SawTroll
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Everything posted by SawTroll
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An 84dl chain should fit that bar with a 7-pin rim, regardless if it is called 24" or 25" - I agree on double checking the chain... Btw, "called" bar lengths are very "approximate", and some times plain lies.
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As I read the IPL, it only shows one air filter option, but that may of course be a mistake? Anyway, there are disadvantages with "flocked" air filters: 1) They let in less air, some times not enough for full performance of the saw. 2) They are a PIA to keep clean. Be aware that the dust that appears inside the filter and in the carb etc. may be getting around the filter somehow, and not trough the filter material. Echo 501SX IPL.pdf
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Ignoring the truth is what Echo fanboys are really good at, as the truth just is too embarrassing.
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According to the only somewhat serious test I have seen of the 501SX, it isn't anywhere close to the 550xp in performance, and it was firmly placed in the "semi-pro" category = more comparable to a 353 or 545. Then there is the cheap and brittle feeling Echo plastic with sharp corners in the wrong places etc.
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A (full) chisel .325 NK chain would have been welcome, but neither the 95TXL or the new Swedish made Husky SP33 delivers that. Both replaces the 95VPX/H30, and obviously isn't the same chain. The attached pictures are from a Swedish chainsaw forum.
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The "silver" clutch cover isn't a sure way to determine if it is a NE/50cc one or not, as they often are swapped out/around. The presence of a purge bulb is a safer sign, but even that one isn't really safe - you have to look at the cylinder, and make sure it isn't an aftermarket one, or a lesser OEM Husky one. A serial number above 07 19XXXXX assures it left the factory as a NE one - but not what a used one is today. There even were 45cc NE ones, but as far as I know those only were sold in Japan.
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That's my choice as well - but 550 or 560 is a matter of priority between light weight and power. Then, the 50cc saw will be quite front heavy with a 20" bar, not an ideal combination at all. For more to the point advice, we will need to know more about how the saw and bar is going to be used.
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It is definitely not a semi pro saw, just a somewhat large "homeowner" class saw with a clamshell engine and a plastic case. It is among the better saws in that class though.
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True!
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I bought mine from the West coast of Canada, haven't found a closer source. If I had been in the UK, I likely would have opted for Sugihara from Rob instead, as it is a very close second to Tsumura according to the very comprehensive testing I have seen (on a couple of US saw forums). The Sugi light pro bars are a bit heavier than the Tsumura L&T bars in lengths over about 20" though, as the cutouts doesn't go as far back on the bars. Below that point te relationship in weight goes a bit back and forth, depending on the exact length in question. The tests I mention had main focus on cutting speeds and temperatures developed at some selected points with new bars, and didn't say anything about longevity (but I believe that it is excellent on both brands).
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Mostly Husky, Husky made by Oregon, Oregon and a couple of OEM Stihl - but also Tsumura L&T and Sugihara Superlight (laminated). The Tsumura and Sugi ones because I wanted them, the others because they were easily available when I needed them (or came with my saws).
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Looks like you got the story about "upside down". The 2083 (original 2083, not "mark" anything) was 82.4cc, and sold on most markets (including the US) from 1993 or so. The 2083 II was an "EPA special" that replaced the 2083 in 1998 on the US market. It used the 76.5cc engine of the 2077 - and basically was the same saw as the 2077 sold on other markets.
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Regular 3/8" isn't a problem, just get a small spline 3/8"x7 rim. For 3/8 low-pro/Picco you need a standard spline drum (that is listed for the 562xp, but fits the 550 as well), and the only rim option I know is the GB rims that chainsawbars.uk sell (specially made for them by GB). The Stihl Picco rims are mini spline, and the only drums they fit are some Stihl OEM ones, that fit only Stihl saws.
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I would prefer the bar to be a 16" and the chain to be Oregon LPX. LPX is a little faster and smoother in the cut than Stihl RS/RSC, even though the difference is small.
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It looks a bit "fishy" to me that they are selling downloads that usually are free on the Internet (if you can find them, that is)? I doubt they own any copyright for the manuals?
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I can't answer the question, but at least you chose the right chain!
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Yes, it looks that way - and then I don't know if there is a quality difference as well?
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True, the 445 has a worse power to weight ratio than the saw it replaced (the 345) - but then we are into pure "homeowner" class saws. As always, how the specs of a saw looks depends on what you (choose to) compare to.
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I assume you can change pitch and gauge on Echo saws, just like you can with other brands, so what is listed as standard on a model shouldn't be a decisive point. None of them has a great power to weight ratio, but at least the 390 doesn't have an utterly pathetic one (the 450 does).
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All current Jonsered models is a version of some Husky model - and they are made at some factory that Husky owns. Husky owns a lot of brands and factories around the world. This wasn't always the case though, long story indeed!
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The Zama carb of the 365 has a smaller venturi than the HD-12 (17mm vs 17.46 nominally), while you really would want a larger one. The 19mm+ RWJ-4 of the XT versions is an obvious candidate, but from what I recall you will need a few 385/390 parts to make it fit (at least the intake to the cylinder).
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Choosing a 6100 over a 560xp seems like a very bad deal to me, regarding performance, weight and handling - but each to their own. The 6100 also is a rather peculiar design, as they had to "design around" some patents. They didn't do it because it is a good option, but just to survive in the market.
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The screen blocks about 20% of the exhaust outlet, and that's when it is clean. The only disadvantage I can see with removing it is that foreign objects, insects etc may get into the muffler - but it hasn't happened yet to any of my saws, despite I always remove those screens. A slight adjustment to the carb may be needed.
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Forgot to say; Micro-lite is the same as NK/pixel.
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Finding a 3/8" lo-pro sprocket that fits the saw may well be a show-stopper, and there likely isn't much gain (if any) over using .325NK (narrow kerf/pixel) anyway, as long as you stay with semi chisel. The trouble with .325NK is that there isn't a chisel option available.
