SawTroll

Thanks, that's cool! Will there be any with the SM inner diameter? Many people around the world have been annoyed that lo-pro rims haven't been available for standard and/or small 7-sline drums - just for the Stihl mini 7-spline.

Sounds like that - and the difference between the common gauges are much less than halv a mm. The most common ones go 1.3, 1.5 and 1.6 mm. To really answer the question, more info on the involved bar and chain is needed, like the gauge of the bar (it usually is stamped or printed on them) - and model of chain, or the numbers on the tang of the chain drivers. Pictures would be helpful.

The saw may of course become rear heavy with a light 15" bar on it. How people like that balanse will of course vary. There is of course nothing wrong with trying! Depending on what you usually use, you may want to try a larger sprocket rim with that setup, specially for limbing.

It is different, they don't interchange.

When was the saw made? Serial number?

I assume that will vary, so the buyer better ask the seller. K095 (small Husky) is correct, unless something has been changed lately.

To me, it doesn't look like there are any decent options "outside the box".

Yes, and my point is that the saw only is interesting where it is cheap enough to be an alternative to "homeowner" saws, not where it is an alternative to pro saws. It is what it is, no more and no less - a fine saw for the price on some markets, but not a stellar one on any market.

The engines are crap, as are the other parts, including what is also sold as aftermarket plastic parts. So far, they have been easy enough to tell apart from the originals, based on several details (that I obviously won't list). The fakes that aren't even copies are much worse, and can be had in any color that the ones that buy a pallet wants, to vaguely resemble Husky or Stihl (or other brands) colors. The scammer can then add the decales he wants to - crappy 52cc saw presented as "395xp" and "MS440" are exemples that I remember.....

Upside down.

No, but you and some others are misreading me on purpose, trying to make it look that way! I am no less critical to Husky, when they make something that I don't like - and they do.

I have said a couple of times already that it is a very good saw for the price.

I heard of the 882 about a decade ago, but not the 881. That 882 was a double ended bar with a 441 attached in each end though, not a new powerhead...

My point actually isn't that it is slightly heavier than anything - but that any minor weigth saving vs. the 550xp is worthless, when you loose a lot of power, and it doesn't handle as well.

If you are so open-minded, you should easily tolerate that others have different wiews on things than yourself. A forum would be worthless if there isn't room for both positive and negative comments on the products it is about.

Not everyone has a chance to "do a few". I have 3 of those saws (353G, NE346xpg and 2153WH), but never had to "do" any of them.

Jonsered 2077, 2083 and other saws in that "family" (Partner and Poulan Pro) is what Husky mentioned in a TI once - and I have been told that at least some Stihl model ones (believe 038 is one, but memory may be off) will fit as well. Of course it doesn't have to be a chainsaw related one, as long as the diameter and width is compatible.

Yes, sort of - but you can always use a screw type clamp in its place, to avoid the knuckle damage.

The issues mainly disappered, after the 2006 update. SB, 357 XP, 359, 353, 346 XP, Partition wall and clamp for intake system, 2006-03 The existing intake system on 357XP, 359,353 and 346XP currently consists of an integrated plastic clamp in the partition wall. As the clamp is made of plastic, there is a risk of deformation. This results in impaired clamping force against the cylinder, which in turn can result in leakage in the intake system. To prevent this from occurring, we have now introduced a metal clamp and a new partition wall. The new partition wall is made up of polyamide with 30 % fibre glass. The new clamp is a hardened steel clamp. The new material and the design of the clamp reduce the risk of deformation and the subsequent risk of leakage. Full replaceability prevails. Introduced from serial number: 357XP 061100201 359 061100001 353 061100001 346XP 061100001 New part no. Description Excl. part. no. Remark 537 25 13-02 Partition wall, intake, complete New spare part 537 43 88-01 Clamp, intake New spare part Spare part, partition wall, part number 537 25 13-01, has been discontinued and is replaced by part number 537 25 13-02.

A HDA-87 would be ideal, but a -120 or -144 also is an improvement over the original.

As a general rule, all am cylinders need porting work to perform anywhere close to OEM. Some can perform very well after extensive porting, but how long they will last is an open question....

The top cover issue can be solved in different ways, it isn't really a "showstopper" - I just don't know the details.

An OEM 272xp top end is a much better choise - but anyway he would need a carb and intake for the 272 as well, and it won't fit under the original top cover. A 268/272 top cover doesn't fit (not really sure with the orange top 61s made from about 1991). Meteor usually makes much better pistons than cylinders, but are improving their cylinders as far as I know. Hyway, I wouldn't even consider - but they likely aren't among the very worst am stuff. The kits aren't "big bore kits", they just are 272xp kits.

You may need to use skip chain with a longer bar.

Even a 20" is long on a 61 - they aren't really strong saws.