SawTroll

Starting issues with those saws usually turn out to be operator errors - mainly from people not looking in the manual, but doing it as they are used to....

Another option is to fit a regular screw type hose clamp, like hose clamp 503 56 00-03.

Aspen!

My 1970 vintage one always have ran perfectly, but that's with Aspen alkylate premix - not pump gas.....

Does anyone really care, not an interesting model anyway too large and clumcy for the cc?

Reportedly (I haven't tried), it works well to file them into round ones, with the added advantage of the top plates initially being longer (I don't know if that is the case with all of them).

Sounds like you have a long bar!

The 235, 236 and 240 basically are the same saw, but there may be different details, like with or without a tool-less chain adjuster (which affects the clutch covers and more). Look in the part lists on Huskys website, to see what fits or not, on the version you have.

The best answer usually is 346xp!

Are there any news about small Husky mount Pro Lite bars .325 16", and in 3/8" in general? I don't find anything on the website?

Try any Husky dealer, by all means avoid any Asian aftermarket parts. Also, Husky parts generally are the easiest of all to buy on the Internet, but I have no knowledge of the UK situation? The early 346xp saws didn't have the air filter with the clip, but rather a twist-on one. My 2003 353 has that variant, and it never caused any issues. Remember to order the right one, if you are replacing your filter, or getting spares. Avoid the black-bodied "winter" filters. http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/partslist/husqvarna346xp-2001-06.pdf http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/partslist/husqvarna346xp-1999-03.PDF

As already has been said - there is no need to complicate this with special tools or piston stops - a sharp blow on a suitable chisel/drift/screwdriver is all it takes.

Yes, 00 4400516 is the serial number - meaning it is from 2000 week 44, and number 516 that week. The background for my question was to find if it had the old or the new intake parts - and now you have found an air leak there, so no wonder the piston was scored. You need to get the new intake parts listed here; SB, 357 XP, 359, 353, 346 XP, Partition wall and clamp for intake system, 2006-03 The existing intake system on 357XP, 359,353 and 346XP currently consists of an integrated plastic clamp in the partition wall. As the clamp is made of plastic, there is a risk of deformation. This results in impaired clamping force against the cylinder, which in turn can result in leakage in the intake system. To prevent this from occurring, we have now introduced a metal clamp and a new partition wall. The new partition wall is made up of polyamide with 30 % fibre glass. The new clamp is a hardened steel clamp. The new material and the design of the clamp reduce the risk of deformation and the subsequent risk of leakage. Full replaceability prevails. Introduced from serial number: 357XP 061100201 359 061100001 353 061100001 346XP 061100001 New part no. Description Excl. part. no. Remark 537 25 13-02 Partition wall, intake, complete New spare part 537 43 88-01 Clamp, intake New spare part Spare part, partition wall, part number 537 25 13-01, has been discontinued and is replaced by part number 537 25 13-02. + the intake bellow itself, if it is damaged - look it up here. Also check if the impulse is OK, and change it if needed.

I assume he meant "leaving it out" (closed) = not using it?

When was the saw made? Serial number?

It isn't that simple - not even close!

True - those outboard Husky clutches must be the easiest of all to (litterally) knock off. There is ZERO need for any special tools - even a scrench and a suitable stick of wood works.

Have you really checked why the compression is low? Actually, the 42mm 346xp is a very good performer as it is, specially as a limbing saw - and certainly better than most aftermarket kits. Best case you may just need a new piston ring, or a Meteor or OEM piston. The OEM 44.3mm kit will perform better in larger wood though.

A lot of aftermarket kits that is said to fit the 346xp isn't even an attempt to copy the design/porting of the original - but an OEM 44.3 mm kit will be a streight bolt-on. If it has to be aftermarket, Meteor likely is the only decent option.

Solo is well known for very "optimistic" power and weight specs though.....

Even the 603 has much less cc than a 3120 - it was more of an aswer to the Dolmar 153.

The production change was from 2007 week 19.

Vapor lock may have something to do with it - and is more likely if the fuel contains ethanol. Use the "fast idle" for warm starting, if you aren't already.

Do we actually know if all the crankshafts and clutches were exactly the same? As I recall it, changes did happen on other 2xx series saw models in the mid to late 1980. It may be worth it to look trough the IPLs. Then again - you may just have got a faulty chutch.....

The relatively few 550/560 etc. starting issues I have heard of has ultimately turned out to be operator errors. 346 issues are almost unheard of. The MS261 isn't known to be particularly reliable, and it also is too large and clumcy for a 50cc saw. Same with the 50cc Dolmars. An important part of the reason is the inboard clutch design(s).