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cornish wood burner

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Everything posted by cornish wood burner

  1. TBH I can see an RCD not liking a fencer, all that stray voltage floating around is a recipe for tripping problems. Have you had other units on RCDs? Do the installation changes and checks already discussed. They could solve your problem. Check for water ingress into the unit if outside as farmer rod is probably thinking. If they normally work on protected circuits and all else fails then get an electrician in. I wouldn't want to tell him his job but I expect he will check the following. The unit and wiring to it, presumably new? The RCD itself could be over sensitive. They often trip too quickly Check the negative is not floating relative to earth, or has a few volts on it. For this application it might make a difference. Any other appliance on the circuit, you might have tipped the balance. I would be interested in the final solution BTW.
  2. It didn't have the time machine option on it then. Nice car even so. Joking aside it must be an appreciating classic.
  3. Certainly both worth a try. I'm not familiar with the circuit but that makes sense as all the live current needs to be picked up presumably by the earth stakes otherwise you will have an inbalance between pos and neg which will as you know will trip the RCD. Assuming you have an RCD fault of course. Another thing as already suggested is a mains wiring fault such as interchanged negative and earth.
  4. Residual current device. It measures current out in the positive and current back in the negative. Any difference is going to earth. More than 0.03 Amp then it trips. A tiny leakage current to earth will trip it. A person should be safe taking a 30 ma 240 v shock which is why they are fitted to socket ringmains
  5. If the trip has an RCD then the leakage current to earth will probably be the cause. Wet and more current to earth . 30 ma trip I expect?
  6. Thanks Shavey. My 52cc multi tool is going to get 50:1 the same as the saw in that case.
  7. Had some trouble with visqueen some years ago but as you say main cause of splitting along the seam is too long on the roll. Try XL I rate theirs better than visqueen. I presume you spotted their number on the previous page. Sizes you mentioned are presumably the tunnel footprint so you need to measure over the hoop. I am sure you know how much to allow for battening or clipping. Wish I only had two to do. Last count it was about 10 but that could easily change.
  8. I think a walkway down the middle as Sam suggests is a must. Even with a hurricane blowing through those centre bags will only see still air. We get problems if cord is stacked touching so worth the loss in storage space I would say.
  9. You can get polythene to do pretty much what you want Only ever used up to 1.5M bubble wrap but Ive never asked for wider .as that is the maximum purlin width in our glasshouses and it is a pig to handle in long lengths anyway. My supplier should have access to UV inhibitted unlike packing grade which MIGHT last a bit longer but I think carrage will probably be as much as the material. XL polythene/Smith and Jones Joe or Les 01404823975 mention Ian sent you. Burns well I would think but have a chat with them, they might know something I don't.
  10. Just had a quick look a prices and might be a bit more than that. Thought I saw one for £54 but ones I have just seen are close to £90.
  11. Hope you have a look at the fighting drag ones Jon. I love mine, best reel ever for playing carp. If might not be big but for sub 30 s its great.
  12. £20 to £25 perhaps but even if I had to buy new for £50 ish a fighting drag is well worth the extra IMO
  13. Hi Shavey Have you stayed with the 25/1. Personally I have not had nerve enough to to stray too far from this as most of my cuts have been full bar length(20 inch) Mine has been faultless too BTW.
  14. You really need commercial tunnels and polythene. Thicker tube and uv inhibiter in the poly. Working in nursery maintenance I have contacts that supply good quality if anyone needs poly or hoops.
  15. Good morning Jon Have a look at the shimano fighting drag reels. I have a couple and they are great little reels. Mine must be over 20 years old and never had a problem with them. Writing a bit worn but it looks like s or 5 GT 3000X Basicly they have a lever that is a quick drag realease. You can have your drag set fairly tight and quickly release line if the fish make a run. I keep the levers off to take the place of a baitrunner system. Much prefer them to baitrunners, they certainly fit in with light tackle
  16. Husky small mount if it is the same as mine which it almost certainly is.
  17. At the cheaper end, value for money Shakespeare takes a bit of beating. I have one of their match rods and once caught a 15 lb carp on it with no problems. Loads of rods out there to suit your budget. Multi tip are normally good value for what you get. You could probably get a half decent rod and reel for £100. My favourite rods are Leeda specialist 11/4 with cork handles. Quiver or float tips but a bit light for some carp lakes.
  18. I would use a rod with a bit more flex but most use heavier. Lakes I normally fish in have up to low 30s in them and I prefer my 1 3/4 lb rods. More fun with lighter tackle IMO and more give in the rod when the carp shakes its head, also most of the fish would be sub 20 anyway. Big advantage with a heavier rod as you no doubt know is you can cast a heavier ledger/feeder further and steer the carp away from the snags so depends on the lake as well as the fish. 3lb would be fine. Those big carp will take a bit of catching so plenty of relaxing time there jon. My favourite is free lining with bread on the surface with light tackle.. A small quiet lake on a cool summers evening and a loaf of crusty bread takes some beating.
  19. Hi Jon carp fishing is a nice way to relax but you can spend a little or a lot. Basics would be a rod around 2 lb test curve, reel, 8lb line and some braided for hook lengths which works well. 3 ft landing net, rod rest, chair, umbrella to keep your head and the beer cool. Start with one rod and if you like it then buy a second, bite alarms if you get serious. Your local shop is a good place to start unless you can get s/hand as you will get advice as well. Your gear will depend on where you fish, I normally fish lighter than most with rods 11/4 or 2lb and line from 6 to 15 if big carp with snags that you need to steer them away from. Get a book and read up on it first. You should get started for a couple of hundred if you go for cheap gear to start. It would not be wasted as if you get serious it will be either spare or you can have it set up to plumb the depth.
  20. Stubby don't tell anyone but I dont think TCD is a fan I wanted a split shaft machine multitool for use in my field/wood after work on the way home by car. I looked at a Km 130 but the bits I wanted came to over £1100. Being carefull lets say I ended up with a timber tech( probably the same machine as the timber pro) which has a lot more power for 1/7 the price of the stihl. It will obviously not last as long but it outperforms my 40 cc straight shaft stihl strimming with 4 mm precut square line. Vibration is a bit higher than the Stihl and the carb mounting bolts came loose so watch that, also I did knock off and lose the chain oil cap so not 100% reliable. Chainsaw attachment has cut up to 5 or 6 inch oak and ash with no issues. Keep the chain sharp and its fine. It all gets a bit heavy with the 1 metre extension but worth having. For an occasional user like me it is a very usefull tool for little money.
  21. Looks similar to mine but with a fuel primer I think. These cheap saws probably are a bit potluck and require mechanical sympathy although mine has had to endure bar length cuts from day one. If you at going to bounce a saw around then best get a s/h stihl or husky etc. That said we have had the plugs out on our 540T and 365 many times for the same amount of wood cut by my Chinese deko. The ad says the raptor has Oregon cutting gear so might be worth a go. Your money your choice, read the reviews on it then decide.
  22. Our window dividers on our x reg are several inches behind line of sight. Heater cable clip broken , side door is a bit iffy to lock, Small electrical issue a long time ago causing it not to rev. Cannot remember exactly but I think something to do with a switch or something in the throttle area. Still drives well but then again so do the transits I have driven.
  23. My 58 cc chinky saw has brought 15 tonnes of 40 to 50 inch diameter back to my store for me. It was advertised as 22 inch bar which is why I bought it. Actually 20 inch which was a disapointment but it has bags of torque quite low down and did the job. It was either a saw for £69 or a bigger bar and chain for a one off did not make sense. I was also interested to see what they were like. That's why I bought it. The saw comes with a rubbish chain followed closely by a poor bar but it did the job, just needed adjusting almost every tank of fuel. Engine is still fine and it starts as well as my husky or stihl. Probably warrants a good bar and chain. Chain tensioner is a bit primitive, just a slotted bolt but two bar clamping nuts so that's OK. To sum up you get what you pay for but for a small amount of wood then its worth a chance IMO.
  24. We use some from the biomass store in the MD's garden. Looks a bit sterile though. We also shred leylandii and other green waste and imo looks better and makes a better mulch.
  25. Good evening NFG and thanks. As they say never too old to learn.

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