SawTroll
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Everything posted by SawTroll
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If the bar can be saved depends on how much groove is left and how badly worn it is on the sides - but it hardly is worth the trouble anyway - assuming it isn't a rare one on an old collectible saw. The brands usually recommend changing the sprocket (or rim) every second chain, but at least rims usually last a bit longer than that, more like twice that with short chains on Oregon or Stihl branded rims (some of them have wear indicators, so you can see when they are "out of specs"). Rims usually are cheap, so it doesn't cost much to change them more often than strictly needed - spurs are more costly as they (mostly, there are exceptions) are part of the drum.
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For once I totally agree with you! I also agree with everyone that recommended Aspen.
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The package arrived safely today, and everything looks nice and correct according to my order. There was a couple of extras as well.
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I don't know if it is, but this thread is the first time I have read about that theory - and I will only believe it when evidence is presented. If that proves to be a fact, the issue would be more serious than I have been thinking....
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Try one of these chains and get a refund when you post your findings!
SawTroll replied to Rob D's topic in Chainsawbars
Pitch and gauge? Chisel or semi-chisel? Dl count? I don't find them among the "offers"... -
As Stihl obviously still is in denial about this issue, I guess the only way to live with those saws is to keep a supply of the involved parts around - remember that they are wear items in the first place. What is odd is that this never is a topic on any of the several other saw forums that I am on....
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I wouldn't discount that heat may be a factor as well, as the inboard clutch design means that area will be hotter than with an outboard. It hardly is the main cause though, just another contributing factor.
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Actually there are 3 reasons in this case; 1) Verify that the saw left the factory as a 45mm 50 Special 2) The never ending search for one that is may be made after 1989 (I have seen none so far) 3) Looking for a possible reason for the missing jubilee decal. 1989 week 47 answers all the above in my mind; 1) There is no reason to doubt it left the factory as a 50 Special, as it fits in the already established serial number range, and there were no similar looking other models made at that time 2) This one is made in 1989, like all the others I have seen 3) The decal likely is missing because the saw was made too late in 1989 to hit the UK market the same year. They started putting the jubilee decales on the saws late 1988, likely for a similar reason.
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The serial number of that saw would be very interesting!
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1986 week 3.
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If the starter decal is original on that one it is a 45mm 50 Special - but it is a bit odd that it doesn't have the 300 year jubilee decal on it, as most (if not all) of them were made in 1989. The model basically was replaced by the 51 in January 1990, or at least the first IPL for the 51 and 55 was dated January 1990. 50 Special vs 50R (SB 1989).pdf 50 Special vs 50R (SB 1990).pdf
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1987 week 13, and a regular 44mm 50, not a 45mm Special.
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I did, no problem today! The order should be in effect.
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Thanks, will see if I can find it today....
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I don't expect free shipping to where I am (Norway). However, I tried that site yesterday, and after selecting products I never found a way to view my "cart", or go further with the process from there? What's up - or am I just blind to something?
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Rob, is it possible to bars and chain sent to Norway? I'm talking about 2x Sugihara K095 mount Pro Lam 16" bars (Sugihara pro lam 16" .325 .058 66 drive links for Husqvarna 346XP), and 4x 21LPX-66 chains. What would the price on freight be on such a package to North Norway?
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You can, and you should. I don't know if the drum off the 026 fits the 029 though, so worst case you will have to get a new drum (preferably one of the rim and drum type, not a spur one).
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I agree on scrapping the spark arrest screen, unless it is mandatory where you cut. According to Husky documents max rpm is 12000 (not 12500) and initial carb settings H=1 L=1. This is for the late production orange top saws with the HS-254 carb.
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That's a silly high price, and still "reserve not met"
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The 251 isn't just an "update", it is a totally different design (but if it is better or worse remains to be seen, likely it depends on your priorities). The shortcomings of the 250 are plentiful, but the 251 is heavier - I wouldn't want to own either of them. All "tool-less" chain adjusters suck, not just the one on the MS250. The 346xp is in a totally different class, as it is a pro saw, and one of the best ever made.
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That is of course a valid point, specially at a forum like this, as it is the cases where something bad happened that becomes a topic - regardless if the reason was the product or the operator (or a useless dealer/saw tech). You seldom hear of all the Husky or Stihl saws that performed flawlessly year after year....
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I don't think it is quite that long ago, but it has happened, at least in Western Europe. However, in the US it still was sold as a current model the last time I looked (not long ago at all) - and I assume it still is current on several other markets as well.
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The 391 is a plastic cased homeowner saw, and has no relation at all to the 380 or 381. The 381 is the latest development of the ol' 72cc 038 Mag II (via the 380) - and made by Stihl in Brazil, for mostly "third world" markets. It is Pro saw, just badly outdated despite the upgrades. The 038 basically was replaced by the 044 in the late 1980s on "Western" markets.
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So are you apparently, and some times I wonder if you actually have a horse in the race.... There are lots of people that want the cheaper alternatives (or otherwise underdogs) to be just as good (or better than) the major brand options, but the fact is that it very seldom is the case - and it certainly isn't with 50 and 60cc pro class chainsaws.
