TGB

Nope!

Just checked Aspen's website and prices are as follows: Aspen 2 £4.16 bottle 5Ltr £18.16 can 200Ltr £463.20 drum Aspen 4 1Ltr £4.04 bottle 5Ltr £17.95 can 200Ltr £652.31 drum Bio Chain Oil 1Ltr £17.12 3Ltr £27.50 20Ltr £109.80

As above - we have thickness & quantity, we need exact lengths and minimal widths.

Used to know someone with the reg. K4YAK. He kayaked and canoed a lot. But was forced to sell it when between jobs.

Forgive me on this please, idiot alert. Does one have to register separately for 'Arbtrader' or is it akin to 'Arbtalk', i.e. could my Arbtalk username & password get me in?

PM sent.

Got a friend who's got a MS 171 on 14" and it bogs on anything thicker than 100mm... if it's decided to run that day.

Even in rock climbing terms, a 'Figure of 8' is only really used as a descender. (Though they can be used for ascending at a push or should that be be, 'at a heave'?) And can't be locked off on its own. Yes you can lock-off by wrapping a couple of winds round a thigh, for say cleaning a hold in readiness for an ascent. But even then, the climber has to hold the loose end. Many rock climbers now save weight by using something like a Petzl Reverso or Gri Gri or Wild Country Variable Controller. The Gri Gri is the heaviest of the small descenders but also one of the safest. But even a Gri Gri need a holding hand on the loose end, as there have been cases of failure through slippage in use. If you want light-weight and quick ascending in rock climbing. Using a 'Shunt' is good but it has a major downside, in that the 'Shunt' will only lock-off on a vertical rope. If you were to fall from one side or pendulum, you could well hit the deck.

Not had a notification about it. That might be because I use an iPod Touch or because I'm still on IOS 5. Didn't 'update' as I like 'Google Maps' and that's not included in '6'. Yes I know you can get G.M.s as an app if you jail-break the iPod. But I don't want to do that, plus that's a cut-down version.

Eddie, the man who doesn't rest on his laurels. Not even sure he rests at all.

I find these sort of programmes/articles fascinating. Brian Cox (Dr./Prof.), Prof. Iain Stewart, David Attenborough, Ray Mears, Prof. Marcus du Sautoy and a number of others - yes. So knowledgeable and on the whole, able to impart at least some of that knowledge and understanding into the brains of others. Though 'Prof. Marcus du Sautoy' does go on at a rate of knots, often too fast. But that just makes me want to watch/read on for more info. I particularly like the programmes of Prof. Iain Stewart but I'm really interested in volcanos & tectonics. But you asked a question didn't you? The answer to which is, no, I don't sleep with Brian Cox.

On the whole that may be. But by the same reckoning, that would make the MS 170D a pro saw and the MS 241 C-M a domestic saw.

Treegeek is not one person but actually a triple collective. But none of them can correctly spell three.

A cross between a planer stop, and chainsaw and the right hand of Peter Pan's worst foe. Considering you're not allowed to use normal chainsaws on building sites these days, this seems a good compromise. However, it does mean you need to have something like 8" either side of the cut.

They're not allied to a Spanish company by any chance? Where 3mths would be the minimum period and in some cases 6mths. is the norm.

The manual says on first start-up, to calibrate the 'AutoTune'. To do this in the prescribed manner... "Accelerate the engine to full throttle and saw a number of cuts in a thick log (3-5 min.) The chain saw must be run (8,000 - 12,000 rpm) the entire time so that the carburettor can adjust itself." Now if that's not vague, please tell me what is. I've asked the question before, is it 3-5 cuts or 3-5 minutes... But let's not dwell on that now. Quick question here: Why aren't these saws sold with a tacho or can people tell when a saw is going 8,000-12,000rpm? When I read through the manual, I then contacted the dealer, who said you just need to do it the once and, "Just work the saw for five minutes or more." So that's what I did. And so far, fingers & toes crossed, things have been good. Some people say they didn't calibrate their saws and they've worked well without it. But you may aswell calibrate it, what have you got to lose?

I reckon if you've lost confidence in the product, your mind will be constantly on, 'When is it going to break next?' and not on the job. Is a saw worth that amount of worry? If it is, keep it. If not, time to cut and run. The manual says to calibrate the 'AutoTune', one has to, "Accelerate the engine to full throttle and saw a number of cuts in a thick log (3-5 min.) The chain saw must be run (8,000 - 12,000 rpm) the entire time so that the carburettor can adjust itself." Now if that's not vague, please tell me what is. I've asked the question before, is it 3-5 cuts or 3-5 minutes... But let's not dwell on that now. Quick question here: Why aren't these saws sold with a tacho or can people tell when a saw is going 8,000-12,000rpm? When I read through the manual, I then contacted the dealer, who said you just need to do it the once and, "We just say, to work the saw for five minutes or more." So I that's what I did. And so far, fingers & toes crossed, things have been good. But getting back to it. If you're going to sell it as a new saw, it matters not one jot if the saw gets calibrated or not. But if you do calibrate it in the prescribed manner, you'll have to clean it before the sale. If on the other hand you're going to keep it. You may aswell calibrate it, what have you got to lose?

Stated model fit: 435, 440, 450, 555, 556, 560XP, 562XP, T536 LiXP, 536 LiXP, 436 LiXP ... so not for you - nor I.

Happen to be in the area Sept. the high-sided Transit trucks are everywhere. Some with associates riding in the open backs, looking over walls/fences. Also seen a number of different but similar trucks, "Tree Services" and or "Landscaping" emblazoned across their sides; but with no phone numbers and in one instance, no reg. plates. There's also a lot of tatty horse-boxes in the area and cobs being fly-grazed. For those not in the area, near Merthyr and around Tredegar, Ebbw Vale and on toward Brynmawr, there are major roadworks. These will be in place for the next 1-2 years. There's more plant, large & small than you could shake a rebar at. So also plenty of 'opportunity' minded folk in the area too.

I stand corrected. Just ignore me while I stand in the corner, painting a 'D' on my lid. Don't know the 362, (obviously). But the 261 - yes heavy; found handles too close together for weight.

That'll coat & reseal the puppy.

Posted by 18 stoner Well for a start I'd avoid the 261, and the 362 for that too. Posted by SawTroll Yes, they are rather heavy and bulky 1. generation "strato" saws, and on top of that the handling is adversely affected by the inboard clutch design! Slow trigger response as well... Umm. Neither the MS 261 nor the 362XP are Strato/AutoTune saws.

Some recent ads for various street-sweeping jobs: Employer: Cambridge City Council Salary £19,317 - £22,443 pa, pro rata, (Worked out to gross hourly rate = £11.79 to £13.70.) Reference ENV159.14 Location: Cambridge 31.5 hrs per week /4 on 4 off shift Closing Date 26 September 2013 HGV 2 Sweeper Driver Location: Sittingbourne, Kent Salary: £8.25 per hour gross Job Type: Full-Time on Contract, Sat & Sun driving, plus three weekdays pedestrian litter picking. Posted: Friday 30th August 2013 Job ID: 3023452 Location_Woodbridge, Suffolk Real estate & property management, (actual work is pedestrian litter picking & emptying dog bins) Full time Salary: Exceeds national min. wage (Yeah, but by how much one wonders.) Posted: 13/08/2013 (And this one wants a CV with covering letter.)

Considering he hasn't the experience and may, (it seems) remain that way. Also, considering he would have got PPE paid for by the company, I don't think it an unreasonable starting wage. If he comes back next month asking for work. Would you be willing to negotiate, knowing you then have him over a barrel.