls for the soffit outlets which according to my electrician improve things. Living in a radon producing area unfortunately we need the under floor vents. One thing you can do if you have suspended floors is to install under floor heating pipes between the joists. 50 mm of celotex under them to trap the heat and it will work well. I used 20mm poly prop pipe which gives off about 10 w per metre. I run this off a 'T' between my modified Rayburn and hot water tank. A small pump to circulate and all good. Before this the Rayburn used to boil the water so we had to run it to waste. Nice warm floors to walk on after a few hours.

We wouldn't be being sarcastic would we? Anyway it is an easy calculation to make but from memory if you want to move say a 1 kw from a room 10 deg hotter than the other then you need to move a few hundred cubic metres an hour. Fans normally have their output as part of their spec. A bathroom extractor for example might move around 100 cube an hour but it was a while ago now so don't take this as gospel.

We run fairly large biomass boilers and sometimes buy chip in but the quality can be variable. Stobarts are no exception. What sort of moisture content are you guys talking about. Cornwall is a bit far but if it is reasonable quality then you might find a user in your area you could deal with. Normally a 1MW boiler or larger will have a fairly robust feed system

Tree quip has done more saws I am sure so I would take his advice but I've used boiling water in the past on other pistons. Aluminium expands quicker than steel so the fit gets slacker. Just something to remember if your piston gudgen pin appears too tight.

Aspen gets over the stale fuel problem. Old fuel is blamed quite rightly for attacking fuel lines etc. 14 inch is a nice size for most jobs you will have. MS 211(35cc) runs a 14 inch well, I have one and I have no regrets buying it. Not sure it would like 16 much but it is on its option list.

Hi Tony You did not mentioned a chainsaw course so I suspect you may not have been on one. If my thoughts are correct I would recommend you do one. Things will happen quicker with your new saw so take it slow and carefull especially before you are familiar with it. Talk to your dealer at the very least. You will need some PPE if you havn't already got some. My order of importance would be Helmet, boots, steel toecap or better still chain saw ones, gloves, trousers. Do some reading reasearch on safety before you start. The little Stihl(171,181.211) handbook has some good info. Get yourself a patch /bill hook to clear the small branches before you start your saw work. Clear as you go, work carefully and safely. Good luck with it.

It may be good value but a big jump in speed, bar length etc from the op's electric saw. I would have thought we should consider / enquire if his technique is good before recommending a saw with an 18 inch bar. Personally I would not like it on my conscience if it kicked back and bit him.

Keep the chain sharp then you will be supprised what a 171 181 or 211 will cut. Logged up 3 ft diameter with my 211 in the past . Bought a bigger husky as well now but the little Stihl does fine. Just takes a little longer. Friend on mine has a small husky and has had oiler problems. Might be a one off. Price and dealer is something to study.'

If you are still talking about the tank filter bin it and fit new. Easy things first.

Signed but couldn't afford to donate , spent all my money on aspen today. Worth it though.

It always amazes me that a lot on here seem to hunt for bearings and seals in the equipment manufactures box. They do not make the seals and bearings so a timken bearing or the like will be just as good at a fraction of the price. Almost all bearing and seal suppliers offer a next day service so I would suggest doing what ES has done and get the parts quicker and cheaper probably. You just have read the number or get the seal or bearing measured.

If you do go down the wood boiler route it will save you money on gas. Whether you go the cheaper route as an option suggested by openspaceman or a better quality RHI quality boiler that is up to you and your finances. Payback is something to consider, RHI might tip the balance especially in view of your high usage. If you do consider this I would get at least two quotes but give the companies an idea of the size of house, temperatures and do not forget the good ventilation. Even if you do not accept any at least you will have some opinions on heat requirement. It might be worth considering running your underfloor directly from your new boiler and keeping the esse for dhw. When you fit the laddomat you can plumb to the top of your store presumably.

I fully understand your need for running the temperatures you do. What we need is to find a solution to enable you to do this. I have previously looked at the store web site and came to the conclusion that it was direct as you say(same water). Best answer to stop the cold water returning is a back end protection valve.(laddomat ) Your ease would in correctly then. Solar PV through the emersion is good. I believe you can get a monitor to feed it with any surplus rather than returning any to the grid. Expensive for 3 kw of heat to your water though. In view of the fact you have a plentyful supply of wood and need the heat I think I would go down the wood boiler route. Which one will need some research. One with a large wood capacity to run at night with one charge would be good. If you size your boiler correctly then gas should not be needed, possibly keep as a backup if you are away.

I think you have to put the bar on THEN the chain brake?

Spaceman , The occupants in your block of flats sound just like our foreign workers. All rad stats to max and windows open. If I was looking at the right one that thermal store appears to have direct tappings for a wood burner so not much chance of stratification with Stereo's setup. Any thoughts /opinion on the Navora and domestic RHI. 2.35 kw is not going to be much use for maintaing 20 deg with windows open.

Bottom line is you need a lot more heat. Have a look at the HDG Navora gasification wood boiler 20kw 150 Ltr capacity fire box so one loading would last a long time. Your installer should be able to check what size you need from your gas usage. Should make your gas boiler almost redundant. Not cheap at 8k ish but I imagine your gas bill is not peanuts either.

Just like the chainsaw section. Swinger with wide tracks if you need one.

Garden trug or fish food buckets Neither would qualify in the look good stakes though. Off load into a wood box for the lounge

I use a variety of sizes down to below 2 inch in my open fire, burns great. I have made several U shaped frames with legs to keep 2 or 3 metre length off the ground. The sides of the Us support a 2 metre high stack and allow the wind to blow through. Different size timber takes different drying times so I have several stacks. I cover them when partially dry or before the winter. I have a limited wood supply for my own use so use almost everything. The wife sometimes even cuts smaller twigs up with loppers or secateures for kindling. Softwood in the Rayburn and the good stuff for the open fire.

You forgot quiet. Could be a big consideration if neighbours are close.

Without going any further I am certain with a solid walled vented house you need much more heat than your esse can produce. The size of your thermal store is too small even if you had the energy to heat it. Enough to buffer an automatically fed wood burner starting up but pathetic as a store. You are not producing heat through the night so the store needed to be big enough to meet your demand. Only really suitable for dhw. Your esse's 2kw would be fine for dhw only. Your problem is the heating is draining the system and you are getting cold water back to the stove.causing a cold spot adjacent to the back boiler.This in turn as I am sure Alycidon would agree is bad for burning. You know the remedy for this. I see three choices for you. 1. Fit a bigger boiler to your esse if available or bigger esse W35 I believe. Not looked at the figures for this,but something to investigate. You still would need to run your stove 24/7 to make any impact on your heating. 2 Accept you are going to burn a lot of gas to run your heating 3 Install a small wood chip or pellet boiler to run your heating. I have no info on this but others might be able to tell you if you would be eligible for RHI. Do you need to have a well insulated property to qualify?

Certainly you need a control to keep the stove water temperature high. Can you read the store temperature at a few points, ie top middle bottom. I was after the max temperature your store gets up to. How many hours a day do you run your stove and after this what has the tank warmed up to. When you run it next try and get an approximate weight of wood/hour consumed when on full chat.

Are you sure about 2.25kw? ie less than 3 If that is right then its very low and not enough for the conditions you describe.