SawTroll
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Everything posted by SawTroll
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Major air leak.
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That was my first thought as well - it may be time to change to Aspen fuel.
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If I understand you right, that isn't the way to do it. If the chain is creeping at idle, you need to adjust your idle screw, until it doesn't. The chain should be easy to pull around the bar by hand (engine off). It shouldn't move at idle - that just means the idle rpm is too high, so the clutch is partly engaging.
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Most reasonably modern ones, yes - as the 362xp was a 62.4cc engine on basically a 70cc saw design. Still, the MS362 and the PS-6100 are pretty close to it in weight, and the Echo 620 is heavier. If anyone regards the PS-6400 as a 60cc saw, that one is much heavier.
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If you want a well handling 60cc saw, the 560xp is a better alternative.
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Well, it is a lot lighter than the 362xp, and the 362xp isn't a quad. The 361 actually is much closer to the 357xp in most ways, but lighter and a little stronger. The inboard clutch is the only real flaw with it - but it handles surpricingly well for an inboard clutch design (the 026/260 does as well). With the 362 and 261, it all went down the drains.....
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It is a liability when you get used to it, and it suddenly doesn't work. There has been a lot of trouble with the quickstop super, including call backs. Apart from that it is annoying, and adds weight and complexity/maintenance.
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I never had any such issue with my MS361W ( and no other issues). Sadly, the saw got stolen (along with a 372xpg).
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Too tight chains can cause a lot of damage, related to the crank and bearings. No sag, no drag is a good rule - it should be easy to move the chain by hand (no drag).
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That likely is overdoing it, but it needs to be done now and then. It is easy on many Husky saws, as you can grease from the end of the crank.
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Not surprising, as a spur sprocket on a 261 would be a rarity.
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The 2101 replaced the 2100 early 1987, and was close to 100% the same saw. For most practical purposes, it was the 394 that replaced the 2100/2101, in 1990 (at least on many markets). The 3120 had nothing to do with this, it is a much larger saw, that appeared in 1988 - and didn't replace anything. It was mainly meant to counter the 084.
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Better change to rim o the 241 as well, when it is time for a change (wear). I highly doubt the MS261 troubles have anything to do with the type of drum/sprocket!
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Removing the outboard clutch on a newer Husky model isn't much hazzle - you just need a suitable screwdriver or chisel, and something to hit it sharply with. No piston stop or other special tools are needed, and the are no small parts to loose. The outboard improves the handling quite a bit, as the bar is getting closer to the centre of mass of the saw. Then it improves cooling, and there is less chanse of bending or breaking the crank. The clutch side bearing also have a better "life" with less force on it, and keeping things clean in that area is easier.
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I didn't write it though (even though I agree with some of it). It just looks that way in your quote because the poster originally was quoting me, and messed it up.
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Desperate Stihl fans often claim that they love them - on some other chainsaw forums......
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Every MS261 needs to be changed out for a 550xp, that is smaller, lighter and much more nimble.
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It is heavier than the MS241, and both are far too close to the 550xp in weight to make any sense. Both are hadicapped by an inboard clutch as well, regarding handling. The only real reason to buy a 420SC/421 is if the price is low enough, and the alternative option is a plastic cased clamshell saw of comparable power.
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If it is cheap. it is a good saw for the money. It is heavy for the cc and power though, and the inboard clutch design as a negative effect on the handling, specially for limbing and such work. If it has a cat muffler, the cat will of course have to be removed. Quality is high, for a saw that isn't supposed to be a pro saw.
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I like Oregon LPX slightly better than Stihl RS/RSC in .325, as it is slightly faster and smoother. Longer cutters as well, that should translate into lasting longer. I like both though, no big deal!
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New GB 3/8 lo pro rim ST internal external 3/8 lo pro
SawTroll replied to Rob D's topic in Chainsawbars
What does the ST inner diameter code really mean? Is it the Stihl specific "mini" 7-spline, or is it the "normal" small 7-spline? -
Far from all - but they do make most 20" and longer ones, exceot the Techlites.
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I found the "special offer" Light Pro in 16" 3/8" - but .325 16", and 3/8" in 18 and 20" still is missing from the offerings. It is a good thing that they use slimmer profile bars in .325 than in 3/8" - that way they suit 50cc saws better. I always use 3/8" on 60cc saws.
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A lot more is operator error, than most people seem the think!
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www.chainsawbars.co.uk CHAIN EVENT - stock up on your chains this weekend!
SawTroll replied to Rob D's topic in Chainsawbars
That would have been my issue here, as the Sugi lights in 16" and in small Husky mount and 3/8" still seem to not be offered?
