cornish wood burner

1.4 kw is nowhere enough power for what I want but I want a split shaft to carry in my car boot. Any other options from the quality brands.

Don't worry I read that before posting. You bit fairly quick though. Atilla Stubby is right unfortunately. If you think you might want bigger then do it now.

Don't let stubby talk you into getting a 365. What size timber will you cut?

Welcome Atilla If you were thinking 435 or 211 presumably you were thinking around a 14inch bar. If you don't need bigger then get a saw to suit. If not cutting for a living no point in going oversize IMO, some will disagree though. Get a saw that suits what you have to cut. Smaller lighter saws are pleasant to handle and your cutting becomes a hobby rather than a chore. Longevity and reliability must be higher on your list than speed. Lots of good comment on here about makita/Dolmar. Handle as many contenders as you can and pick which you like the feel (and cost )of.

Only doing 1 ton/day/man.sounds like they didn't put much effort into it. However the weather must have a big influence on demand and consequently price. Perhaps a drop in demand and price made it unattractive for them. The reverse could happen if we get a few cold winters. At work we can easily use 30% more in a cold winter. Glasshouse insulation is obviously poorer than buildings but a cold winter must drive private demand up and also prolong heating use. If log merchants stock is exhausted then that will open the door for the w/e/w warriors again. Therefore guys it might be advisable to carry extra stock to keep out the competition.

And slope. What does relatively steep mean. Wheels or tracks needed. Travel across? Everyone is suggesting solutions blind.

That's a very short life even for visqueen. It always seemed to be a bit prone to splitting on the seam but may be a combination of composition and as as you think mainly rerolling. Providing the seam area is not flapping in the wind it should last at least 5 years without any problems. They used to offer a percentage depending on how long its been on and how long they say its life is. Suggest you think its only right that they come and help fit a new sheet.

I've heard that the body has to come off to change the turbos on a disco, is that right?

Old internationals have good flow and pressure 574 or one of that series if you could still find one.

Sounds like they may be rolling too tight or doing something wrong then. Depending on a lot of things we might be taking down 3x 40 metres and 2 x 22 metres of straight sided multispan. If it goes ahead in the next few years I will let you know.

I think you have done very well if only two of you. It sound like a straight sided higher tunnel would suit you but of course higher means more wind and harder to reach everything. We often roll in temporary battens to hold against the wind. We stop a roll short and leave the nail head out a little. If I understand correctly what you've done, it will put more longitudinal strain on the end hoop so I hope your ridge bar is fixed well to it. Also if you haven't braces from half way up the hoop to the ground inside it might pay to fit some. Should give you a nice big door though. It would be interesting whether your supplier has a jumbo roll or is supplied with small rolls if you can find out. Might even be the cause of your splitting problem if rolls are old

What sort of slope? As a measure could a 2 wheel drive tractor drive up and down. Could it travel across the slope. Would 4 WD be needed for up and down or steeper so tracks. Also have you a rough count of stump numbers.

I would but didn't see the forecast, tunnel not prepared, have to take the dog to the vet, car has a puncture and its Saturday and my guys will have run and hidden and I wont be able to contact them. That's my story anyway. Our recovering approach is very different to yours Pull poly over, align with ridge bar, nail one 2.4m batten one end, go to the other, pull like demons and batten that end. Work evenly up each side starting one batten in from the end, finally finish sides and ends to complete corners.

Might be a bit much for a dozer but a 25 ton swinger would have those out no problem. As the farmer is keen on grinding, perhaps you might get a good estimate of how long a big stump grinder would take on here. Only seen a small one in action and that was like watching paint dry.

I considered Dozer and ripper but hesitated with the thought that we have no info on stump size. However assuming the stumps were not massive then I would agree with pycoed. Many many years ago before 360s 'were readily available we had about10 acres of steep ground cleared. Dozer to rip the stumps out, crawler to plough and cultivate up and down the slope which in parts was too steep to drive a tractor across without putting the wheels out. Fairly sure the stumps went on a big bonfire. South facing it provided usefull grazing.

You have a bonfire and barbeque . Holes would be filled in/leveled by the machine that dug the stumps. Depends whether the farmer wants to cultivate the ground. Any stump remains will wreck his gear.

Most stumps come out in a few minuites with a wheeled digger and 1 ft bucket. How big were the trees and how steep is the ground. If huge trees a 360 to suit with a ripper tooth or small bucket.

You will have earnt your money today then. 5mph at work so we should have done one. Short staffed and lot of other things going on so no time unfortunately. Would yours be single span with the polythene dug in? Still a lot of work even if it is. When we bought visqueen it only came in standard lengths and the supplier didnt roll it. It came from further afield and might have been in a roll for a long time. Your supplier may be different but if he only offers standard lengths chances are he just buys a number of standard length rolls and puts them on his shelf and until someone wants that length. Worth enquiring I would think and if that's the case who knows how old it is. It might have changed now but visqueen used to be supplied in very neat but tight rolls which could cause too sharp a fold.

We've got an oak floor finished with polyX satin and its not too slippery. Great finish as it seems to polish up with the hoover. Been down about 5 years now and I am going to give it another coat as its lost its shine in the heavy traffic areas.

You will need to get a coarse blade for your hacksaw probably 3/8 pitch would suffice.

Trying for a free cover has to be worth a go. The reasons I can suggest for splitting on a fold are rolled too long, too sharp a fold, too much movement on the tunnel, poor polythene technology or a combination of these things. Assuming the roll has not been on your shelf for long and it was a precut standard length then possibly it sat on your suppliers shelf for a year or so before you received it. Could be worth checking the sheet date if it has one printed on it.

Visqueen used to be the market leader but seem to have stood still. For example 720 gauge used to be normal, competition brought out a more technical and stronger 600g. Visqueens answer 800g which is 33% heavier but no stronger. XL horticulture in devon will advise and supply you at a good price. Speak to Joe or Les

You will have stored it too long, put it on upside down even though there were no markings, tensioned it too much, not tensioned enough the other way, your hot spot will be the wrong type, you didn't warm it enough before fitting, you used the wrong grade for your area, your hoops will be too far apart but too close on the other tunnel and both will be too high. Do you know nothing!! We used to get exactly the same problem with visqueen but it was easily solved.

Because its visqueen

Good evening openspaceman Its not the danger of the weld cracking off that would worry me but the stress it would generate with the danger of crack propagation from weld to base metal. By the time that anvil is heat treated I wouldn't think there would be much to chose between costs and I know which I would rather stand in front of. Hard face has little ductility and so is prone to cracking as it cools. Not important on something like a digger bucket but a chipper anvil? Much easier to control heat treatment than welding stresses IMO. I may have misunderstood your original question but to clarify for others I'm sure it would be dangerous to hard face an originally hardened anvil. Neither hardface or a hardened anvil will have much ductility so cooling stress cracks will be present. Softer steel chosen to be hardfaced almost certainly will have a different composition and be able to absorb some of the welding stresses.