Macpherson

Very nice work you do, and yes the wasps can easily ruin a lot of nice wood, learnt that the hard way. Very little European larch here although it can be found, most Jap or perhaps hybrid which I find can be frustratingly full of tensions but I do like it all the same. A good combination up here in the wet west is Douglas for the frame and Larch cladding, cheers.

That's my take on it, if I try to detect through a dry beam for instance I don't get as clear a result to a standing or newly felled tree that may have wire at fence height. I joined this forum about 7 years ago to ask this question when I first got into milling and there have been many different views and experiences posted since then... the subject is quite hard to research and I did as you suggest, phoned round various dealers with mixed results until one guy gave me C Scopes number and I ended up taking to the owner / head designer who gave me a lot of tech info which led me to the 4pi.... second hand, which I always felt slightly guilty about😊 As tech moves along and milling gets more popular I wouldn't be surprised if there's better advice and detectors out there as mine is quite old now. I don't do anywhere near the milling as others on here and use an ms650 36" / 3/8" set up... a lot of the wood I get comes from in and around gardens / field margins with plenty of scope for metal but so far I've detected plenty and managed to avoided anything nasty, 🤞 good luck

Yep, that's the one I've got, had a quick look on ebay and only new ones at the moment but they do turn up s/h... I'm no expert, my only experience is with the 4pi but there's many other brands so I suppose you could compare claimed specs to find similar or better.... According to various inputs on previous threads detecting in general seems to be a bit of a dark art and like you said Garrett get a good name. Garrett Ace 200i Metal Detector WWW.EBAY.CO.UK ACE 200i, you can begin finding treasure right away—in your own yard or wherever you travel. With the quality and...

Hi, pulse induction types normally meant for wet sand etc seem to be the most reliable, none will be perfect as in see metal deep in the tree when crosscutting big stuff... but once you start slabbing most should be able to pick up any metal in the depth of the next cut at least, cheers.

Yep, I don't have 3 phase but then I'm just milling for my own project, I totally get the s/h value thing... in my experience often you can get a good buy s/h simply because the previous owner lost interest and the equipment did very little... you just need to bide your time and be lucky, cheers.

Yeah, I've only watched the Logosol official vids and also not seen many user reports.. I'm quite impressed by the set up in general but as with anything I buy the same as you, noise would be a main consideration.. although in a 1 off buy I'd probably go for the most versatile option I can get, which from a size point of view is probably a band saw, a small engine makes no noise in comparison to a chainsaw, cheers.

I see you've edited you're error, so I didn't get it wrong😁 ...although it will look like that now.

Ok , thought you'd got vids on you tube, guess I read it wrong

Put a link then 🙃

You're not wrong there, it's worth remembering that the Chinese were an advanced culture with their metal working, architecture, medicine etc a couple of thousand years ago when we were running around naked covered in blue paint The idea that civilisations are cyclical and go back much much further than we are led to believe is something that's being recognised and increasingly accepted by a small but growing school of thinking who are able to accept a bigger picture than that which we've traditionally been taught....oops, wrong thread... Anyway, just bought a 1/2" AF King Dick spanner, made in Birmingham since 1856 to go with the ' made in China ' bolt on magnetic plate recently acquired for my Alaskan from the good old US of A.... how totally global am I without even leaving my chair ? 😁

You've heard wrong....Vanishes exponentially like everything else.

Always done the same, there was a massive buy British campaign when I was young...back then with many things it was still possible to do and get quality with the opposition being ' made in Taiwan or japan ' pre China.... but frankly even then Japan was leaving us for dead. Today, when I need buy anything and look for it to be actually ' made in Britain ' and not just branded as such, based on my old fashioned loyalty / patriotism I'm usually unable to find what I'm looking for.. albeit, sometimes in certain specialist areas we are still on par with those that lead the world. Many of the tools I use every day have lasted my whole life so far, and many of these were s/h to me and previously had a whole another life with someone else which only increases there value to me.... So I'm more disappointed than anything else that GB's world leading engineering heritage has been thrown out by successive mindless and self destructive political regimes which have stripped the innovative life and spirit out of this country's heritage in favour of easy and dishonest greed, and have long since sold out our children's future..

Jeez, I knew there were differences but I never realised there were so many👍

I first bought a cheap Chinese battery saw 12" bar 3/8 chain [ Greenworks ] £110 ish maybe 5 or 6 years ago out of curiosity.. low chain speed but pulled relentlessly and felled / blocked many tons of firewood quite slowly and quietly... benefited greatly from a Stihl full chiz chain, had to be real careful with the poor quality of the adjustable bits but still as useable a toy today as when I bought it. A couple of years ago I bought The Stihl msa 200....didn't like the picco micro chain and converted it to 220 spec 3/8 full chiz... bloody great, 24 ms, for anything small or any garden job it's my go to saw 👍 With a 14" bar it also bores better than you might expect and on the odd occasion that I get to drop a large tree with an audience, I have to admit that I kinda revel in doing it with the little battery Stihl pushed to it's limits, when before I might have made a show of a big noisy brute... it's funny to see the disbelief in their faces when the tree drops with a total lack of bluster, and hopefully you can go on to sned it as much as possible before the battery dies.. always got a 'real' saw warmed up as a backup obviously. So don't be shy of buying the best you can afford and although these saws are really garden / firewood tools you won't regret it if that's what you do imo. cheers.

No brainer for you if you've already got the batteries and your only doing a little firewood, a mate of mines got the 36v Makita and it's fine for your purposes. cheers.

Nice pair of trousers there mate😄

Yep, on very small items and particularly pot metal like carb material much care is needed not to melt the item your trying to repair.. previous experience of welding / brazing / soldering with oxy acetylene is definitely a big help even although for most of these small repairs you can get away with using a plumbers blowtorch. Filling a hole like the problem the OP has is possibly the easiest application of this stuff but it's worth saying that the melted in material from the HTS rod is quite a bit harder than the original alloy so extra care is needed when drilling and tapping small repairs to avoid unexpected tool breakages. I think that the main reason for lack of flow when doing any alloy weld / solder operations is a combination of surface contamination with oils, ie not even a fingerprint... oxidisation and minute ferrous particles hence the SS wire brush, cheers.

It is easy Kriss, next time you need to repair something non ferrous give it a go.. all you need is a few basic tools a blowtorch and a stainless wire brush 👍

Good old JB weld would be perfect if This route was taken

Hi, If this is into Mag alloy it could be a perfect candidate for a HTS 2000 repair without taking the engine apart. I know this method has been rubbished on here before but totally wrongly imo, since finding this method a good few years ago I've managed to save many things that would have previously been unrepairable and scrap... it for sure works on magnesium alloy castings And to the OP... it's readily available on ebay and if you thought it worth a go... cleanliness and following the instructions to the T is the key to a possible easy fix, any questions, just ask. cheers.

Ok, I can see how that might work for homeowner advice questions if there are definitive answers, but it might get very confusing if there are multiple opinions or the correct answer is unpopular.....but that never happens😁

I also didn't have a clue wot that's all about... who decides what's most applicable, is it the number of votes up or down that determines the credibility of the answer then?

Me too, I've often wondered what some of the overgrown garden ' Cedar-ish ' type trees actually are, often got strong contrasting colours when split and had grown into monsters planted in the totally wrong place.... likely sold in garden centres as ' dwarf '

Yep I'm sure that's what it is, thanks.

When the trees were standing that was my guess and when I milled it and saw the colour I thought the same but it's just that other cedar I've milled in the area smelled more like aftershave. I've got some other stuff to mill that if I only touch with the saw I get the strong smell of Cedar even although it's been lying so long that the sapwood's mush. But as you pointed out WRC is really a Cypress I guess maybe that explains the difference in smell....I just find the ID of these type of trees difficult as there seem to be so many variations on a theme. Thanks.