Treeation

Hen of the woods Grifola fondosa

Cheers nice one! Always good to see a new technique working well!

Thats a good point Gary

Hi joe, I think 10% is totally reasonable.....if they dont go for it then there not going to be able to undertake the work as you have already said as they dont have the kit or resources. I think its a case of they can like it lump it!

Great vid....really liked the controlled fell of stem at 3.15...never used the technique before - can you expain what you used to pull over the stem and what the lowering rope was attached to give the controlled descent of the stem?

Looking in amazing condition! Very tasty!

chicken of the woods Laetiporus sulphureus

Looks like a cracked bolete to me

I use to practice in the woods on big beech trees when I was starting out...no bother there. I cant imagine you getting nicked for climbing trees in a park, maybe told to leave by the park warden but not nicked

Although, just reread your post and seems unlikely that squirrel damage would run the entire length of branches....imo

old squirrel damage possibly, when oak bark is thinner in younger age oak is quite vulnerable to stripping from squirrels and subsuquent decay. Also makes sense as the damage is on the upper side of branches which is easy game for squirrels

seems to good tobe true! Why would anyone sell brandnew 550xp for so cheap?

Turkish hazel Corylus colurna

Thanks!

Forgive my ignorance what does pt mean? and where in gloucs are you?

Why dont you just top the tree to the height of crown break....good chance it will come back well being oak and you can cut regrowth on a 5-10year cycle...then no need to replace

no worries none taken

But if tree owner is willing to invest as he wants to keep the tree then cant see a problem with that as long as he is aware of the ongoing costs

Cool, whats would be the reason you think it woud be better out of interest?

My thoughts would be that the removal of the outer, overhanging branches have now exposed the shade leaves (in the interior crown|) to direct full sun that may well be the cause to the browning off, as they have not adapted to take the full sun. Any further pruning works would be best in winter or when in a non drought summer. Bear in mind that this a young copper beech which has the potential to grow four times the size, It might be more preferable to raise the crown (which will allow light to the ground floor level. This could be repeated in 5-10 years or so (a few metres every time - maybe 2m above fence level to start with and then to gutter level the second time) which will push the crown higher up. Crown reductions rarely increase much light penetration....and once initatied you will be repeating reductions every 5 or so years which will be quite a cost to bear for no real gain. You could also include a light crown thin too which would involve taking say 10% if the crown out in a systematic fashion as the same time as crown raising to allow a bit more light through but you shouldnt prune too heavy on beech as the the bark is sensitive to sun scorch.

When you say "certified arborist" are you refering to the ISA certified arborist? or just NPTC climbing/cs qualified?

The chipper is chained to the truck & the truck has an immobiliser with the chip in the key. Fair enough, I do have a wheel clamp but hardly ever use it on site...tbh most of the time I would have chipper in sight or if not sight will be blocked in by vehicle where possible, if it cant be blocked and I cant see it then I would clamp it.

Doesnt sound unreasonable to me...otherwise an opportunist can easily lift it off hitch and off they go...

Looks like standard whitebeam to me Sorbus aria

Straight through planning portal is quicker and easier than completing forms and sending directly to LA.